fleurys

I hardwired my clinometer and at the same time decided to remove my cigarette lighter socket that I burned while doing a stupid thing....(no details please ..haha) .... After almost 1 hour of fiddling, going through the fsm..nothing.... I can't figure out where to press, hold, push or whatever to get the socket to release. Anyone has done this before and remember in detail how to do.... I'm freaking out !! Right now, changing a cigarette lighter socket prooves to be longer than replacing my 2 cvs.... ps. It's the one in the center console..just underneath the radio... help !!!

great pictures...thanks.... here's what you ask... http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keywor...81260&dds=1 cheapest place I could find even with the conversion and broker fees...

did I miss something..

I know that something is baking in austrialia with a tire carrier hooked on the hitch... I know this could be good for those who would like to keep the oem rear bumper... the story here: http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1...=a&start=30

How about bolting from the top down....that could work no ?? If we cut the existing bolts (grinder), then start the new ones from the strut tower, screw in the threaded spacer, then put the nut under the upper spring retainer... same force, same strenght, just the bolt head on top instead of under... That would save alot of headaches and time..... I know the last time I had to compress the ac coils, it took a real good spring compressor (garage strenght and even then, the guy worked alot for it to compress enough....)

Question like that.... If I get the threaded top spacer, technically I should be able to pop out the old short bracket bolts, install the spacer, screw in the new bolts ...all this without having to disassemble the strut-coil assembly..right ?? **edit**.. mmm I just looked at the picture, and I guess the challenge is removing and installing the bolts because the top plate of the coil retainer is in the way... PLease just confirm... S.

Do you think the front will be higher than the rear when you're done ??? I'm looking also to put 33" with 1 inch spacers..but wondering if I 'll have to put some in the back also... A good picture of the cv angle would great if you could....

good pics....I don't remember...did you have the ac coils also ?? to give an idea of the space around the tire, what's the diameter you got now ? 32 ? 31 ?

240 hp is not enough for you guys ??? Last time I checked, It was enough to kill to cv .... ask gpg ..... I think we have enough... My 2 cents...

My 1/4" aluminum will kick a 3/16" steel skid's ass all day... Sledgehammer tested ... also...say goodbye to 15 minutes oil changes with the others...

Well, I'm just thinking out loud to what is between your key and your starter if you say that she does not start...the only thing coming to mind is this... When you say you need a jump for restart, do it tries to start or you only hear click...(or nothing at all) ?? I would also check the connections between your battery and the alty...maybe your cable is grounded on something or badly deterioated ... If your battery lights comes on, it means you have fallen under 9 or 10 volts....so something is fishy here...You said you tested the alty... do you know the amperage it gives at idle speed....because you say the light goes away after you drive, I'm tempted to say that you alty is still defective and not giving enough amp at idle speed. I had one alty do this on me on another car that I had....

starter relay ???

I'm interessted...give more specs though on the different amp at the different rpm... Sealed brushes...?? does that mean water will never kill this alty ?? more details and links if you can baout this can of alternator...

220$ CAD... and well worth it ! ( I know I'm not objective on this one....)

haaaaa I know.... It's my Countersunk Bolts !!! they defeat the wind resistance !!! ....Seriously...if my plate made you save MPG than I need to reconsider my price I'm happy if you're happy !....pictures please !

Man, what do you guys smoke !! ?? ;-)

I bought this : http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/bumper-lift.html to use it on my hitch for the back and on the bull bar for the front.... but sincerly, I have never had the chance (or not), to use it.... but it still can do the job I think...

no.... believe me...you'll know.... It's a loud BANG! ... I'm still not fully used to it...still get the little gut feeling when it happens...;-)

Last time I read something about your tc and transmission oil change, you said the 2 were sharing the same oil...(Which is not true)... I'm not sure if you figured it out..but if you did not, is it possible that you flushed the tc, then the trans than refilled the trans, leaving the tc empty thinking it would filled it too?? S.

I would say i do not agree... my opinion is , if I had the money and my pathfinder was not my DD, then this would be my ultimate add-on!... I think this is the best invention ever made for off-road 4x4 enthusiasts like me. At one point I did the exercise of looking to see how much it would cost, and it would cost around 40K to equip the patty with it.... Here's a few videos.... There's a company in Ontario (eratours) that use them on there H1 to do off-road tours.. name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars=""> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars=""> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars=""> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars="">

I would probably only add one thing that I almost learned the hard way....Always remove the REFILL BOLT FIRST!. This way you are sure that you will be able to refill... On my part the drain bolt of my TC came off easily but the refill one took a ratchet extension and a helper bar (whatever you call this) and at one point it was either it comes off or I break/strip the bolt... I was giving myself a 50/50 chance... This bolt must have been torqued by the earlier owner to probably 100+ ft/pounds if not more... I got lucky.... I understand it would not have change the end results, but at least I would have had the option of stopping right there....With no oil in my TC, I just had to find a way to remove that bolt or else I was going nowhere.!

on my part, just did the tc, tranny and front diff last weekend... The right way for me is to do it at the transmission pan with the draining bolt. The way I do it is that I have a big canister that is "rated" with ammounts (like 1qt, 2qt, etc..)... So I wait for every dop to be out, then screw back the bolts, and put new atf oil in the same canister up to the same level. Therefore I always know that i'm putting the exact ammount I removed. For the TC and the diffs, it's as easy as draining from one bolt and refilling from the other until it leaks from the hole.

where did you buy them at that price ??!! The best I could find was at amazon 169 or 179 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw?url=s...ords=warn+29091

What zibi said is true, but we have found lately that runnig hubs when you have a transfer case with the auto or all-time then you might be causing pre-mature wear on the tc gears.. The atx14a transfer case has 2 oil pumps to maintain oil pressure and one of them is being run by the half-shafts...so with the hubs, you're preventing good lubrification of the transfer case... Personnaly I run with no hubs with the AC lift only since a few months (4), and did change my half-shaft because the boots were old and crippled.....and a hardcore mud trail did not help.. so now I have new ones on and shall see how long they last... But one thing's for sure , If I put them on , they would stay locked all the time and would use them only if I break in the trail and can't change the half-shaft...

Look great ... nice truck .