slade420

@!*%.

Thanks for the help! i will try it in the morning. btw i forgot to mention, i took the torsion bars, anchors and cross member from my pathy to use on my truck since they were less seized and it better condition. i cleaned it up gave the whole setup a coat of black rust paint.

IM starting to go crazy because of these damn torsion bars. i couldnt get the rear anchors off so i dropped the cross member and everything, along with the front anchors. so i got the cross member back in and re-indexed the front, but i cant get the bars to come forward enough to put the retaining clips on.. and it looks like the bar is all the way in the front anchor.. any help would be appreciated.

the new Audi TT rs has a 2.5L inline 5 turbo 340hp 332 ft·lb it IS sideways in the engine bay tho.. for awd

awesome pathy Larry, looks pretty rugged. my truck is off-road only so im gonna try to get the spiders welded up. is there any adjustments that need to be done when re-installing into the axle housing? or can i just drop it in?

has anyone welded up the spider gears in these axles? the rear, obviously. im too cheap for a locker. also my truck is off-road only, so i dont have to worry about it on the road. side note, i pulled the rear axle outta my dead pathy thinking i could use it for my Hb... turns out they have different gear ratios.. lol

on my Hardbody: get spindles pressed out, and install them in my superlift UCAs, install UCAs, Upper Ball joints, homemade body lift, make 1 more body mount for front clip, re-install torsion bars/cross member, Get rims and tires mounted, put on painted front fenders, pathfinder grill & headlights, steering upgrade...

there are pictures at the top of page 3. mine were so seized i had to take off the front anchors and drop the crossmember, a total PITA...

x2

too much wheel spin at low speeds can just dig you into a hole, dont crawl into the mud and then punch it, thats how lots of people get stuck, you need to keep the momentum going and adjust wheel spin accordingly. too much soin and your losing traction.

Ive read the thread over a few times, and i dont believe its in there. Take a look. if im wrong ill eat my hat!

So after fighting with my torsion bars and getting frustrated i decided to read my Haynes Manual. I think it can help with re-indexing. It says for 4wd models, to take out the adjuster bolt and retainer clip, THEN remove the nuts on the torque arm, allowing you to pull the bar out forwards. just thought id mention it.

just to clarify, by front anchor i mean the one in the lower control arm...I did not think about marking it until it was too late.

Heres a little tip, when you are marking the bar location with paint, mark the front location also. my bars were really seized in the anchors so i used a bottle jack against the frame to push on the anchor... and the bar came out of the front anchor!! and i didnt have the front marked... *sigh*

i found a can of tremclad rust paint (oil based) in my shed, it works really well. The can i found was tho was white rust paint.. so yes i now have a black truck with a white frame.

I was thinking, i know that with the 4" of lift of this kit theres a bunch of different mods you gotta do, like find a 1 piece drive shaft (for the d21). So what if you made up some differential drop brackets that dropped it only 2 inches? the idea being to add a couple inches to a UCA/re-indexed torsion bar lift truck, without needing everything from the $1300 trailmaster kit. any thoughts?

thats awesome. nice find. I was thinking, i know that with the 4" of lift of this kit theres a bunch of different mods you gotta do, like find a 1 piece drive shaft (for the d21). So what if you made up some differential drop brackets that dropped it only 2 inches? the idea being to add a couple inches to a UCA/re-indexed torsion bar lift truck, without needing everything from the $1300 trailmaster kit. what do you think, would you still need to drop the lower control arms?

that civic is sweet, reminds me of that electric concept they made

i have chromies and legos, but i live i the middle of nowhere so shipping would be a bitch, and i live like 800km from the nearest NPORA member. free to anyone that wants to pick them up lol.

if you didnt notice it before, maybe there was a glitch in your system. when your mech disconnected the battery to install your security system, it was disconnected long enough to reset the computer. Thats my best guess... ive been disconnecting mine a lot since i was welding on my truck. My seatbelt warning is really loud

haha thanks nunya. its almost like i know what im doing. since i cant afford the shipping from summit, im gonna get some black rock crawler rims from zoneoffroad.ca, not white like i wanted.. oh well

damnation! Summit wants over $200 for shipping...

thanks a bunch man!, the reason i asked, well part of the reason was if they didnt fit was gotta order some black ones. i think they will go nice with the white rim. what do you think? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-754000B/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/USW-70-5860/ these are the rims im ordering, any help would be great!