Precise1

Yep, that's what I was talking about bolting the box down to. Might be a good idea to get the biggest fender washers you can find on all the bolts though, even better some sheet metal plates... B

1) Clearing the codes in the ECU is all there is. Sounds like you might still have some issues?? No, the Pathys don't have a huge amount of power, but they certainly can get out of their own way. 2) MaritimeMan had disconnected his knock sensor and installed a new one on the bellhousing. It seemed to work fine... Check the MAF, TPS first, clear the codes, check the crank angle sensor and worry about the knock sensor last as having an engine knock will trip the sensor. B

Agreed, although what helped him straighten out was that he clipped the side of the car behind the semi enough to stop the slide. Watch it closely. Unfortunately, that made the car go into a slide... Well, at least only one person died and that must have been quick. Be careful everyone!! B

Ahh, maybe the type of RTV is better or something. I've never had luck unless I could clean everything very well; any oil and it wouldn't bond. B

Stop with the arguements. Thanks. Things go flying when vehicles impact at that speed. It looks exactly as I expect, all the way to the cab hopping up (only place it can go) and hooking to the left setting up for a big, long jack knife. As I said in the PoHo where it was posted, that accident isn't over yet and I feel really bad for everyone involved. B

Who you calling a Bag?? Nope, I have room but no message. That Dowser, he hasn't been the same since he stopped speaking in colors... B

Ok, no problem. I wasn't trying to be snarky, I didn't understand that you didn't understand, the link that is... B

I'm sorry, I read MT but had an AT picture stuck in my head. Yes, I used plumbers tape, about 2.5 windings opposite threading direction so it doesn't come off. No leak problems. Derek, you have luck with RTV on oily threads? How do you clean them well enough? What brand/kind? B

^ That! Download the FSM from the Garage section, it has a decent diagnostic section, but honestly, that doesn't sound good. B

I would use a washer, malleable metal, metal and rubber or plastic in that order. Unscrew it enough to measure the major diameter and go buy the appropriate item. Tube sealant won't work and I doubt teflon tape will also. B

You didn't read the link, did you? The pre 1995 Nissan manual tranny wants 5.1 liters of GL-4 ONLY (Redline MT-90 is a good substitute). Lucas is ok for the gear boxes and you 'overfill' through the shifter hole. B

Yep, I'm pretty sure that's what it is too. Some people have gotten lucky with a fluid replacement/overfill. The whining can lessen or not get worse if caught in time. B

Sorry, I do not know, it is the first I have seen of that edition. Try it with 8" rims and 4" backspacing. B

Looks good, but needs fender flares IMHO. B

Could it be Canadianese for Special Edition?? I know the Canuks had a Chilkoot edition for the R50, so it might be that stickers make them happy. VTEK!! B

First, go to the Garage section and download the FSM from the pinned thread. Next, check the ECU for codes (write up in the Garage/How To section). Third, check for vacuum leaks with an aerosol spray (wd40, brake cleaner, etc) What did you find? B

If you need a snow plow, move!! B

Could the chime be a seat belt sensor? Condensation from the exhaust. Not a big deal, mine positively drools... Yep, if it is the first few moments of running it is almost certainly the lifters. An engine flush and the right oil might improve it, but some of them do it no matter what. I wouldn't be concerned unless the duration noticibly increases. B

Wow, the splines stripped? I wonder if the splines were properly engaged. Can you tell if the failed adjuster splines are stripped for the length of the splines or just part of it? I seem to recall that everything has to be seated properly to get everything to line up though (been a while). Perhaps it was just a fatigued part... Regardless, you shouldn't have to worry about it happening again. B

Update!! This 1996 R50 appears to have the required crenelations to run auto locking hubs, when my wife's 1999.0 R50 does not. Perhaps it will work without modification on the first few years (96 & 97?) or R50? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32685 B

Update!! This 1996 R50 appears to have the required crenelations to run auto locking hubs, when my wife's 1999.0 R50 does not. Perhaps it will work without modification on the first few years (96 & 97?) of R50? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32685 B

Yeah, I had the same idea between our WD21 and R50. Unfortunately, direct bolt on fit is a no go. IIRC, on the WD21 spindle nose there is a slot (or crenelation) through it that some tabs in the auto hubs slot into. The spindle nose on the R50 do not have this feature so the hubs can not be seated properly and wouldn't have a flange kept captive which I can only imagine is important to the functioning of the auto hubs. The good news is that the feature can be ground into the R50 spindle nose. It would be easiest removing the part and using a machine tool, but I recall thinking that it wouldn't be all that difficult using an angle grinder and a dremel if you have patience and a steady hand. You would want a thread file to clean up the threads too. Let me see if I can dig up the pictures took, it was a while ago... Bingo!! Yeah, I had it right... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25526&st=0&p=469298&hl=hubs&fromsearch=1entry469298 B

That is more than I would have thought from what was initially indicated also, but from working in an injection molding facility (albiet a bit more high tech than gauge pods) A minimum $1000 order to make the mold and 20+ parts is probably more of low profit/investment scenario for them. I am more disappointed that they can only fit 2 gauges though. Still, that's 2 less I have to mount elsewhere. I'm still in... That makes sense, and I agree. I have no issue cutting my own and not all WD21's came with them... So, I some questions now: Will the parts be 'off the shelf' orderable once the mold is made or will there be minimum order quantities for a run? Will future units be $50 also? How do they gaurentee fitment and quality? For $50+painting and shipping sight unseen, now I expect a quality part with perfect fit & color match. I guess I should go to their site and check reviews... B

What part of the adjuster mechanism failed? It could be that the higher spring rate fatigued the 17 year old adjusting bolt? I can say this isn't a normal occurance. Is there any significant rust on your vehicle? B

That's 4 and the last. I'll clean up the thread once the staff reviews it. B