hardwaretoad

Gotta agree with that. I've had mine since '89 and believe it or not, other than updating the headlight bulbs I've replaced a grand total of one brake-light bulb in that entire time... :idea:

A fine choice there, jj ... I too, am running their model 94's with the same specs, only 31x10.5 Yoko Geolander AT II's.

Get an engine block heater for your winters. The Pathy will start easier, warm up faster, and the resultant heat transference to your tranny housing (hence, it's fluid) will make your first mile or two shifting almost as easy as it is in the summer. If that doesn't do it, you can buy a magnetic type (or glue-able) that will attach to the bottom of your tranny & plugs into any 110v power source... Sounds like your neutral safety switch has been disconnected, by-passed, or your interlock switch is constantly on... -thnkboutit-

Sorry B, I'm older & smoke ! Spend another $50. & pick up a Tsunami portable pump from your local "Pimp Boys" ~ you'll have that hummer back to operating PSI in 5-7 minutes after plugging it with no effort...

It has to do with the principals of reciprocating mass. Once you get your heavier flywheel spinning, the work your motor has to do will be much less than with the aluminum, (if indeed there is such a thing). Just because it's been lightened doesn't mean it's aluminum, the steel ones can be machined. I personally have never seen an aluminum flywheel for anything. Now, pulleys are a different matter (and area) entirely... :secret:

Merry Christmas to all...

No PH'ing here, I still haven't figured out how to post multiple images...

Gotta go with the 1st generation, with a frame & shocks rather than the self destructing struts & a unibody... To each their own, though ~ followed a black R50 home from work tonight, we ended up along side each other at a signal, loooked each other's rigs over, thumbs up & smiled... :cool2:

Random, the H/B truck's frame is completely different than our Pathy's ~ PU's use a leaf spring rear suspension, not a 5-link coil set-up. Has a lot to do with the differences in pricing for their respective suspension lift kits... -thnkboutit-

I gotta agree with wheelman on this "color issue"....

Glad you had success. That's what we're all here for ~ to help. And yes, I do....

I don't know if this is the posting you're referring to, but I'll go ahead & provide a link to the guys fabbing these... Natch they show it on a two door... Kennesaw Moutain Accessories Ahhhh, just saw your post re: AC mount kit. Although from everything I've read here & elsewhere (except their own board, that is) I'd stay away (and have) from these guys unless absolutely neccessary... :X

I'll third that... :X

And I thought it was hard to out the back of mine...

Try doing a search here on driving light installs... you'll want a relay in there too, to protect things. -thnkboutit- Here's a simple diagram to get you started, anyone can do this, just take your time...

Biggest thing I noticed was their insistance on having a "Starbucks" near-by! Give me some good ol' "cowboy coffee" off of a campfire ~ nobody needs a $5.00 latte` on the trail except your typical pretentious H2 owner wearing their similarly overpriced Eddie Bauer or Land's End mall rated hikng clothes... Having lived in Elko for close to 12 years, I can almost assure you that most of the local population looked on at these posers with general disdain... :oops:

Take in mind that you're still increasing your rolling resistance by going 12.50" rather than the more common 10.50" wide for your 31's. Even though the diameter is the same you'll still experience a slight loss in effective mileage due to more rubber being on the road... -thnkboutit- Lookin' good though ! Always nice to have new shoes...

Hmmmm. Seems like it'd be easier just not to turn it on. Resale value (if you ever choose to sell it, that is) would certainly be higher with it still on there & functioning, rather than missing completely or piled in a cardboard box for the next owner to try & figure out...

I had BFG AT's ~ worthless in any mud at all. But then again, that's probably why they make an MT... I prefer my Yoko Geolander AT II's ~ to each their own,,,

Sorry mws, can't remember the model number(s) & it's been so many years ago, the boxes are long gone... I suppose I could tear my interior apart...

More like this...

I have Alpine 6.5" three-ways in the doors & their 6x9 three-ways in the mid-panels under the triangle vent windows. No clearance issues what so-ever...

Yeah, but they're 16.5's... -alcohol-

So, other than an additional 2 possible leak-points, what's the advantage? Curious peeps want to know... BTW, congrats on getting your forum back up... :type:

Having lived in Nevada for about 12 years I'm not too sure why you would need a "flotation" type of width for the desert there. Mud and/or snow-wise you're better off with a narrower tread width to cut down through to a harder surface, sand on the other hand, you do want to float on... -thnkboutit- Most of the desert terrain I saw was generally hard surfaced, although I agree it can get plenty sloppy in the winter months. I ran 31x10.50x15's on my Pathy there the entire time with no problems, other than that BFG AT's have a tendancy to clog the tread when faced with sticky mud, etc. ...