vengeful

Tire Rack sells a KYB Brand OE Replacement Strut Mount for $49.95 as well. Shipping from them is REALLY fast, too. I ordered my parts at 8:00AM Local Time on a Tuesday, and they were delivered at 5:30 on Wednesday.

You don't have Auto Hubs. Heck, you don't even have Hubs. R50s are equipped with full-time drive flanges. The front driveline is never disconnected, like on the Automatic Hub equipped WD21s, and is always spinning with the wheels.

Do you have any Trouble Codes?

Did you investigate 88's suggestion? I don't have a clue. I'd think the Coil Transistor would be a good place to start.

Tire Rack carries the KYB at $70 each and AC sells them for $80. How many miles do you have on your struts? I suggest replacing them if they're not very new to save on labor. Also, you will definitely want to replace the strut bearings, and probably the strut mounts as well. Edit: Wow, that was wierd, Dean and I made nearly the same post at the same time....

Sometimes I get some crust buildup on the end of them, but I just give it a quick kick with my boots and it comes off and I can lock/unlock them. Usually, in winter, I'll lock then at the first substantial snowfall, and leave them locked until it starts to thaw, because there is always ice on the roads, and it's nice to be able to just jam it into 4wd if needed.

I haven't had mine for nearly 2 years. I'm glad I got rid of it. I had a bit of minor bump steer with the 32s and the sway bar, but when I took it off, it all went away. The ride is much better, and bumps aren't nearly as 'jarring.' I haven't noticed any ill-effects. Inspection station didn't notice, or didn't mention it last time I got it inspected. When I went to get my truck inspected at the Nissan Dealer to figure out what was wrong with it, they put that I needed a new front sway bar because it was missing. I told them I had one, and that I had no intention of reinstalling it. They tried to convince me that the sway bar held the truck together and it would fall apart without it. I laughed at the guy's ignorance and left. Yay for dealership free inspections! Saved me a ton of time of trying to figure out for myself what was wrong, and they even gave me a nice print-out of all the parts they thought I should replace (even the timing belt), which I told them I had replaced 1,500 miles before I brought it in....morons.

Exactly. With the swaybar, you get absolutely NO articulation, though travel is fine. Without the swaybar, the wheels are able to move independently, and can articulate through the full range of travel.

Mile Marker are junk. There's a reason nobody uses them.

The bottom part of that bumper is going to rub. Mine did with 32s.

He's not in Arizona, I'm in Arizona. He's in Manitoba, Canada.

I believe in directness. Short, to the point, posts that answer the question in easy to understand terms are much more helpful than long drawn out posts. '

No. It doesnt have one.

Draw a thick line of chalk across the tread of your tires, drive for about 3-4 tire revolutions and you can judge how you need to adjust your tire pressure by how the chalk rubs off. If it rubs off in the middle, you're over-inflated. If it rubs off on the shoulders of the tread, you're under-inflated. If it rubs off evenly, you're just right! It's like Goldilocks and the Three Bears.

No, the CV axle does not have any effect on suspension or handling (except in instances where you'll need 4WD).

The Amplifier Bypass Harness thing that Crutchfield sells is NOT necessary if you're only upgrading the head unit. You still need an adapter harness to adapt the factory harness to your head unit though.

You can get locks for them for about $10-15. They're basically there in order to hold up a hatch that's shocks have worn out and are no longer readily available.

They are mistaken. You do not need that, you just need the basic harness adapter.

I have the factory wiring diagram somewhere. The actuator grounds through the hatch, so you only have to run one wire from either a switched 12V source or the battery (with a 15A fuse of course) into a momentary switch wherever you want it, and then to the actuator in the hatch. Though, this will only release it, it won't shoot open unless you get some kind of pneumatic or electronic actuator to replace the struts and push it open closed. That would be much cooler! It wouldn't be all that hard to implement, but it would be much more expensive!

Possibly a fried Torque Converter, too.

The QX4 has a hatch-glass release button. It would be very easy to put one on a Pathfinder. Just replace the whole hatch latch mechanism with the one from the QX4 as the actuator is in the latch itself. You'll also need to have a way to energize the actuator, so a Momentary Push-button switch mounted up front, or wherever you want to have it openable from, and....that's it.

A non-LSD Diff will be fine with gear oil with LSD Additive in it. Actually, most differential oils you find on the shelf have the LSD Additive anyways. You absolutely want to use GL-5 in the diffs, but NEVER in a Nissan Manual Transmission, it'll eat all of the brass fittings and seals faster than you can say, "Oh damn, I f***ed up!"

The only way to know for sure is to do the chalk test.

Even after the lift, my truck was the plushest riding car I've ever owned. My current Rabbit has 660lb-in/480lb-in coilovers front/rear, my former DSM had close to the same. The Spring rates for the AC lift are approximately 220lb/in front and 160lb/in rear. The stocks are 155lb/in front and 115lb/in rear.

I read it all, then saw that I had already replied and though...What in the hell? Then I looked at the dates and saw October 2004, and though....Gee....What the hell is this getting bumped for? A link to the FSM! Wow.