vengeful

As a spinoff from Dean's Rear Bumper Thread, where the KMA Wincher's were mentioned, I had been asked to post details and pictures of the bumpers. Here is what I know and I'll provide some pictures as well. Winch Options/Questions: KMA says that the bumper will have no problem holding up to a 10,000lb winch, but is concerned about the Unibody structure with such a powerful winch. They recommend using a 9,000lb winch. They state that an integrated solenoid winch, such as the Warn XD9000i or the Warn 9.5Ti Thermometric, can be used with, or without, the light bar and grille and light guard options. They state that the bumper can hold any winch as long as it is under 8" deep. The bumpers do not come pre-drilled for your winch. However, if you know what winch you are using, and you have the dimensions, hole patterns, they can drill it. Lighting: The recessed off-road lights ($115 option) can come in either a 5" Round or a 3.5" round. Yes, the lights and pigtails are included. If you want to mount lights on top of the bumper, you need to get the Light Bar ($45 Option) as the top is open to allow for easy winch access, use of an integrated solenoid winch, and the ability to use a winch cover in the winter. You can use the Light Bar with any winch. The Recessed Lights and the Light Bar are the only recommended lighting options. (Key word, recommended. ) Upgraded LED Turn Signals are available. ($40 Option) Specs: The bumper will weigh anywhere from 115lbs to 140lbs depending on options. Use this weight for freight calculations. They will be coming from Douglasville, GA 30134, USA. As an example: Freight shipping to Arlington, Virginia (near Washington, DC) Commercial Address - $126 Terminal in Alexandria - $195 Residential Address - $351 Terminal in Salt Lake City, UT - $175 It is constructed out of 3/16" Steel with 1/4" Steel mounting brackets and Winch Plate. Incandescent turn signals are included. Can be upgraded to LEDs. Mounting and Installation: Now, here's the question you're all asking. "Is this a bolt-on bumper?" No. It is not a directly bolt-on operation. You need to modify the frame extensions in the front to bolt it on. It DOES bolt to the truck instead of weld though. This is what the stock frame extention looks like, before modification. That piece is unbolted and the projection trimmed off. Also, the outside part is trimmed down to access the mounting surface. This picture shows the modified frame extension, and is ready to have the bumper mounted. Another view. You can see that the two holes that will be used have been enlarged to allow the use of larger, stronger bolts. The washer fluid bottle is removed in that picture. KMA recommends removing it for easier access while installing the bumper. Here you can see the bumper mounted with the two holes shown in the above picture. You can also see the third mounting hole. This one gets drilled into the frame. Here you can see the third hole drilled and the bolt installed. Finished Product! Pricing Information: Base Model Wincher in satin black - $465 Options: Grill Guard $85 Light Guards $55 D rings or shackle mounts $40 pair Receiver installed on winch bumper - $60 Upgrade turn signals to LEDs - $40 Recessed 5" 55watt off road lights - $115 Light Bar - $45 Optional Finishes: Gloss Black - $25 Aluminum/Silver-Brite - $45 Spray on bed liner - $100 (black, red, grey, green yellow, blue) Custom colours - please contact office Direct Link to KMA's Page about these bumpers. Link to Main KMA Webpage Note: All images contained within this post are the property of the poster and/or Kennesaw Mountain Accessories and are not to be re-posted without express written consent of the original poster.

The only difference is the plastic bumper skin. The structural bumpers are the same, and the structural mounting is the same.

Well, I wasn't going to say it, but I'm glad you mentioned it Max...LOL

Update: I've replaced the fuel filter and I've done the electrical diagnosis on the O2 sensor and the IACV Valve. The O2 sensor is functioning properly...crap. The IACV Valve circuit is OK, meaning the IACV Valve itself is at fault, whether it's simply gummed up, or it's broken is left to be determined. I did a scan on the DTCs and came up with the following list: P0505 P0325 P0505 Pending P0325 Pending P0158 P0159 P0440 P1448 Now the EVAP Vent Control Valve is stuck open, and the EVAP System has Negative Pressure. I have all new EVAP parts, Canister and the two valves that go by the Canister, as well as the O-Ring seals and what not. I'm waiting on the bolts and mounting hardware to arrive before I tackle it, because the bolts on there now are severely rusted and will probably just break when I try to take them out. I've been spraying them with loads of PB Blaster in hopes that I can get them out whole, but I'm skeptical. The continued O2 sensor codes lead me to believe that the problem is either a fouled injector or an intake air leak. I'd almost prefer a leaky intake gasket to a fouled injector. I've erased the codes, and we'll see what comes back in the next couple days.

Yes. They've got a frame that is almost identical to the older IFS trucks with a box. They almost always use the older IFS rig steering box when they SAS. Now, just to give you a little bit of confidence.... Yup, that's a Kia Sportage. He goes by Kia Dave in his local San Antonio wheeling circle. I go to school in NY with a guy who wheels with him. Crazy sh1t man....

That's exactly what I'm saying. You'd basically have to re-fabricate the front subframe in order for it to work, and then you could get started on worrying about the axle and suspension. And if you're doing coilovers, you need to worry about where to put the links, too. And then you've got to worry about steering. You can't use R&P on an SFA rig. Where are you going to mount the steering box, what are you going to use for steering? Etc. I think Steering would be the biggest obstacle to overcome since there really isn't anywhere to conveniently mount a steering box. Granted, there is an "easy" way to do it....Strip the under side of the R50, and mount the body on a 77-84 Big Bronco chassis. It'll match up almost perfectly. Wheelbase is only 1" off, and the track is about 4-6" wider on the big Bronco than the R50. You could then use the Big Bronco chassis, and drop in any motor and axle combo you want. I think a 383, 700R4, NP205 w/ NP203 doubler and 35 Spline D60HDs would be a nice combination, but that's just me....

That's just the thing Tyler. It's not the fact that it's unibody, its the way it was constructed. The XJs have more of a truck suspension than the R50s. The front end of the R50 is basically taken directly from a passenger car, as opposed to an SUV.

You'd also be smart to download the PDF of the Factory Service manual. I'll PM you the link.

Ohhhh, say it aint so! You were using the ARB to air up your tires!? Jeez man, that must've taken all freakin day! Those little ARBs, while extremely reliable, are painfully slow when you need a high volume of air. Once you get that Superflow hooked up, let me know how you like it. I'm looking to add a small compressor for when I get my Air Locker, since I don't want to run it off the CO2 and have to get another regulator, manifold and all that stuff...and at $75, that price is very right.

Which will be long after all of us are dead! So, its not our concern. Speaking of irrepairable damage....have you gotten that front locker in yet?

Copied that post into the How-To Carri, Dean, Radar....

Note: This was originally posted by our own Dean (XplorX4) in the R50 section. I have copied it here for ease of future reference. Thanks again Dean, you're the best! - V First, remove the hubs. this link up to photo 8, then see the photos in this link. The link above shows photos of how to replace the wheel hub, but the steps to replace the hub or the brake rotor are identical, since they need to be separated from each other. The main difference is that you don't need to replace the ABS toner ring or the wheel bearings, but they should be repacked with fresh grease, and you will need to replace the inner bearing grease seals, too. EDIT: I just realized there are few missing steps. In order to remove the outer bearing you need to remove the bearing retaining washer, and the locknut. The 2 Phillips-head screws holding it in place are very soft. If you do not use the properly-sized driver on them, you will strip the heads. It helps to push on the screw firmly while you remove it, so that the screwdriver remains firmly seated in the screwhead. To remove the locknut, you can loosen it by inserting a punch (I used a screwdriver) into one of the holes on it and tapping on the punch to force the nut to rotate. Repacking the bearings is also not covered in my photos. Here's a writeup for bearing repacking on an Xterra, which is the same procedure as for the Pathy. However, do not remove the inner seal as shown there. Instead, use this method. (Be sure to use a non-metallic instrument to tap out the seal and inner bearing.)

It seems that a lot of people wait on Keith to do something first to see if it'll work. LOL.

Yes, PB Blaster is the best penetrant you can buy. Don't be fooled by the other crap on the shelves. There are special tools available, however, I just used the screwdriver technique.

When you're doing less than 90mph, it's actually pretty common if you're truck is stock and working properly. With the lift, 32s and my roof rack, I regularly get 17mpg highway at ~70-75mph.

Keith is working on one, slowly.

Wheel bearings, rotors and such are NOT an enjoyable job. It's messy, tedious and a pain in the ass. Hope you have air and plenty of PB Blaster.

My T-belt wasn't that bad....I can think of about 100 things I would rather have been doing, but I can think of a lot more that I would rather do the T-belt!

Damn you Carri!

Tips: Just be patient. Getting those dat blasted dust caps off is a pain in the rear. Once you get those off, it's smooth sailing. Be sure you replace the studs for the hubs though. It's not very hard, but it can be frustrating. Take your time. Here's a link to a bunch of pics: http://xplorx4.com/pathfinder/upgrades/warnhubs/

I'll give it another go or two tonight....

If I included both iterations of the WD, I had to include both iterations of th R50...stfu!

Wow, this is my 9,000th post, too! -bounce-

Hmm...Fireworks sucks for this kind of thing...but I'll give it a go.

Right Click - View Image.