MY1PATH

x2

that is a good link but here's a short answer for kicks. Bodylift for bigger tires (32+) Suspension lift for better ground clearance.

well Dealers like to charge lots. Asuming you get a decent mechaninc who does the job in 4-6 hours at 75 bucks an hour $300-450.

I checked out MR Jims ARB pretty closely. the only thing I could seen it needing was to be installed with a few stich welds or have some better anchoring on the top half. But all in all it was really good even pulling me up hill after I dug a deep rut.

The screw is not letting more engine into the engine Like a carb. The screw is letting more air go past the Air sensor and more air past the sensor tells the ecu to add more fuel. IIRC not all the TBI engines had this screw I think some of them had it ajusted and plugged at the factory...

I gotta say, IMO, Black Magic Exteme 180 HANDS DOWN! Comes with a thermostat control and built in relay. I the winter it will drop my radiator temps by 20 degrees in a matter of seconds. In the summer it says on top of things better than the stcok fan did snd the big shroud covers radiator core. The fan only only draws 18 amps(constant) and I gotta say I like it enough to pay full price on a second one for my new 94. If your gonna go aftermarket the Black magic exreme is the best choice. If your trying to save money Quest is a good option.

but then again what emssions station is gonna have a know how of what emissions regs need to be in place for a TD27. Can you get brownie points for alternatve fuels? I know some places that exept vehcles that have been adapted to running on propane only or enthanol only fuels. Maybe you can get an exemption if you run on vegie oil? (switch back after the test if you like.) I know if i ever go back to cali I'll be switching to E85 if emissions give me trouble the first time arround.

I think a Shim washer BAD IDEA. for one becase of how thin it would need to be it would risk getting beat to hell in there. Think about it, the cam goin 3500 maximum RPM, heating and cooling constantly a .003"... I had my locate plates machined, nissan can get them if you talk to the right ppl but its a long wait. I had them machined .005 concave oneside and .005 convex the other before I did the job. once I knew which way needed to go it was just a matter of sanding it down(280 grit) to the minimum amount play and then polising it some (400 grit wet)

verdict. lights and Light wings get stuff on the center of your window lol

the nice thing about anolog flashers is they let you know when you have a blub out. But then again I guess that won't happen so often if you have LED's

a good oil spray to soak the frame also helps protect it. I think there are some Eco-friendly oil prouducts that can do this. (mineral oils and such)

take a cover off and find out. I know the VG baffles run the lenght of the cover and you can improve on them by sealing the half closest to the hose so that the vapors are only drawn from the opposite side of the cover. You could also rig an oil catch can between your cover and your intake. maybe look into other problems too; Like too much oil... and overfilled engine will airate the oil more (sometimes thinning and breaking it down) this leads to more oil in the pcv as well as more oil past the rings. High rpms increase this airation if your oil is too full.

I like the straight wing better I just think it looks better light or no light. I do know the straight wing with no light kept my back glass clean before I got the light. Once installed there was a dirter streak the width of the light going down the center. when I tried the Light wing the streak became a wedge pointing towards the light. I guess I need a rear wiper now...

yes, I'm not sure it warrnts a write up. You'll understand as soon as you pull one from another rig

x2 It looks good man!

Yes! And the Monroe sensa-trac makes a comfrotable street ride no matter what height your front sits at.

OK 1 off or unique build I can understand taking a LITTLE longer but that is NO EXCUSE FOR POOR QUALITY WORK. I literally cut my self taking this thing out of the box and one of the welds looks like it blew out and they had to fill it. The rest of the welds aren't perfect either. For a fab shop, ppl who cut metal and weld all day every day for a living, you should expect MUCH MORE. Now if my neghbor had made something like that in his garage in his spare time the bar would be much lower and I would say "good job, can I help you clean up these sharp edges"

That should do the trick, the Moog replacements are progressive so they get firmer as the load increases. Let us know how you like em, I'm thinking about getting some for my 94.

The front shocks are the same weather you have 0, 1", 2" and 3" of lift. There will be no problems as far as the shock goes. And yes nice Progressive springs would a good option; Stock ride comfort that tightens up half way thru its compression for trailers and heavy loads.

I like valvoline maxlife DEX III. I also use it in my power steering.

6" BL!!! WTF really? Thats insane! lol. I just found your pics, looks good but I think you gotta hide those frame rails from view by gettin some sliders. anyway, back to topic... I've got a half finished KMA sitting under my couch with razor sharp edges, some Booger welds and allot of dissapointment. I guess their work is made on demand I spent over 6 months demanding what I paid for when the estimated me 2-3 weeks. Every time I called them I got excuses, insincere apologies and weak promises that they would make progress by "next week". WTF they said "next week" for half a year. once I save up to get a few more tools I'll be finishing the product on my own.

Things that cause a knock also known as pre-detonation. (things to check if unpugging or changing doesn't solve your problem) High compression. Exessive cabon deposits inside the head on on the piston can raise the compression and fuel burns quicker under higer compression so less timing is needed. Too Low octane, doesn't apply to our rigs since we run the lowest octane anyway. Octane is resistance to detonation and not a measurement of power. Wong spark timing. if your spark timing is too far advanced you fuel will try to burn too early wrong valve timing. If your intake shuts sooner cyl preasure will become higher. In rare cases this can cause a knock. Over heating. Heat! if the cyl is too hot the fuel will burn faster OR it will ignite on its own. wrong spark plug(mostly heat range) If your plug retains too much heat from the previous combustion your fuel will ignite upon touching it Debris and deposits. If debis or deposits in your cyl are allowed to burn or smolder they will ignite fuel upon contact.

You may have misundersood what you have read. A knock is when the fuel combusts too quickly (pre-detonation) and pushes down on the piston coming up. This litterally makes a knock sound and is very harsh on the internals and not ecu will intentionally take the engine up to that point and dial it back when it hits it. When the engine knocks it sends a shockwave thru the block which is picked up by the knock sensor. If you had one hooked up in your hand and you sammed it against something hard you could set it off. On the 87-95 ecu when the knock sensor is triggered it retards the timing by 5 degrees. If the sensor has failed ie, triggered by the jolt of re-accelerating, other smaller vibrations or just shorting inside your timing will retard momentarily and you will feel miss or other loss of power as the fuel chases the piston on its way down instead of helping to push it down and less of it is burned before the valve opens so either way it can give your o2 a bad reading. You will get a knock code becase ecu retarded the timing and still felt the vibration. so you change (or unplug as some ppl do...)the sensor clear the codes and all is well. If the sensor is working properly and you get a knock you may or may not hear it knock once and will notice almost nothing else and you engine will live longer. I think your sensor is bad because thats what usually happens. Hell some reman VG's don't even have a knock sensor and really N/A VG's are not prone to knocking. I don't know if the knock sensor has a pigtai harness that can be unpulggedfrom the top side of the engine (I'd assume it would) but if you can find what wire it is you can unplug it and see if your problem goes away. If you get an audiable knock instead pull over ASAP! and plug it back in.

an arb for a hardbody would sit 1.5" higer so if you have a 2" BL you'd be fine... 3" BL; you could choose to live with it.

For ~1" lift OME makes a nice set of coils that won't get loose. For Returning to stock height Moog Makes a decent set of Progressive springs. Its just too bad there aren't any progressive lift springs out there for our rigs. If you wanna keep it an inch lower but have springs that won't get loose you need a 15" coil with 175-180LB per inch rate. A cut coil actually gets stiffer so if they cut ~1" off you coil your aproximate spring rate is 190~200 instead of stock ~180.