tekazgtr1984

Aftermarket kits only. But never anything factory.

I can source more sets, both for the pre-facelift and facelift R50's. It just takes a few months. Really glad you're enjoying this kit, Andrew.

Short answer: yes.

JDM FTW.

Ah, nunya. Always good for a laugh. I'd say the biggest concern is the backspacing of your wheels. I ran 265/75R16 Toyo A/T Open Countrys on 16x8 wheels with 3.75" backspacing and I had maybe 3/8"-1/2" of clearance between the strut and the tire. Wheels with 4.5" backspacing might pose a challenge. The only way to know will be doing a dry run to see how it all comes together. Worst case scenario: you may have to get wheel spacers to make it work.

Sick. Your rig is just badass. That license plate holder is sweet, BTW.

Looks awesome, Andrew! Kudos on a clean install. Looks pimp!

These were standard equipment on the R50 Terrano R3m-R and G3m-R, only available in Japan and through the grey markets in Oceania and Great Britain. Can't wait to see the finished product.

This. Or supercharge your VG if you go the rebuild route.

Best thread ever.

Looks good with the four lights. More even for some reason... The reflection on your hood is priceless.

Boss! Those two lights look like they could a couple more buddies at least.

Great information posted so far. This forum doesn't kick too much butt or anything... Speaking from my own experience, I've had the chance to own two R50s, one being a '98 Pathfinder and the other is my current rig, a '01 Infiniti QX4. The differences between the two are negligible at best; the newer models are more well-equipped but I wouldn't let that be a determining factor in your decision. First off, the '98 Pathfinder is a great SUV. It's well-built, well-balanced in terms of handling vs. power, capability vs. practicality, etc. The VG33E is a veritable tank of a motor, the only "weak" point being the timing belt. I use the term loosely because it's hardly a concern if you maintain a vehicle properly. The timing belt is said to last 100K miles so it's not like it's something that has to be changed frequently. It is a pretty tedious job but do it once and the next time is a breeze. The O2 sensors on the pre '99.5 R50s are also known to fail, so be mindful of that when shopping. Otherwise, for a 3.3L SOHC motor it's got plenty of low-end torque and sufficient power for day-to-day use. A few simple mods will help output, too. All in all, keep the motor happy and it'll reward you with reliability and durability that will last for many years and many miles. The transmission on the '98 is also very reliable, and works well with the manual transfer case. Again, basic maintenance will keep both working without a hitch. If you plan on going off the pavement, I'd recommend a XE or SE model with the 4.636:1 differential. It's a bit more thirsty but it's got some added pep from a standstill compared to the 4.363:1 diff found in some XE and all LE models (keep in mind, these differentials affect the whole range from '96-'04). Other things to look for when buying are rear control arm bushings. These tend to crap out, especially on a 13-year old vehicle and can lead to the dreaded "death wobble" at higher speeds. However, bushings are relatively affordable and there are some good aftermarket options out there made of much more durable material. As for rust, I don't think any pre-2004 Japanese-imported vehicle is not susceptible to this sad reality. Being from MB, my '98 had quite a bit, the worst being the rear quater panel where the "body" is connected to the "frame" and the spring perch for the rear axle. I'm not sure if this will be a concern down in CO but it's something to look for when you're shopping. Overall, the pre-facelift R50 is a great SUV and when compared to higher-priced 4Runners, it's a way better option. I'm not sure what differences exist between the '97 and '98 but I'm sure they're minimal at best. Damn, that was reminiscent... As for the newer model R50s (a.k.a., facelift model), you get different bumpers, grill, hood, and headlights on the VG-equipped ones ('99.5-'00). Besides these superficial changes, it's the same vehicle as the '96-'99 R50s. The engine change took place for the '01 R50, which has the VQ35DE. This is a DOHC, aluminum block engine using a timing chain, as opposed to the SOHC, iron block engine with timing belt in the VG33E. From a purely performance standpoint, the VQ is the superior engine out of the box. Keep in mind I say out of the box, because I'd take a boosted VG34E over a VQ35DE any day of the week. I'd also consider the VQ35DE to be more of a maintenace hog. My QX4 is just over 131K km (~80K miles) and I had to replace the MAF sensor, something I never did on my '98 even though it was nearly at 200K km (~120K miles). Also, after around 100K miles, the VQ is known to start burning oil. I think this only applies to the asshats who fail to keep up with maintenance, though. Oil changes are important on both engines but I'd say even moreso on the VQ. Keep in mind, the VQ is more performance-oriented engine so it will naturally require more upkeep than the VG, which I'd consider more of a workhorse engine. As far as fuel economy is concerned, I say both are about the same, 16-18 city and 20-21 highway. Of course, this depends on your driving style. My '98 was relatively modified and I was still able to push 15 city and 19 highway. The All-Mode transfer case was offered on the '01-up Pathfinder LE and Infinity QX4 (IIRC, someone correct if I'm wrong) and utilizes wheel speed sensors up front to provide a kind-of AWD system for use on slippery roads, snow, etc. It also allows for 4x4 just like the manual lever transfer case but offers a lower range gear when employing 4LO. I've used both and like them equally in terms of 4x4 capability; the All-Mode AWD is nice in winter up here in the GWN, though. So there you have it, pretty much all you need to know about the R50 Pathfinder. If you have plans to modify, you'll find this forum to be the single best online resource there is. Good luck with your purchase!

Well done!

The rear tailgate should unlock/lock with all four dours when using the keyfob. Sounds like it could be the solenoid. Have you checked the electrical connection to the rear tailgate to see if anything's loose?

Don't forget the sliders.

LawDawg: try installing the wheels/tires on with the lift kit installed and see if they clear the struts. 4x4parts.com recommends 3.75" backspacing but that could be speculative. The guy who bought my lift kit has wheels with 4" backspacing and everything mounted up just fine, 31" tires clear the struts. Failing that, wheel spacers are an option.

Very nice. The Territory is quite an impressive tire from what I've read and based on the testimony of a friend who put these on his '98 LE. As for the rubbing, I'm sure it's minimal and a little heat should do the trick.

I'd check for window seal leaks, etc.

There is a member from Ukraine doing this very swap on his pre-facelift R50. Here's the link to his build thread: Danyur's VG to VQ swap As previously stated, anything is possible with the right amount of time, money and dedication. Your best bet would be to source a R50 VQ motor because it was built for the R50 engine bay, which may differ slightly from other platforms (Z33, V35, FX35, etc.). Honestly, I'd say you'd be better off to go with a turbo diesel swap, or sticking with the VG33E and doing a supercharger upgrade. You could then go with custom exhaust, JWT S1 cams, intake, ECU flash, etc. The choice is yours but research your options and go from there.

True story. Happened to a friend of a friend of mine.

The manager of the store in question should do himself a favour and quit his job. Or his boss should fire his dumb ass.

From what I can tell, the coils all provide the same amount of lift. The determining factor is what you have equipped on your rig (winch, bumper, etc.) when it comes to how the coils settle.