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tekazgtr1984

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Everything posted by tekazgtr1984

  1. For aesthetic reasons, absolutely. I'm pretty sure for functionality, the R50 drums perform better than the WD21 discs. I could be wrong, though.
  2. Yeah, I figure for the amount of money, it's just not worth it. I'd rather put that g-note towards air lockers.
  3. I'm sure with enough time and money anything could be possible regarding this modification. That being said, I wouldn't swap in WD21 discs because they're designed for the WD21. I'd rather look into aftermarket discs (i.e., Brembo, Baer, etc.) and improve on the overall braking of the R50, taking into consideration larger tires and added weight (bumper, winch, roof rack, gear, etc.)
  4. We're not talking about the ATX14, though. I think I can live with 4.636 gears and the OEM TX-10 gears... Not worth spending a grand just to crawl.
  5. Mine did the exact same thing after cleaning the TB. It was annoying as hell as I could never figure out what it was... It just went away one day and has been okay ever since. I'm guessing the same should happen for you.
  6. I figured they're the same gears as the transfer case is the same but good to know these are offered for both vehicles. I doubt I'll ever need these, and the pricetag's a bit too steep. Thanks for the clarification!
  7. Came across this on AC (4x4parts.com) and was wondering two things: TX-10 gears 1) Would these gears work in the R50 transfer case (same coding as Xterra)? 2) For the price, would it be a worthwhile modification?
  8. X2. I'll keep my eyes open for one at junkers here.
  9. My guess is WD21 because his truck's a D21 Hardbody.
  10. Count me in for one, please. BTW, the layout is pretty sound. And the aerodynamic benefit will be substantial, too.
  11. I'd like to find a way to run Brembo brakes all around! To be honest, I just want to get rid of ugly, archaic drums.
  12. I'd like to learn more about it before making an attempt. And some help would be nice, too. I may have to look into this more.
  13. I found this when I was on Rugged Rocks and was wondering about it... Rear disc-brake conversion Is this possible on the R50 rear axle? It'd be nice to look into beefing up the brakes all around...
  14. Good idea. Why didn't you just do that in the first place...?
  15. You'll need to trim regardless of what coils/spacers you install. My best advice would be to contact Andrew (01silvapathy).
  16. IIRC, a 16" wheel is the minimum you can go with the late model R50 (99.5+) because of the larger brakes. However, this could be solved with the proper backspacing to clear the caliper. Hopefully someone else chimes in to confirm or deny that.
  17. I think it would be wise to get some extended SS brake lines for up front. Just for the peace of mind and extra length, it wouldn't be a bad idea.
  18. Just thought I'd throw this out there. I had Andrew build a 4" SFD... So does that mean I'll need to get longer brake lines up front as well?
  19. I'm pretty sure OME offers different heights for their coils, ranging from .5" to 1.75" lift. Even HD all around work quite well. No matter which kit you choose, be it AC or OME, your front struts will top out frequently until the coils settle. It's nothing too critical; it just means slowing down when necessary... Wheel spacers aren't exactly necessary if you only plan on going with a suspension lift, permitting the wheels you choose have ample backspacing/offset to clear the strut. I'm currently running the OME HD lift (1.75") on 265/75R16 Toyo A/T tires and the only issue I ever had was reversing at full lock (in parking lots and confined spaces). However, with trimming along the front of the fenders, you should be able to solve that. I've heard even heat moulding helps. As for strut spacers, these are most often used to help level out the ride of your rig. Both AC and OME coils don't take into account the 'natural' rake of the R50, and the coils tend to settle quicker up front than in the rear, leaving the rake much more noticeable over time. Strut spacers help to minimize the raked look at give your rig a more leveled appearance. But these differ from a SFD kit because the SFD kit requires subframe spacers, engine mount spacers and strut spacers.
  20. No, I'll have about the same with spacers installed, though...
  21. You'd be better off going A/M and just getting better rotors and pads.
  22. Thanks, Adam! I found exactly what I need. But now I'm wondering if there's more to this auto climate control system, i.e., in the dash... I'll keep digging...
  23. I'm definitely interested in R50 shafts. Now I'm curious, though. Would it be possible to use these shafts and mount rear discs for the R50 application? If that's the case, I'll be buying these.
  24. Not that this is all that important, or necessary for that matter... I have tinkered with the thought of installing a auto climate control unit from the '00 LE (pretty sure the first year it was offered) in my '98 for the following reasons: 1) it's totally convenient, mostly because my screen covers the controls anyway... 2) it'll class up the Pathy (yes, I know that's vain but I still want to do it) Now, I've located a '00 LE with all the hardware at the JY. However, I need to know what specific parts I need to take out in order to make this functional in my '98. I'm guessing Nissan blueprints or exploded dash layout scheme would come in handy. I don't know where to find these, though. If anyone has a link or knows how to go about finding these, please help me.
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