tekazgtr1984

Tyler, I am definitely interested. We should discuss this idea further.

Tyler, that control arm you fabbed up is just beautiful. Any plans to make 'em for R50s?

You can easily source a Nissan TD27 for your '95 but be prepared to put in a lot of time, work and moolah.

Lame... But luckily it *should* be a no-charge recall. I looked into this a bit more. It looks like it affects R50s from MY 1996-2000.

Does anyone know how to check why running lights don't work? Mine have been functioning intermittently over the last while (i.e. I'll fire up the truck and they'll be on, go for a short drive, shut off the truck. When I turn it back on, the running lights don't work.) and I'd like to know how I can permanently remedy this issue. Cheers!

Anyone living in a high-risk rust area might want to learn more about this recall. http://www.automotive.com/1998/49/nissan/pathfinder/recalls/68969.html Not sure if this affects other year models but I wouldn't be surprised if it did.

Well a 2010 FX doesn't compare to an older Bose in say a R50 or older Maxima. I'll bet it sounds just sick, though. And yes, I agree. I'm putting my cash towards wheels, tires, a 5-speed and lockers!

X2. The Bose system is decent but if you're serious about your tunes, aftermarket's the way to go. Dean's write-up put it best. That method is your best way to do it effectively and efficiently. I went all Alpine in my '98, and it's absolutely great. Now I gotta find a way to install my PS2 and connect to the head unit!

Awesome.

Hilarious! No wonder Chrysler filed for bankruptcy protection...

Good stuff. Poly bushings are always a good choice. I make sure to lube mine with silcone spray before install. Also, replacement links are a good idea. I installed greaseable Moog links and they rock!

I look at these pics... and all I can think is: "epic".

You're referring to the front sway bar, right?

Have you been in touch with Dan at all lately, Mike? I gotta say his presence on here is greatly missed.

With the AC lift your rear will sit higher than the front, giving your R50 a raked look, AKA the tow truck look. Getting 1" strut spacers up front will level out your ride so the rear shouldn't require spacers. Keep in mind this can put considerable stress on your CV boots so you may want to consider manual hubs.

Really? I just checked my can in the garage and there's a good amount of direction on it.

This R50 build is totally epic.

I'm going to say heat shields on your exhaust. Mine were pretty rusted and I noticed at certain RPMs there was a metallic vibration sound. Sure enough, I removed those lousy shields and the sound was gone.

I've never heard of the cylinder via spark plug idea but that does sound intriguing. In the past when I've used SeaFoam, I've done the three-step program as per the directions on the can. The results were great. Be prepared to deal with a lot of acrid, nasty smoke, though should you use the vacuum hose method.

One wicked-ass project. Trust me when I say pics don't do it justice.

Yeah, got it. Buddy.

X3. Great DIY thread.

So the front driveshaft crosses? I'm confused to say the least. From the way everything looks from the cab, the t-case is positioned the same. My conclusion would be the t-case in the Safari differs greatly from the R50... I don't get it.

My buddy runs redline in his '98 R50 and swears by it.

Really? I've done a bit of research and based on what pictures I've seen of JDM Safaris, the tranmission/t-case is positioned exactly the same as the R50 Terrano/Pathfinder. Here's a picture I found of the interior of a '96 Safari Spirit II. Does this check out, or am I missing something?