Kingman

My '88 Suburban, now thats a real driving townhouse or those Scion Xb...

not sure what could be causing it, but you could jack up the front end and remove the wheel, and take a jack and lift the assembly up and see if you can see anything moving in ways it shouldnt or touching and rubbing

I've always wondered what i t would be like to put a 5.6L from a Titan in one of these

I've been searching for almost an hour now and I cant find a thread on anyone who's done this other than just a brief mention of it. Has anyone posted an actual thread on this? I've been wanting to paint my rims black for a while now, and not really sure what to do with the plasticky material of the stock lego rims. Help!

the horrific buzzing sound youre referring to is the flasher its self. mine did the same thing, even after replacing the flasher it didnt do a thing. it wasnt until a few months later when i messed with the hazard light switch its self, that the buzzing stopped. I had to hard wire some connections inside the hazard light switch assembly to get the damn blinkers to work, but now i dont have hazards. The blinker flasher is right next to the brake pedal, with the black-wrapped wire coming from it, hanging from a clip downwards. What I've found though, is if its intermittently buzzing, you've got a short in your electricals somewhere, so its not getting the constant power it needs to go click click. EDIT: Also, if you have a u-haul trailer hitch accessory, check the very back left trim panel, and check inside the cubby to make sure all the wiring is secure. That also contributed to my issue, some shoddy wiring shorting stuff out. If you don't have one, then disregard this.

3/8ths rubber tubing, yup. The should have bundles of it in the back, I got mine from Baxter's. You couuuuld pull the scam I did, "hello, I bought a transmission cooler from you guys yesterday, and I'm installing it today and I noticed the rubber hose isn't in the package." "Okay, come on buy and we'll get you taken care of!" Went in, the guy asked me how much I thought I would need, I told him 6 feet and he gave me it and sent me on my way

Brakes sticking, ebrake cable too tight, old gummed up differential fluids, hubs not disengaging, etc. Quite a bit can cause some lag in the drivetrain

Like i said, I ran all new lines, so I didn't have to worry about connecting the stock rubber lines that run from the metal line to the radiator leaking and all that. It wasn't hard to do at all, just disconnect the old rubber tubing and make sure you have something to catch the old fluid, route the new rubber lines through the radiator supports and then connect then with a few hose clamps. I had to use 2 as you can see to stop the slight leaking.

Mine took almost 6 feet of tubing, routing the new lines to the metal hoses from the tranny which ends under the water pump about. You've got to route them up low enough to not hit the fan, then up alongside the radiator, then around the radiator and supports, then to the cooler. Same for both lines. I didn't run mine in series though, I did away with the radiator completely. So if you're going to be running the new cooler in parallel or series with the stock cooler, 2.5 ft might be enough, but I doubt it. And in taking those pics just now I found I have another coolant leak... Where the metal tranny lines meet rubber Alongside the radiator Where I had to feed the lines through the radiator support thing (tranny cooler is mounted to the left side of the radiator

Depends if the brakes are self adjusting or not.

Sounds like a u joint pop. How can you be sure its coming from where you said it was? Vehicle sounds are pretty good at making themselves seem like theyre coming from somewhere else.

Try driving a 2006 Kia Sportage in the snow, you almost cant stop AT ALL because the abs goes overboard. Even with 4x4, it's total crap. The traction control wont let the tires spin, and turning it off only makes it slightly better.

shouldnt it still be under warranty? If it is tell the dealer to deal with it

Sell it as it is? How much do you think I could get out of it?

I've never been able to lock up the rear brakes on my WD21, only the fronts. Even with new rear pads, the only time they lock up is if I pull the e-brake. The front's lock up, but only after a lot of force at the pedal.

Tim (the guy I'm working for the tranny) said that when he took his 90's tranny apart because it was bad, he saw quite a few inherent design flaws easily causing failure. He also suggested I drop my oil pan off, and clean the filter inside, maybe buying me some more time. He also said to look for things blocking the ball valves from working properly, and cleaning them out if that's the case. Though this happening and debris in the internals is a sign of a bigger problem with the tranny, planetary gear clutches coming apart, bands, etc. Also, I might ask him if he'd be willing to tear down the old tranny with me, and see exactly what failed, and why.

Yeah back when it first started acting up that's the first thing I did. It settled down after that, until today. All day its been acting up. Watch, tomorrow it'll be perfectly fine.

Tranny is just about gone, barely wants to shift, constantly hunts between 3rd and 2nd, and 1st to 2nd. If I barely hit the gas in 3rd gear it kicks down, and back and forth between gears. It's annoying, but still drivable once it's on the freeway it stays in 2rd gear. I think I got around to putting in a cooler too late, the debris has already stuck its self in some valve in the tranny.

Taking a high lift jack to the hitch reciever and lifting the body away from the suspension works well too if you dont have a lift of any kind. If you separate the muffler and the back tail pipe, you can get the tail pipe out any time you need to by just pulling t out the back, and then dropping the muffler down and what not. Its the first getting everything out that can be a real bitch to do

I think they sound the best with no muffler. I had mine taken off right before the muffler, so i had about a foot long pipe after the cat and that was it. Sounded beefy until about 4500-5000 where it souned tinny and spazzy. Before and after that was great though. Personally i think of any muffler for these, magnaflow sounds the best. Not having backpressure on your cat is bad for it, since its designed to work as one system. You'll wear out your cat a lot faster without backpressure. Thats why im looking for a unit that puts backpressure on it but doesnt muffle the sound.

That's why you do it properly and not take shortcuts

MagnaFlow cat was $107, the exhaust clamps and hangers was $6, and a flowtech raptor muffler was $27. Did all the work myself in a night. It's very simple to do

The material its self is orange. So you would have to find a hardbodu with a clear instrument panel and then use colored bulbs. Or if you wanted to get scientific about it, ask a science teacher which bulb color would cancel out orange and give off blue light

It's also a lot safer to have ABS if you have bald tires up front, less gripping force makes it a whole hell of a lot easier to lock them up and wreck.

that looks sweet. what was the total amount you had to use and the prep process?