vengeful

OK guys...this is not a discussion about the search function. This is a discussion about performance increasing modification options for the Pathfinder. Keep it on topic. If you want to discuss the search function, there's a thread for that.

Part number is: 39253-88G10. 2 are required per vehicle. Might as well buy and replace both. They're $3.94 from http://www.nissanparts.cc

Wheel bearings *should* be repacked any time you drive through deep water, or deep mud. In reality, every couple of times is fine. http://sadik.net/nissan/howto/rotor.htm - This covers brake rotor replacement as well as wheel bearing replacement/repacking on a 92 Pathfinder.

Every little bit helps, but you have to ask yourself, would you rather do it cheap, now....or right, later? Remember though, if you get that one, and install it, and it doesn't perform to your satisfaction (which at a 60lbs break force, it won't do any good if you lift a tire, well, any LSD will be pretty much negated if you lift a tire), and you decide to go with the one AC sells, you're going to have to go back in and do all the work over again.

You won't have to remove them, but some trimming might be necessary. Don't go buck wild with the razor just yet though, wait until you get the tires on and see if it's even necessary. http://findapath.niora4x4club.com/az6 <-- Click here for a bunch of AZ Pics

Yes, even if you go with used parts, do both, then you'll still have even braking....hopefully.

Ah....forgot you have an 01. oops. But yeah, $72 is the cheapest you're going to find them anywhere. AC has them for $79, but TireRack will be cheaper and shorter on shipping cost and time.

Yes, if you replace one caliper, you should replace both. And at the same time, you should flush out all the old brake fluid. And, if you're going through all that trouble, might as well put new pads on there unless they're relatively new.

Is it just one of the pistons, or both?

Go with TireRack. KYB GR-2s for $69. They also have the KYB strut mounts for about $40-50.

Yes, they will stick out. And if they stick out far enough, it may rub slightly at the forward edge of the wheelwell while turning in reverse.

Oh yeah, definitely, there's a ton. But, I hate to toss out a perfectly good cable. They're very hard sells on eBay, too, since everyone is buying synthetic rope and trying to sell the steel cable on eBay. Which is why I figure I'll use the steel cable for a while and then get the synthetic.

Synthetic rope is expensive though. When I get my winch, I'll run the steel cable until I feel it is necessary to replace it, and at which point, I'll get synthetic. And besides....that roller fairlead looks so much cooler stickin out of the bumper...

It's probably just dirt that has worked its way in there over the years and jamming up the caliper. I had that problem on my front end. I took the calipers apart, sprayed them out with some Brake Cleaner and compressed air, and they work great now. As long as it's not totally siezed, you can clean it out and rebuild it. But, be sure to get new seals and such for it.

I can get it when I run home for lunch in about an hour and a half for ya.

FYI, Nissans were designed to have a slight positive rake (or slightly nose down). The handling characteristics of them suffer when they are level or have a negative rake (nose up). If it's only 1/2" from level, I'd leave it be. It's going to be way too much work to be worth another 1/2"

FYI, some of them are back-ordered to 6/2 now. They're really selling like crazy!! The integrated 10k and the 9k are available, but the 10k is backordered.

GIMME GIMME GIMME! I want! Will these dimensions work? 21.15 inches length x 6.3 inches width x 8.6 inches height.

When is it ever a yes??? If you have a CarQuest near you, you can get a remanufactured one for $63.

They're all pretty much the same. You can get a good one at Advance/Checker/Shucks/etc. That's where I got mine, cost me all of $45. Cheap compared to the cost of a new/rebuilt transmission! Oh yeah!....when you're installing the cooler, it would be convenient to do a Drain-Fill on your transmission at the same time, since you'll be losing some fluid anyways....don't forget to buy tranny fluid before you start like me!

To add to what 98silver said, 3M makes a polymer coating that is invisible that is supposed to protect against rock chips from small rocks getting thrown up into your paint. It's extremely expensive, but if you're concerned with your paint, then it might be worth it. Personally, I've got so many pinstripes/pinestripes/desert stripes and scratches on my truck, I just don't care....I like them....they're battle scars, I wear em with pride. Speaking of which...I've been meaning to get a sticker made: "Those ain't scratches, they're battle scars!"

You can fit the 31x10.50x15 ATs on your stock rims just fine. As long as you get the 4.5" backspacing on the wheels, you'll be fine.

Ok...All OT posts in this thread have been deleted. Keep it On Topic and refrain from personal attacks. We're not NOR or XOC, we're better than that. OK, so a question has been covered before. Who cares? You're not Brent, thankfully! Instead of posting "Use the search function! n00b!" Try posting a link to a related thread. We are here to help and educate, as well as have our problems fixed. Let's do that.

If touching the brakes makes any change in the noise, it's brake related. It's possible your brakes are worn out and in need of replacement.

At 60ft/lbs breakaway force, there won't be a whole lot of resistance there.... However, you can get THIS BAD BOY and have the same specs as your rear LSD up front, and that will make a world of difference. I'll be getting the R50 version when I get my locker. sssh