Precise1

Yes, I think you are correct... I have a spare if you can't find one locally. B

Isn't the difference the VG33 engine VS the VQ3.5 or whatever?? I imagine the trannys are probably different also?? B

Cap and rotor/timing Air & fuel filter Check vacuum lines for cracks/leaks and replace where appropriate. Clean MAF Change all fluids if they haven't been changed as per service intervals Snug valve covers and oil pans The most important one, timing belt. When was it last changed? With your truck, the interval is every 60,000 miles so it should be about time to do the 3rd belt change. It is a bit of work and you can just change the belt ($40) but don't let it go, it is one thing that can destroy the motor. That should keep you busy for a bit... B

How do you 'bump' a pinned thread?? B

You guys related?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24743 B

Remove distributor cap and spray briefly inside and on rotor with WD-40. Replace cap and see if it starts/runs normal. Also, start it when it is dark with no lights on and see if you can see any arcing under the hood, reving it by hand. B

My 95 will illuminate an 'OD Off' light on the dash. Change the settings at about 40 mph level and it will become quite apparent. With the larger and wider tires I'm wondering if the OD isn't kicking in due to load. I know my tranny has some odd shift points and under some circumstances will want to run at over 3000 rpm without shifting. Redline is 5500 so it still only 55%... B

No, it is because we are afraid that if Nunya starts sitting on the wrong side of the truck, he'll start driving on the wrong side of the road... B

The Yakima or Thule mounts are by the doors (I don't own one so I can't be more specific) and have a considerably higher payload than the factory roof rack that just lays on the sheet metal. You probably want to copy that mounting system, not to mention it should be easily removable then. I understand you are having it fabbed, I just figured you could use the aftermarket types as a design reference. B

Didn't we just have a thread on RPM/speed? What sized tires do you have? You have overdrive turned on? Does your overdrive function? Like Kingman said, what is the condition of your tranny fluid? B

What do you plan to use the rack for most of the time and does your keyboard have a <shift> or <.> button? Yakima and Thule are two of th choices I know of off hand but I recall someone using an 'off brand' that worked well for them. B

Yep... I'm wondering how a 3.0 built with 3.3 heads and a mild cam would respond to the TBI set up? Should be pretty cheap and easy and pretty peppy with headers and an intake... B

Maybe I'm not seeing it well in the picture, but yeah, that's the most grease you could want there. Go out in the dirt somewhere and test out the 4x4. If they work, leave them alone... B

The cat is there for a reason, leave it on. And please, remove your rear window tint... (pet peeve) B

Lets see... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24075&view=&hl=filter+relocation&fromsearch=1 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20577&view=&hl=filter+relocation&fromsearch=1 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20639&view=&hl=filter+relocation&fromsearch=1 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17683&view=&hl=filter+relocation&fromsearch=1 Search is a wonderful thing... B

All good advice so far. The housing set up is different for manual and auto trannys but I don't know if the lock cylinder is any different. Just keep it in mind if you swap out from another truck. B

I just removed mine out of the parts truck and it was pretty simple and straight forward. I can't think of any warnings other than have a catch pan and plenty of rags handy and if you live in the rust belt, pre-soak the bolts with penetrant. B

That seems to be an excess of grease on the hub components, they still work reliably like that?? B

I think they are used in addition to, figuring that it is really the highest solid point to tie into. The problem is that there is no frame 'near the top' and no good way to get to it. Looking at my ARB mounted, I see how the design reduces clearance and approach angle. I think a square tubing style like GG's could be done rock solid, bolting to the frame underneath and at the stock points... B

Gurgling is not normal, I'm sure of that. Time to check the hoses and canister for leaks and such... B

Disconnect the battery first, other than that it is pretty straight forward. Not a lot of room and I seem to remember using a ratchet wrench or socket for something or it would have taken a long time... B

Carbon canister for emissions, I'm pretty sure. I have a 95 so I don't know if our units are the same. There shouldn't be any liquid in it. What kind of liquid is it?? At least drain, if not replace it. Are you sur the vacuum diaphram is finctioning correctly?? Maybe that is responsible?? B

Ask what the ID is, and measure what you have before hand. I can dig for the set I changed on my 95 a year ago and measure them... B

Yes, that is one issue I was alluding to. Calipers are the best way but cross referencing numbers can also give info. Hell, you could probably eyeball the difference... Sorry, but it sounds the the bearings you have are wrong with too small of an ID. Research before you remove them though... B

Does the ID of the rear bearing slip tightly into the spindle until it buts up to the end? Try it without the rotor and hub, just the bearing ID. B