Kingman

Your power is going to suck, and it's a royal pain to get dual exhaust properly set up on one of these. You've got to cut and modify the transmission cross member and move some stuff around to make it all work. Not worth it the slightest bit when you'll make better power with a single larger pipe and you don't have to hack the underside of the truck up. A 5.7L Hemi with dual exhaust is a lot different than a little gutless 3.0L with dual exhaust.

Typical hydraulic lifters bleeding down overnight. The worst ones are in the Rodeos/Passports with the V6. Those things clatter like no other, always!

WD40 every electrical connection/switch you can find and dry everything quickly. Does the thing even run anymore? The ECU is under the passenger seat. If it does you're lucky. How long did it sit in the water? You may have some muddy water inside your differentials and transmission as well.

The price is not right, that's ass high for a belt. Anyways, should be square tooth still for the '93s. '94s and '95s are round tooth.

32PSI... 26 is too squishy.

Seriously! Suckers are heavy and the weak floppy dick Horrible Freight transmission jacks aren't really up to the task. If you dismount the transfer case and you do have one of those crappy jacks, please make sure that sucker is secured very tightly. It's awkward as hell and will roll/flip right off the jack. I about landed one right on my hand on super rough asphalt, got it out of the way in the nick of time.

Hope he checks the belt deflection against the FSM before replacing the tensioner instead of assuming it's fine.

Do some research on the subject, there's a lot of info out there. I think the cooling jackets need to be modified and something else... it's not a direct bolt on. It would be easier and make a lot more sense to drill out the stock heads for the 10MM studs, especialy since you'd need to swap the VG30 cams in to the VG33 heads and drill coolant passages.

If they end up being two pods WITH a tweeter I don't think I want one. Two or three pods without for this guy. It doesn't matter what color, actually the plain black would be perfect because I'm slowly painting all of the light blue trim pieces black.

There's no shimming of anything on a VG head. They are hydraulic lifters, way different than the buckets on KAs and you can't adjust them. They tick when there's no oil in them or they're poorly installed.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28134&st=0 Interesting that that link is a pinned topic that's right below the "post new thread" button.

Transmission bushing looks like the input shaft seal. Kinda weird. Panhard bar and sway bar are two very different things. The "track bar bushings" = panhard bar bushings, that's the big ass bar that goes from the frame with a bracket to the axle to locate it. Since you seem to be going with all poly bushings, I'd go with them as well for the rear trailing arms, IF you even need them.

Cheap wires cause problems much quicker. Bosch wires are fine yes. Case and point: I just replaced THREE plug wires on my buddy's 4.6L F150 because he went with the cheapest of cheap... FIFTEEN THOUSAND!!! miles and they were melted inside and barely making any contact. One of them actually melted it's self to the plug on the NO. 4 cylinder, furthest one back and a bitch to get to. Misfires and stumbling galore. Bosch spark plugs are garbage as well, he had those in there. I replaced only the plugs first with NGKs and it actually ran smoother, then traced each stumbling cylinder down and replaced the wires as I went along. Runs like a new truck now. On something that's supposed to last 50-75K miles why go cheap? You'll end up spending more money replacing parts sooner and more frequently.

Just post a pic of it.

NGK plugs and wires are about the best on the market for OEM quality and performance.

Engines spin bearings... it happens. I tore apart a 40K mile VG (different engine that the vid/pic) that was toast because some asshat stuck thick grease in the crank case to maybe "up" the oil pressure. All it did was quickly get sucked in to the sump when the engine warmed up and stop all oil flow. Didn't take long at all to destroy everything. Any movement on a rod is going to knock pretty bad. My NO. 6 rod had about 1/8" of slop and it sounded like that.

The distributor runs off a gear on the camshaft, there's no way for anything in there to whine. Too tight of a timing belt sounds about right, was it tensioned properly? 1/2" deflection at 22LBS? You could pop off the crank pulley and start it to see if it's that.

Lol truth.

Does it sound like this? The problem was this:

We had a few days of 60F sunny weather so I rolled the truck out in to my driveway and worked on it. Got my amp re-installed and got rid of the e-brake handle since it's been broken for almost two years... WOW those are horrible pictures!

They spin over pretty fast. Check the connections and be sure to pay attention to where the negative cable from the battery meets the cable going from the fender to the engine block. I had a 3V drop right at that connection because of corrosion so my starter cranked pretty slow.

250K, it's probably due for a rebuild. I had my machine shop hone the cylinder walls for new rings, mic and polish the crank to run stock-sized aftermarket bearings (cheap route), deck the heads, hot tank, new freeze plugs, and resurfaced the flywheel for $100. If you wanted to run new factory Nissan bearings you'll have to have the crank reground as their replacement bearings are smaller. You may want to have the heads rebuilt or find a really low mileage set to throw on and maybe look in to a new oil pump since they're relatively cheap and at 250K it's time.

Saw that over at Z31P a few days ago, horrible stuff. If anyone thinks that's fake you've got a serious brain malfunction going on. That's as real as it gets.

Never heard of it.

Scored this bumper off an '87 in the junkyard for $35! It's got 5 tabs on top for lights and looks perfect for a hidden winch. And then went to another junkyard and saw these on an '88. Look Bushwacker-ish and if they are I'll go snag them. Definitely not factory flares.