vengeful

Yup Dean, you're right about the KMA Bumper. I hope to have some more details and pictures about it today or tomorrow. Whenever Kyle gets back to me.

Not wierd at all. In fact, thats a good thing. Nissan's are built with a positive rake. They handle better with the suspension geometry this way.

Hello SW....would you like a cup of coffee to help you wake up? Perhaps a nice smack upside the head with a 2x4? You do realize this is the R50 forum, right?

I just thought of something else to add: P0158/P0159 I had not had these codes present before I moved to Phoenix. I'm used to using whatever is the cheapest gas around, and in NY, that's Delta Sonic, which uses Shell gas. Here in Phoenix, the cheapest gas stations are Arco. I thought Arco would be good, being that they're subsidiaries of BP, the gas stations I use when I'm in VA. I guess I was wrong. My truck rattled like a son-of-a-gun using Arco Gas, but I dismissed it as simply a rattling heat shield - I was wrong. I recently filled up at a Shell station, and the rattling disappeared. My truck was pinging like nothing I've ever heard. I wonder if that would have caused these O2 sensor codes. I'm going to leave the O2 sensor stuff be for a few days, and recheck the ECM after running more of this detergent Shell gas through my truck. Comments?

Dean, Lewis, I know you guys have dealt with emissions crap before...any ideas?

Wow, so far so good Dean!

OK. This is going to be lengthy, so bear with me. I've got a few problems with my truck, and need some guidance. I don't have time to go through all of the diagnosis in the FSM, especially for the O2 Sensor and EVAP codes. List of Codes and Translations: P0325 - Knock Sensor - An excessively high or low voltage is sent from the Knock Sensor to the ECM (I'm not worried about this one right now). P0158 - Left Bank, Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor - The maximum voltage from the sensor is not reached to the specified voltage. P0159 - Left Bank, Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor - It takes more time for the sensor to respond between rich and lean than specified. P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve/Auxilliary Air Control Valve (IACV-AAC) - The IACV-AAC Valve does not operate properly (uhh...DUH!) P1440 - Evaporative Emission Control System - Small Leak - Positive Pressure - EVAP Control System has a leak or EVAP Control System does not operate Properly. What I know and Symptoms: P0325 - I'm not worried about this, because I'll pass emissions with it in the ECM, and it wont effect anything with the vehicle. P0158/P0159 - This one I'm kind of worried about because it has a rather expensive list of check items. Harness or connections, The sensor itself, Fuel pressure, air intake leaks, fuel injectors. I've already got a replacement sensor (aftermarket, not Nissan), and a full set of intake and top-end gaskets. I'm kind of hoping the malfunction is the Oxygen sensor itself, or an intake air leak, because then I wouldn't be out of pocket anything. I know I need to replace the fuel filter. It's pretty old. However, if the fuel filter was clogged up and causing low fuel-pressure, it would affect both banks of the engine and not just the left bank. Also, at my malfunctioning IACV-AAC Valve set idle speed of 500RPM, the left side exhaust pipe vibrates. The right side is steady. The list of check items for both codes is the same, which is why I put them together here. I'm wondering if there is any reason to eliminate any possible causes because of the fact that both codes are present. I didn't see anything in the FSM, though I may have overlooked it. I also do not recall any TSBs about this. P0505 - The IACV-AAC valve is malfunctioning. My truck idles at about 500RPM when warm. I'm hoping that it's just gummed up and not actually broken, because then, as before, I wouldn't be out of pocket anything. The list of check items on this code is SHORT. The Valve, or the wiring. I have no reason to suspect that the wiring is to blame, but you never know. Has anyone ever had to work on their IACV? Any tips? Anything that I'm overlooking other than the Gasket. P1440 - This is the one I'm worried about. This has a list of check items a mile long, ranging from a loose gas cap, to bad valves. I had to replace my Charcoal canister at about 75,000 miles because it was full of water - my fault. At that time, I did not blow out the EVAP lines or any of that. I used the old VCV and all of that stuff. I have been battling this code for a long time, and haven't been able to get it to go away. I really hope its not a leaky gas tank, because that would just suck. I'm going to inspect the canister tonight, and hope that it's that, because that's a relatively inexpensive repair and it's easy to do. Any other suggestions on where to look? Thanks in advance, and speedy, on-topic replies are appreciated.

Click it to make it bigger.

Well, they're a lot weaker than the Warns, for one. I've seen more MileMarker hubs catastrophically fail than any other brand. I've got a picture of a set that broke on a 4-Cylinder Jeep with open diffs, but I can't seem to find it. I'll post it when I do.

Don't forget to blow out the EVAP Lines BEFORE you replace the valve and canister! Otherwise you'll just cause the same problem again.

That topic has been covered many times. There's a thread about it on the first page of this forum. Take a look.

Look on the bottle for the stuff you bought. Most sales reps don't know peanut butter from jelly, and couldn't tell you the first thing about their products. Make sure the bottle/jug specifically states that it is DextronIII/Mercon rated, otherwise bring it back and get the right stuff. If the cheap stuff is the right rating, it's fine to use. Personally, I use AMSOil in my diffs, tranny and t-case. It's just too expensive to use in the engine, and I change that every 3k, so it's fine.

You'll be able to interchange them easily. Just be sure you don't mix up where the tubes/hoses go. However, you can't use the old valve with the new canister, and vice versa. I've never ordered from EverythingNissan. I use Pinnacle or NissanParts.cc. Also, check out ABCNissanwholesale.com

Yup. First thing to check Archer, is your tire pressures. Make sure they're all even-steven. If they are, then you can go from there.

The charcoal is getting past the o-ring seals on the canister then. You'll need to replace the canister, as it has been "fatigued" as well as the O-rings and blow out the EVAP lines. That should take care of it. I would suggest replacing the valve on the canister at the same time, with the updated (post 4/97) parts.

For discounted Nissan Parts try: NissanParts.cc Pinnacle Nissan They're usually about the same on pricing.

Here's what the FSM Says to check for 1447.

4WD Position Switch Continuity Check information: You might also want to use the information contained in the PDF posted before to check the shift-forks and shift-linkage.

You can also view the entire T-Case section of the Factory Service manual in PDF Format Here. This is the 1999 Service Manual, but the t-case is identical, so the information is relevant.

I just looked in the FSM, and the 4WD Switch seems to be located on the rear half of the t-case case by the output of it. I think its the passengers side of the vehicle. I'll post a capture of the Position Switch check procedure once I get it uploaded here in a minute.

Are you sure it is out of 4WD? Just because the T-case selector is in the 2-hi position, does NOT mean that the T-case has released into 2WD. Is your steering heavy on pavement? When you're parking, and you have the steering wheel at full-lock, does the truck seem to bind up at all? I'm not 100% positive on the position of the switch, but I can look it up when I get home this evening.

Bow as in Bow and Arrow, as in Archery....it's a play on your screen name.... Actually, if the 4WD Indicator light is on, it's one of two things. It's in 4WD, or the 4WD position switch is stuck closed. There are no hubs to disengage on the R50s. They have full-time drive flanges that are always "engaged" so to speak. Check your tire pressures, a difference as little as 3psi can cause binding in the drivetrain that will prevent the t-case from disengaging 4WD.

Sometimes it doesn't kick out right away. If there's slack in the drivetrain, it won't kick out at all. If mine doesn't kick out right away, I put it in reverse, and let it roll back a few feet. That'll relieve the slack in the drivetrain and allow it to kick out of 4WD.

PM me with your VIN and I can look up part numbers and prices for you when I get home this evening.

A 98 doesn't have the switch.