MY1PATH

3 cap fulls in your power steering clear things up too. Or you can do a steering flush and see all the gunk that comes out...

funny you say that cause its all wrong... the VG33ER ran 4psi of boost and the same 9:1 pistons as its N/A brother. the paddles are teflon coated

x2 seal the box and then open up one side hole for your in fender snorkel. You can see how mine is done below. or if you get deeper mud/water you can opt for a full snorkel...

agreed visual would def. fail the second they opened the hood. But there's away around that as well... The lower manifold is the same if you have all the TB and upper maifold coolant lines removed (visually looks the same without them) you could remove the SC, put a reguar upper manifold on in a few hours and pass smog. How often do you have to smog? 2 yrs? or get an 87 pathy to do this to because the will be exempt in 2012... my 89 won't be getting a full time blower till at least 2015

your missing my point entirely. I was asking if the little anchor on the aft side of the control arm had been removed. Grr where's a picture when I need one. I imgagine getting the bolt thru that anchor could prove difficult if its corroded...

In cali there is a loop hole for engines "same vehicle of same or newer year" Now pathfinders never saw an SC but the ENGINEs that are leagal for swap are vg30, vg33, vq... etc... That supercharger will easlily pass smog TESTS because it will not boost at idle and it might not boost at cruise if you don't step on the throttle very hard. If nothing else wire the bypass open for the test. I been doin allot of studying on this SC and its bigger brother the M90. They are pretty awesome and almost like they are not even there when it comes to emissions testing and or casual driving MPG. Now put it to the floor and it goes from tame to beast in a heartbeat.

20 over is VG31. lol still you'll feel that, and the cams, you'll feel those too. It will be allot more peppy then it was when you tore it down. I'm not saying its going to be something fast but it will put you head and sholders above any 3.0 with headders and CAI. And even further ahead if you have headders and CAI. Enjoi. P.S. The stock range Plug, NGK heat "6", (bkr6ey) Should be plenty sufficient. You won't need to move heat range unless you bumped the compression up to 10:1 or added forced induction like turbo or SC.

How did you set and check the tension if you didn't tighten the nut?

I lost my honda a few years ago because I couldn't afford to put stock tires on it. The PO had low profile slicks on the damned wagon. It only took a little bit of oil on the wet on-ramp and I was playin pin-ball with the guard rails.

The t-bar is "anchored" on both ends. One anchor is the ajuster. The other anchor is on the control arm. It looks like a trapizoid with a splined hole in it for both the t-bar and the bolt head you are trying to remove. unbolt it and remove it.

Has the T-bar anchor that both the bolt and T-bar slide into been removed? spray some PB blast all around and get a cheap rivet gun (air hammer) You don't need a big one, but the additional vibration will help the The PB blast penetrate and break it loose from the bushing sleeve inside there.

If they were originally hat washers they would completely Isolate it but I don't see why you would need that. u sure its not just hard dried out rubber meant to absorb vibration or squish a little if the rail need to seat more? P.S. your link don't work. rubber washers and nylon washers can be found at the harware store.

The bearing is fairly easy to replace if you some basic hand tools and a few correct punches. Nobody lists the specific part so you would have to take it in and get it measured and see how long it takes to get ordered(or it might just be on the shelf) There is also a bushing, on the lower part of the saft. not as easy to change but rock auto sells the bushings...

The mechanical fan works great, these rigs cool very easy. But I still rather have my electric, here are some comparisons I've made as far as before and after. A cluch fan is always turning even when its not fully engaged. when it gets -10 below out I can make the short drive to work and back before the coolant reaches 180 degrees. I used to park right up against walls and idle my engine to help it warm up. Now a fan only taxes the alty when its running and MY fan only draws 18 amps and moves 3,300 CFM. Many fans draw more and move less. This is great in the winter, the fan almost never runs the engine warms up faster and for the most part, uses the coolant thermostat ONLY to regulate its temperature. infact For the most part it only runs for a few seconds at a time before reaching its set shut-off point so 90% of the time when I'm headding down the road it won't be on. the e-fan, when set up properly can offer much more precise control of you engine temps becase its ajustable. It can also be set up to assist your A/C and it lifts right out with your radiator when its time to do your timing belt, so one less thing to remove there. thermostat changes can be done in 20min when there is no belt fan to reach arround, its a fun little toy, I have a shut off switch for water and a Full on switch to pre-cool it before I shut it off so that it will say in safe range on the aproach. I actually did feel a differance once I did the swap and i'm sure it was good for a 1/2~1/4 mpg too. You don't need one but you are allowed to like having one.

not sure wich method nissan uses but there are several out there; tapered cam lobes; can be pused side to side by a solenoid so that a differant part of the cam is used in each rpm range. Hydraulic lock or magnetic lock cam gears; that hold the cam at differant degees depening on magnetic current or oil preassure. Varible lifters; increase lift when oil ps rises or event timing if a secondary lifter engages. there's more methods out there and I would also like to know which one nissan uses...

I'm not an r50 guy but I would start with a good trany cooler. 18,000GVW or more.

the dizy is esay to swap, JY dizy's are cheap reman dizy's are very expesive becasue almost all of them come with (expensive) angle sensors. a correct size bearing, from a bearing shop, is $10 if you feel up to the task I can walk you thru it.

well this did start as a wd21 thread and me telling sewbster he can change his springs and not worry about HIS front shocks. then you came along and asked a question thinking it pretained to your rig. easy mix up.

PS. I made this vid of my fan a while back. enjoi.

Ok lets start with why and open does not cause you to spin; when you loose traction on an open the wheel that has the most traction stops turning and the wheel that has the least spins feely at nearly double its original speed. In a turn this free spin causes the vehcle to slow down untill both tires have equal traction. In a straight line the same thing happens. Ok Now imagine the opposite For LSD's and Lockers, Imagine a RIG with just one wheel in the back. Since that one wheel is off to one side its gonna push the vehicle off to one side. Now even tho the other wheel is still there it doesn't do anything to counter-act this force becasue it has no traction. In a turn this side push can do 2 things; follow the vehcles momentem and put you into a spin push the opposite way and cause an understeer. or in rare cases a counter-spin In a straight line the effect of the the direction is fairly random, you may just go a straight line or it may buck/spin to the left or right. In both cases the situation only contiunes to unravel if the traction wheel is allowed to break loose because now you have 2 wheels that are spining and not counteracting any of the momentum you already have. Easy solutions; when in a turn on wet roads or other low-traction surfaces if you notice any type of over steer or understeer ease off of the gas. if you know its slipery make a habbit of breaking before the turn and coasting thru the turn aplying power only after your vehicle has straigtened out. ease off the gas anytime you feel like you may be losing control but don't be too quick to break either. Make your steering corrections sublte and slow because when both wheels are spinning your stering can over-react to your input. Don't floor it arround corners. Learning; (and this is good for any vehicle thats new to you) go to an empty lot, acelerate hard, brake hard turn hard. this is not about pusing the vehicles limits, this about learing how it handles normally when you need to do one of those things on the road with people arround. Now go back on a rainy day, on a snow day etc and do the same. Again this is not about pushing the limits this is about learning how to be safe so DO NOT get caried away. Note the differances, and practice the tips above for overcoming the handling issues that arrise on the rainy lot. Only engage your locker when you need it.

OPEN THE CARIER on the inside of the hinge is a hole for a grease needle... make sure it latches tight...

I've done em, (wet pavement) just be real ready on the thottle because about the 3rd time you cross your own tire tracks it will grab and pitch you. So let off as soon as you start to feel it buck and find a new patch of pavement.

I'm gonna have to dis-agree. yes each valve is smaller but if you add up the area of 2 smaller cirlces they can be less than half the size of a larger one and sill flow more. The thing is the DOHC (KA & VG) were nissans turning point into aiming for HIGER rpm power bands(they only went higer from there like the VQ35HR). To get some monster low end torqe out of a VG30DE all you have to do is advance the intake cam by 3-5 degrees and leave the exhaust cam stock.

are you kidding? VG30DE's make just as much power as a VG33E (oooh VG33DE's are fun) and almost as much power and VG30ET's The DOHC has a much more useable range of power in both turbo and NA versions. We just bash it because we don't have it and its too big to easliy retrofit...

YOU were here just now!!! Ok really, Camera1 ,try it, anything can be done if your dedicated enough. Its just been said that its not easy and yes we get a little rude about repeat questions but if your seirous about this; we have not seen it done before so your gonna have to come up with your own answers and then document it so the next bold person knows what's ahead of them when they see your thread. we did have another member who said they were gonna show us up... I don't ever remeber seeing it done. Maybe he gave up or maybe made him mad and never showed us. Please show us when you succeed...