Kingman

The timing marks on the crank are not 45 degrees out. The dimple on the sprocket needs to line up with notch on the lower lip on the right hand side (facing the motor) of the oil pump. This puts the key somewhat straight up. Then the belt mark lines up with that dimple. I hope you didn't line up the timing mark on the belt with the key on the crank sprocket. That would not be good. And I also hope you didn't end up with the belt on backwards, which would put the timing belt's mark on the left hand side. Did you soak the lifters in a bucket of oil for a couple of days before installing?

Lets put it this way, is a $50 investment worth a $2,000+ rebuild job?

Well I guess I can agree with you on that. It doesn't bother me because it's no longer there. It's in about 50 pieces in a landfill somewhere.

Yeah, 5 short beeps for the seat belt warning. I don't mind it, now that door dinger on the other hand...

Nissan made the Villager for Ford/Mercury. All it is, is a rebadged Nissan Quest. Suzuki also shares a ton of parts with GM.

That's the torque converter locking and unlocking, it's supposed to lock in at highway speeds for better mileage. It randomly unlocking may be a part of your electrical issue, or just old age. TCUs are pretty sensitive to electrical signals and can cause things to act pretty strange. As for your little box, the TDs don't use externally regulated alternators do they? If so that might be what you turned into a crispy critter. If not then I dunno.

Clogged transmission cooler. The 3-speeds are some of the strongest transmissions you'll find, as Mister510 said, and the 4-speeds are fairly close behind. They do seem to fail much more often than the others, however. Which is why I'm replacing one in an '88 at the moment. The HDs will mate to older ones, besides the 3-speed 87s. On those the transmission, ALL WIRING, and computer will need to be transferred. The wiring between the two (3 and 4-speed) is completely different. I don't see any point in installing a weaker transmission for one more gear.

So it's the H.O. motor then. Sweet. Good luck with it, would have liked to see another Pathfinder in the picture but whatever is feasible for you. We've had a lot of Jeeps too and not many problems at all with any of them.

My ride height? Not high enough.

I wish lol. Driving like a granny the best mileage I've ever gotten strictly city was 16. I still don't find that too terribly bad.

L3N71B 3-speed from 1986.5-1987 and the RE4RO1A 4-speed from 1988 to 2004. Those are Nissan's transmissions. They used the RE in the 300ZX, Pathfinder, Xterra, QX4, Frontier, Xterra, and probably a few more. The L3 was used in the old 720s and I think 620s. They could be the same as the 4EAT and Nissan designated them differently.

How well does that breathe being stuffed into the top of the fender like that?

What kind of Jeep?

Take an old bolt to the hardware store and match the threads, making sure to get grade 8? I'm not really sure what you're getting at here.

I averaged around 14 in town and 20-23 on the highway with a TBI system. It all depends on how you drive it, I think a lot of poor mileage in city is impatient drivers (me included) that don't like to lolly-gag when getting up to speed and we do struggle with that a bit...

I know lol. My truck is like my grandpa, new hips and knees and he's good to go!

Hmmm... new 300ZX motor... a 7,000 RPM limiter would be nice.

Yes, that's where it mounts to the exhaust. It plugs in to a harness on the passenger side of the engine bay. Good thing is, TBI O2 sensors don't do that much drive ability-wise. Check to make sure the TPS sensor plug didn't come undone, or wires didn't break. If it's good, pull the plug off and make sure there's no corrosion on/in the contacts. Does it smell rich, or use more fuel than normal? Also, check damn well to make sure there's no arching of the coil wire... it will mess with you for days and will make you feel like an idiot for dinking around with everything else when a piece of electrical tape can fix the problem. This is what mine did with a slightly arching coil wire, which was brand new by the way. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=VUpwo0eti4I

I agree with B. We have a local Nissan/Datsun shop owned by an old guy and we were talking one day, for literally hours, and that came up somehow. That's exactly what he said that's why the pre-cats were put on, for cold weather emissions. He also said that they aren't needed to pass emissions at all, only to speed up the process.

Napa Gold filters are made by Wix, and Fram filters are absolute garbage. I had a pretty decent lifter tick on my old Pathfinder that seemed a little more pronounced than a usual cold start tick. Seafoam cleared it up almost completely. ATF is highly detergent and can be used to clean almost anything out of the engine, only problem is that if you run it too long in your motor all the crap that comes loose will clog your oil filter. About 1/2 a quart of ATF in place of oil should do plenty for cleaning, so only run it in there about 250 miles and repeat again with a new filter. After 2 passes your engine should be sparkly clean inside. 20/50 seems really thick to be putting in a VG... we have some of the tightest bearing tolerances of any motor out there.

3 things cause oil smoke from the tailpipe...rings, valves, or the PCV valve being clogged. If it only smokes on start up I'm voting for bad valve seals. PCV valve would only blow smoke at high RPMs when the pressure in the crank case gets too high and forces oil past the piston rings. Piston rings would blow smoke all the time.

We used Philips dome tweaters and they are about 2" in diameter and maybe 1/2" tall and come with a black or silver grill. They fit perfectly and the only hole required to drill was one big enough for 18 gauge speaker wire. Just a side note though, try and get tweeters that have a vibrating crystal dome element instead of voice coils. They draw virtually no power so they can be spliced in on the same circuit as another speaker and won't affect anything at all in the deck.

I did what MY1PATH tried and it really worked. Before my exhaust smelled horrible at idle and now it smells basically like I have a catalytic converter on there. Backfires were cut down as well which I've almost always had a problem with on this engine. It seemed to have a little better throttle response and didn't bog down quite as easy but I didn't really have long enough before the motor blew to figure out what it did to my gas mileage. I capped off one entire slot on the injector cap, I tried more but as soon as I started messing with the other one it would barely run.

Pillars are a pretty poor place to put tweeters since they are so directional and project a really small cone of sound. You have a '91 right? The square dashes have a perfect spot for tweeters, right on each end of the dash board. The end flat spot on the driver's side next to the gauge cluster (2x2 pad) about and the same flat spot on the other end. (Circled in red). Basically that will direct the sound at the bottom part of the windshield and reflect it directly back at the passengers and fill the cabin with highs. Moving the tweeters from the factory location on the pillars to here makes a huge difference.

Nissan states warm idle to be between 750-850 with no accessories on, it should say it on a placard under your hood as well as timing marks. Try adjusting it according to MY1PATH's post.