Kingman

Not mine, but pulled a 41,000 mile VG from Japan out of an '87. Lost oil pressure when it warmed up and had some serious cold start bearing knock to it for a second. The sump had a crap load of like thick grease but it didn't smell like burned sludge but the oil was normal. The burned oil inside the bearings sure stunk up the whole shop for a while though. Main bearings are fried, crank journals are scored to hell, and 4 of 6 rod bearings are pitted and scored. Whoever put this engine in is a jackass and needs to never touch a vehicle again. There was a good 1/4" of oil and grime on every surface because they didn't tighten the oil pan bolts or valve cover bolts down very much (barely more than finger tight on some), then tried to stop the leaks by smearing RVT all over the outside of the pan. There were loose nuts and bolts everywhere else too. Bell housing bolts, CV axle bolts, diff bolts, etc. Then the totally hacked together starter harness... yeah the thing was a train wreck. I'm keeping the heads but that's it. I'm assuming the oil pump is totally gummed up from the grease or just plain bad, I'll find out tomorrow I guess. If it's still good I'll keep it and port it.

I said show, not write something most people already know. I like how you dog everything based on theories spinning around in your head instead of anything going on in real life. It makes sense to think that if, in real life scenarios, the Grassroots links were breaking they wouldn't be selling any, many people here would have complained about them, and the company would probably be in over their head with lawsuits from people nearly dying when their trucks lose control. Yet none of that is happening, so they are not breaking. And therefore you're just babbling out your ass again. "I reject your reality and substitute my own." They're designed to withstand 10,000LB side impacts. I can't wait to put one of these links under my truck and make a tried and true Idler Arm brace, it needs it bad. Either save up for new center link or buy a used one from someone here.

Tungsten, show the proof that there's an issue with welding the center links. Show me all of the broken pieces from this design flaw man. Oh wait. There aren't any.

Coolness, I think I know who you're talking about.

Rubbing alcohol, a few clean q-tips, and a very gentle touch is all you need to clean them. Too much pressure screws them up. RockAuto lists the Hitachi (factory equipment) sensor for $126.99 with a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty.

Not even worth it.

You can do a CO test through the cooling system as well, but that only shows if exhaust gasses are being introduced in to the cooling system.

Dangit, keep thinking some of these things are older than that. They're almost as bad but they cleaned them up a little better than the VGs. Seems that the VG3xEs, VG30DEs, and older VQs have trouble with hot spots towards the rear of the engine that causes detonation faster because of the poor water flow tthrough the block from the water pump.

Anyone you talk to that's worked on VGs for a while will tell you to get the front end up in the air. These things are notorious for trapping air, have you seen how crappy the casting is inside the water passages? It's garbage. I was going to get a long bit in there and ream most of the flashing out but got too lazy.

LOL enjoying yourself Garrett?

Is it blocking the rotor from coming out? Did you try and remove it?

Alls I can say is be careful when handling the Horrible Freight 20-ton bottle jacks. They have a rubber fill plug that can get caught on stuff if you're sliding it around and then dump stinky Chinese fluid all over the place. Did that one earlier trying to get the jack out of a storage compartment in a motor home. Pissed me off. A hose clamp seems to cover the plug okay, but the jack would have to come completely apart to tap a proper fill plug in there.

Pretty sure I see a bolt in the bottom picture...

Also wiggle the connection to the MAF sensor next time it's idling high. See if that changes anything.

It should just slide right off after the set/retaining screw is removed. I guess give it a tug if it's stuck on here. But if there wasn't a screw in there in the first place that could be your problem... the rotor turning on the shaft while the distributor is turning. You'll see a hole in the rotor and shaft for the screw.

No it's not, there isn't one. It's the Crank Angle Position Sensor and it's in the distributor like I said. '96+ VG33s have the sensor located on the bell housing.

That's always fun lol Uh, I put the radiator in...

You have about 5 minutes if the engine is cold without the water pump.

If you don't use the grease supplied with the bushings they will come apart quickly. Generic grease don't cut it either. It's also been said that they inhibit overall flex when off roading as they don't allow any twisting. I'll see for myself once I get my damn truck running! That being said I have doubt they'll last no where near as long as a new set of OEM bushings. I had to rip my whole rear end back apart because I didn't pay enough attention installing them and used regular grease, then I looked around online and saw what happens... My old bushings practically fell out as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uK97yYG2X14&feature=g-upl&context=G2bf9d6eAUAAAAAAAEAA

Haha! Cattle in a junkyard right next to an upscale neighborhood. That's awesome! Yo you got pictures of that?

The sensor is under the plate. Taking the cap off shouldn't have hurt anything but these do just die.

Yep, you need new upper and lower link bushings. 4x4parts.com has the poly bushing kit, you want the split type.

It's called the Crank Angle Position Sensor, inside the distributor and it is a bitch to remove. Almost impossible actually. Better luck finding a good used distributor to put in it.

No power on the other side of it, they usually melt too.