Kingman

Running an electric fan shouldn't be a problem with a stock alternator. Most fans draw 25-30 amps initially and then 12-16 amps continually. Your headlights can draw much more than that. Mine draws 26 amps at start up and 14 consistantly. Gas mileage on the highway can improve as well. When you're cruising there's no draw since the fan isn't, or shouldn't be, on.

Hell I just zip tied an electric fan and shroud from a Nissan Quest to my radiator and wired in a Hayden electric fan control unit. Worked flawlessly, until the control unit decided to quit working in dead stop traffic. That was cause for some serious worry... That's the only drawback I can see with an electric fan set up. If something in the system fails, you're SCREWED.

I would suspect a clogged cat. If at anytime it was overheated, it very likely could have melted down inside and is blocking exhaust flow. Running way too rich will kill one too. If the gasket keeps blowing then there's something blocking the exhaust so it's only way out is through that gasket. Try taking the cat off and see if it runs any better, it might be loud, but worth a shot.

Oh God. Please paint that...

Was it Lucas LSD fluid or regular differential fluid? That is key... Since you mention you had to put LSD additive in it, it sounds like you bought regular fluid. You'll get poor results and a ruined LSD rear end with any brand fluid.

Fuel pump doesn't click on when it doesn't start. New relay didn't help, and putting starting fluid in the intake makes it sputter but not run which means it's a fuel problem. It's getting towed to my diesel shop so I can work on it there.

Hmmm. I'm trying to figure out what kind of trend there is for Maxima alternators from NAPA turning on at different RPMs versus charging as soon as the engine is started.

Just now had a chance to sit down and watch the videos. Good work man. I noticed you had a Maxima alternator, did you get that from NAPA? I ask because when you fired the beast up your voltage gauge was at 12V, do you have to rev it to a certain RPM to "turn on" the alternator so it charges at 14V? Mine doesn't turn on until 3300-3700 RPM but works fine once it's on.

Yeah it is! I don't like 4-doors but that does look pretty swet. Kind of Humv-ish. Imagine it black and lifted with 35s... *drools*

Well, actually, let me edit further. Drink A beer between steps. Not sippage of the beer. Coffee sounds good...

Drink beer. Remove wheel. Drink beer. Reach in. Unscrew the filter by hand or a filter wrench. Pull old filter out. Spill oil everywhere. Curse loudly. Drink beer. Put new filter on. Fill with oil through rocker cover. Drink beer.

Factory legos are 15x7. Those tire "experts" are idiots. The 6x5.5" lug pattern is the most common in production and are extremely easy to find. Nissan, Toyota, GM products, and some Fords use this pattern.

Pictures... there should be 3 wires to each 9004 series bulb. Middle is ground and the two remaining are high and low beams.

That's a sweet find and welcome to the forum! Did you continue to take I5 South through Portland, OR? If so what time? I remember seeing a truck exactly like that here in Vancouver, WA heading south.

Nice. Park it before it leaves you stranded randomly and then fix it...

By design a drum brake system will grip harder and stop better going forward, not in reverse. Our e-brakes are drum designed whether it's inside a drum rear brake or a miniature drum mated to a disk brake. (Some pathfinders have rear drum brakes while others have disks.)

Funny thing is, sometimes when it would play games with me, I thought it was the cruise control sticking as well since you can see the accelerator pedal moving as the system compensates for speed. Take a look under your dash and find where the throttle cable connects to the pedal. You'll see a fat metal tab on the end, try pulling on it and see how smoothly it operates... I got it fixed yesterday, nice and smooth again...

I love the sound of Flowmasters, they are deeper and burly while at the same time being a little quieter on smaller engines. Magnaflow seems to have a way to make things extremely ricey. I used two Toyota 3.0Ls to compare, identical engines besides the mufflers. My buddy's Truck SR5 had a Flowmaster 40 series and the 4Runner had a Magnaflow. The Flowmaster sounded amazing, the Magnaflow was gnarly, ricey, and just plain obnoxious. Both had no cats (straight piped) and stock engines.

Some GL5 fluids are okay to use as they don't ALL contain the same additives that eat away brass and bronze. At the same time, no GL4 fluid does so it makes more sense to be on the safe side and not risking using a fluid that may contain the additives. I've read around and I found that some dealers use GL5 that specifically do not contain LSD additives, but one did blow a tranny.

You can also weld the spider gears together for free.

It's 4.37 or 4.63. HG43 is 4.37 HG46 is 4.63

A TSB was issued by Nissan regarding LSD fluids and they specifically recommend Pennzoil LSD differential oil when changing the fluid. Redline is some good sh*t.

There are 5 '87-'89 Pathfinders in the junk yard and 3 '90-'95s...

Lol a Meineke guy messed up my oil change a long time ago and I did the same thing. I drove there on the freeway in 3rd gear so it got extra hot.

On MPFI engines, you set a base timing of 15 degrees at 800 RPM. Then it is constantly advanced/retarded by the ECU and knock sensor so the timing curve stays the same throughout the RPM range. On TBI engines, the timing curve changes with RPM as there is little to no ECU interference with it. What you set it at is what you get.