Precise1

No harm in that, thanks. Unfortunately I don't think I have any high tech audio recording devices... B

Here is a link with information on Rough Country UCA parts http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23006&view=&hl=Rough+County&fromsearch=1 B

Good, that is all that I want myself. What type of muffler did you have installed?? B

Well, I made the appointment to have my muffler changed to a Flowmaster 60 series Delta Flow. This one is specified for smaller 4cyl and 6cyl engines. I didn't find this video until after the arrangements. Tell me it is just the Miata that makes it sound like that!! http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/index.php?cat=1 Should I make it a 50 series Delta Flow?? (second doubts) I am more interested in performance than noise (less is better) and a deeper sound rather than fart can for what noise there is. I'm thinking the v6 should make a different pitch?? The current Magnaflow I have installed is fine on the low end, but mid to upper rpm is very loud and has a medium (sound that m, make it resonant and that's the tone) pitch. I think I need a little more back pressure too, there is a slight hesitation. I really dislike it and it has to go but think I may have been to conservative with choosing the new one. Help me out with your experiences please. I'll have to make a call first thing in the morning... B

I have to agree with the smaller piping. My 3.0 liter stock diameter was 1.75, the Thorleys I just installed are 2.25" into a 2.0" magnaflow cat, then back to 2.25" through a magnaflow muffler and out the end. This is for all 6 cylinders, not 3!! 1.75-2.0" each seems plenty large... One other note, my set up is fairly loud at 2500-3000 rpm and sounds suspiciously fart cannish. I'm going to talk to th exhaust shop in the next few days to get their input, but I'll probably go with something like the Flowmaster Quiet series, or something. B

If you don't really go wheeling, then I'd say you are probably ok with the stock autolockers. My next choice would be the Warn and bypass the Mile Markers. Why pay 3/4 the priice for a weaker product. B

Well, it depends what, of course. I wouldn't consider the X a serious towing vehicle though. That is what you are asking?? B

I'm pretty sure the 300zx had different heads, but I'll wait for someone who is sure of their information. B

Good, that's what I assumed... B

Here is a link... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24592 B

Another one I just remembered from k9sar is checking the resistance of the O2 sensor, 1-1000 Ohms IIRC?? Feel free to correct... B Confirmed!!

This is for the coolant temp sensor for the ECU on a WD21. Just trying to get some information all in one place, feel free to quote or copy in anything pertinent. B

I am assuming you ran the ECU for problem codes already. Does it miss all the time or just under load? Have you checked the temperature sensor for the ECU yet? There is a thread about it, let me look... B

Yes, the reprogrammed ECU gets you some gains, but it is normally done in conjunction with intake/cam/exhaust work. I'd expect a drop in mileage and you may have problems with smog tests... B

Jim Wolf has cams, another source I can't think of right now, and I believe a couple of people have taken the stock cams in to be reground at custom shops... I don't know about the 300zx cams... B

Ok, it looks like you are averaging less than 13 MPG. Depending on all the factors, you should be able to get between 15-20 MPG. I have never put more than 18 gallons in either of my pathy tanks in 5 years, it is usually more like 16 gallons. The gauges seem to read low for some reason. I generally try to fill up at 1/4 tank so I just ignore it regardless. As for your milage, could anything be dragging? Brakes or U joints? When is the last time a full tune up was done? Could you have a fuel leak? Does the truck run rich? Have you cleaned the MAF sensor? Have you checked the O2 sensor (the resistance should be 1-1000 ohms IIRC). There was a thread about checking the temperature sensor for the ECU recently. That should be enough for now... B

Can you take some measurements?? Over all length, spring diameter, coil diameter and # of coils? That would allow for a more accurate answer... B

Yes, you have to modify things for the seats and there is a metal piece around the base of the shifter boot with bolts through it under the carpet. It can be a PITA sometimes. B

Yes, you can put the rear axle on jack stands also (but I'd definitely leave the floor jack in place and tensioned just in case), but I have decent and tall jack stands and really prefer to use them on the frame. I have never had a problem like that and I'm a big proponent of safe not sorry. You are welcome PATHRIDER... B

As for filling, some people have luck just tipping the truck over a bit (a lot). The shifter boot can be a pita; that is the way I did it but I changed the clutch at the same time. B

Ok, first off, this TSB is for 87-95 models and your info shows you drive a 96... I thought they fixed the issue with the R50s?? Anyone with an R50, what does your manual say is the correct MT fill amount?? Second, the TSB says 5.1 LITERS is the specified corrected amount, not pints!! Bit of a difference there, eh? Third, I'd really trust the Nissan supplied information over any other, including Chiltons, Hayes and especially Amsol, Penzoil, etc... B

Damn!! If you didn't crank it much, there is a chance not much damage occurred. Maybe the belt jumped a few teeth? Unless you are positive things are mangled you might want to replace the belt then try to fire it up/do a compression check first, it's not much wasted work if you have to pull the heads and you might get lucky... Good luck!! B Yes, cams are available but can be a problem if the vehicle needs smog testing so stay with a very mild one if that is the case.

If you are using the bottle jack, I would do one side at a time (the jack pad has an axle groove in it) and set the frame down on a jack stand. Do this on the other side also, but I usually leave the jack in position and lightly tensioned for easy lowering when I'm done. This is after blocking the front wheels (both) front and rear. It is the safe and proper way to do it and as long as you are on a fairly level cement surface, you will have no problems. B

I asked about the cold weather effect and people who live in miserable places (in the winter) like Simon and GG say that they have no problem driving in the snow/frozen conditions. I'd try the aftermarket cooler solo first, you can always include the radiator cooler later. I understand that Nissan D automatic tranny fluid makes shifting smoother, and here is my solution to some of the issues... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24503 B

Damn, now we will never know what worked!! Glad you got are getting the part regardless... B