Kingman

Not sure how many times I have to say this? Your 3-speed is a stronger transmission than the non-HD 4-speeds. When towing heavy loads you don't really want to use overdrive anyway as the engine loads down too much being gutless and the transmission builds up a lot of heat.

Not my Pathfinder but my buddy's Jimmy. We were at the local playgrounds screwing around and he was doing cookies around a power line tower. There was some grass and he slid into it and right over a massive boulder. It blew a hole in his oil pan, ruined his driveshaft, and remodeled the rear carrier. Man the rear of that thing jumped probably 3 feet in the air! The road/trail getting in is naaaasty and I had to tow him all the way to the nearest store, the Washougal Mercentile which was still 30 miles from home. Pulled the driveshaft in the pouring down rain then towed him back home.

I think a mod should merge these threads but I will reply here. Like I said, your only real option is to swap in a 5-speed or grab a donor '88-'89 Pathfinder and take the entire wiring harness (engine and body), ECU, and TCU to swap in to yours. Then you'll have the capability of running a 4-speed which then you can swap in an HD automatic. I'm not sure why you keep saying the 3-speed is weak. It is not. It will last longer than a standard 4-speed. When you're towing with a heavy load you shouldn't be using overdrive anyway. From my experience the RPM difference in the final drives isn't much - around 500. Not really worth the hassle for a slushbox...

Well it'll bolt in. However the chassis, wiring harnesses are different, the ECU, the TCU, shifter, missing the power button, etc. You'd be better off with a 5-speed or keep the stronger auto you have now.

The 3-speed is stronger than the 4-speed.

When you spray the MAF, make sure you use a q-tip to scrape the wires. Gently! Sometimes spraying doesn't do enough to remove any chunks that might have burned on.

Do you have a Blaupunkt adapter for the antenna or stereo? Pioneer stereo? If so, check the eco fuse inside of it. When they pop the speakers scream noise.

I'm holding you to it!

X2. What solely determines ride height is the torsion bar, it's what holds the suspension up. It's a different version of a leaf spring or coil. The suspension geometry changes in relation to travel so if that bar broke or stripped in the splines you'll have some serious camber issues and a truck that'll be sitting on the bump stops.

Where the Hell are the pics?!

Would be a good idea!

Find one or some big ass vice grips and an impact gun.

The RR mounts seem indestructible. What a few others and I have done for cheap is weld chain to the bottom side of of a good mount so it can't stretch under throttle.

The DE part stands for dual over head cam. That motor uses one cam for intake and one cam for exhaust with variable valve timing per cylinder head. Our dinosaurs use one cam for both intake and exhaust per head.

Jerky and rough... sounds like a hydraulic issue. A bad clutch usually slips (engine revs but no forward motion) or chatters really bad on engagement. Maybe that's what your talking about? A failing master or slave cylinder can change the engagement point of the clutch or not allow the clutch to fully disengage when you push the pedal causing grinding and hard shifter action.

Yeeesh man. There's the '84-'89 300zx with the same single cam motor VG30E(T) as our Pathfinder then the '90+ 300zx with the VG30DE(TT).

Nismo European spec, Schneider racing, Jim Wolf, '84-'3/87 300zx cams, and and a few others.

Can definitely not use cams from a DE(TT)

Of course

There's a 14mm nut on the back side of the brake pedal switch bracket with a rod that goes through the firewall to the brake booster. The pedal pushes on this which in turn applies the brakes. There's an adjustment procedure in the FSM as far as the exact spec for pedal travel and whatnot. Loosen the nut and spin the rod so it moves towards the firewall. Too much though and you'll be blowing out master cylinders. Basically adjusting it takes up the slack in pedal before the brakes actually engage.

Did another driveway alignment, but forgot to untie the rope from my RR wheel before backing up. I swore I did! Wrapped the rope around the disc and bent the pad hardware. Quick fix anyhow. Also adjusted the brake pedal rod so the mushy pedal is gone, now it's right on top. I need to put it on the alignment rack at work but it's hard to find the time especially since it needs every angle corrected not just just a quick toe set. I should get a hold of a large framing square.

Should pull the head off and make sure there's no bent valves. I'd bet there's a few. A few people have had cams snap from the belt being Installed too tight.

Put the new deck in and matched the display color up. Perfect.

Agreed. A good shop with good diagnostic tools won't need to guess. They can plug in with their scanner and manipulate the ABS unit.

I used the WD21 bracket. I kind of remember them being different