MY1PATH

I hope you got one that has rollers and not glides, the glides saw through over the years... Are the window switches on both doors connected? Are all the fuses good? Does your car have a bad window control module? (opens window all the way in 1 push also controls normal operation of driver window)

#2 Own one, had it fail and cause me to blow a coolant line on the trail, when I got home I rebuilt it recognized the design flaws and I WOULD NOT recommend for trail use or wet environments. I Also do not recommended for fans exceeding 35a start up and 20 continuous. I gave my feedback to Flex A Lite about how the design could be improved they said thank you and sent me a product several notches higher than what I was suggesting. (that's the short version don't get any sneaky ideas) #3 What I received to replace the other unit. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this unit. The controller is epoxy encased and is a solid state electronic controller. (no moving parts to fail, no contacts to burn and no exposed circuits to corrode) Plus it has a soft start feature that allows it to turn heavy fans at a lower amperage until they get moving. This is very kind to your electrical system.

Is that the same for the wd21's too?

What Is the purpose? I think its to make sure I have enough fuel pressure to reliably do whatever I want in the future... This mod only applies to cars, none of the vg3x trucks received Variable pump control.

I recently Bypassed the Variable voltage/pump speed system and here's how... The variable voltage wire never goes below 9v and Nissan standard relays only need 9v to function. (maybe a little more when they are cold) I spliced the variable wire with the other ecu wire for the relay to help it pull the relay open on cold start ups (when the relay may be a little stubborn for 9v) and then ran the splice to the relay. Fuel Fuse>>> Relay Coil>>> variable (104) spliced with relay trigger (18) Fuel Fuse>>> Relay Closed>>> Fuel Pump>>> Ground I have a Fuel Pressure Guage on and before the mod I noticed that even if I pinched the return line my idle pressure barely stayed above 30PSI. This is what made me want to do the mod because I was concerned about it not being able to keep up at idle once I go to a 3.3 block and or e85. since it only provided JUST ENOUGH and Nothing more on a gasoline 3.0. After the relay mod my idle pressure was 36 and if I pinched the return line it would climb to the low 60's.

Yes but a WD21 ECU IS TUNED FOR REGULAR. My M30 ECU IS TUNED FOR PREMIUM. I can actually FEEL the power increase and SEE the MPG gain when I switched to mid-grade. anyway, moving on...

yep 1 7/8" OD is what my pipes were. I think its a metric thing.(48mm) All OE replacement pipes come 2"OD because they are US Standard production. and BTW this thread is 5 years dead.

Regular, Mid grade and Premium all have the same amount of energy. OCTANE is how slow it burns and its resistance to detonation. Considering the M30 was listed by the MFR as Premium gas only it makes senses that the ECU is NOT programmed for Regular because it burns too fast for its programmed injection delay and ignition curve.

I am guilty of both; to solve the drive shaft I put a spacer underneath the transmission pad to raise the shaft above the cross member a little. I have had no ill effects and I think My #6 spark plug is slightly easier to reach lol.On the shock, its actually the axle-side pan-hard bracket when left wheel is stuffed and the right wheel is dropped. Still haven't fixed it but I'm gonna chop the bracket at an angle and weld a low-profile re-enforcement back in ALSO check your brake line and e-brake lines, you do not want to be hanging by those and that does happen when you drop that far.

Lay the 3.0 gasket on the 3.3 head and mark where the water/oil ports mismatch and then open up to you marks with a dremel and all will be fine. Lots of people do it this way including the guys on Moto IQ (project pathfinder) Check the holes on the headers, you want 11mm holes for the 10mm studs. (7/16" drill will do nicely) use the pathfinder manifold, keeps things simple. The 3.3 manifold has no place to mount your ignition components and has different idle controls and cold idle controls that are prone to dripping coolant on your headers and cracking them. Simply Put, the 3.3 manifold provides no benefit and only makes things complicated if you try and put it in a wd21. I had 3.3 and 3.0 manifolds side by side at Davids house when I was doing my MPFI swap.

By High side I mean HIGH pressure side, It probably has a cap with the letter H on it and it might be red or heat-faded-pink. Actually? I don't think anybody talked about the HIGH side port? I only said "higher" as in "85 psi or Higher"

My1Path wants to know; "What is Throttle Body Injection?" (TBI) when you are in there take a CLOSE look at your mixture heater, if it has any signs of cracking do not put that back in there it can ruin your engine when it falls apart.

yeah, It will go down when the compressor is running but it creeps back up after the compressor stops. This is where not getting carried away comes into play...You may learn more than I can say in one post if you go to www.nicoclub.com/fsm and read the HA section for your vehicle.

Clean the injector plug with fine sandpaper or a jewelers file and test again, they are very prone to corrosion

You need at least one large can and one SMALL can of oil (if its not in the large can) for a fresh fill. (you can do without the oil if you are sure nothing misted or dripped when you opened the system) most cans will say tilt horizontal every 3 seconds so the compressed liquid spills in with the gas. THE FSM actually says the system volume is 1.65-1.87 LBS of refrigerant @ 85 PSI or higher. ... You won't feel anything good if your Low side is under 60 PSI Do not get carried away on the "or higher" just shoot for 90 and you will enjoi lots of cold air again

fold up some 200 grit sandpaper or a jewelers file and sand the terminals and measure again. The oe injector connections are very prone to corrosion.

I Did and I got 20mpg on the way down and roughly 16mpg over the whole trip. (Temporary O2 harness melted on the exhaust I think that drug it down some.) Today, the last of my running problems seems to have been solved; I had been having some hesitation and low power in the low RPM range and today I put 20 gallons of mid-grade in there and the problem went away. The m30 specifies premium and I suspect regular just wasn't cutting it at idle the way the ECU is programmed. Yes, Yes I ran 87 in the M30 but it was Auto an the torque converter would mask a problem like that especially since the car weighs about 1/2 of a pathy. Time to get the A/C running again and... permanently seal the harness.

My Mistake, I though the whole neck had to be opened up on the z31 manifold.

I forgot to mention that part, but the Pathfinder manifold opens up really quick after the TB so you can actually open it up to 60 really quickly with a dremel using a 60mm gasket as your guide. MUCH easier than the other style manifolds.

ONce I work out all the other bugs and get my foot out of the skinny pedal I'll be able to report some consistent MPG numbers. I've been messing around with the timings and getting heat measurements so I've been spending allot of time at Idle not driving. I did notice that the timing only advances about 20 degrees from its base setting. Do any of you guys know if the Pathfinder MPFI advances more, I have not taken the time to look at the wife's stock MPFI but I know my TBI used to advance at least 30 degrees.

I would ask them to measure the manifold side of the bore just to be sure. Since the 54mm VG and 60mm KA TB's come from the same casting its very easy for a seller to get them mixed up when they sell lots of car parts from lots of vehicles. At a glance the stanza, z31, 200sx se v6, and m30 TB's all look the same. Same sensor, same linkage, same, bolt pattern same OD, same Id at the opening. The only difference is the bore and butterfly, So just by looking I could not tell you if that was it or if it was incorrectly listed...

Looks like a big project, good luck. I might add that the Restrictive MAF is kind of pathfinder specific. The n60 MAF I am running with the M30 ECU is over 75mm on the inside and only has a tiny probe hanging down to take the air reading. As far as the TB goes, the KA24 TB found in a Nissan Stanza is 60mm vs the stock 54mm for pathfinder. In stock form the 54mm TB yeilds no restriction as a a vacuum gauge reads 0 (zero) at WOT reline. 60mm will feel more responsive but the linkage and TPS are on opposite sides. You can run it upside down or you can install the pathfinder linkage and TPS on it. The bolt pattern is the same and both TB's are actually machined from the same casting. ones, just bored out a little bigger and the Spring post is pressed in at a different spot.

I blew a bypass hose on the trail and lost all my coolant. This is that short little hose behind the timing cover PITA to get to on the trail and we didn't a hose that small... we ended up using the old hose as a reducer inside a larger hose and stealing the clamps from the radiator to match the larger diameter. So now we have a larger, stiffer and not pre-bent hose going into a really tight space and it starts snowing. Hands are getting cold, engine sitting so its cold too and trying to shove my fingers and an over sized wrong hose between my intake manifold and my timing cover. YAY We'll we got it in the end and I drove the rest of the day with my radiator cap loose too keep the pressure from blowing our repair.

It feels the same in the mid to low range but it seems to have a little more power up top. I have connected my Tach Which does NOT got to the Tach Wire on the ECU with TBI clusters, it has to be spliced with Pin #2 on the M30 ecu (resistor for the coil) The tach wire on the ECU speaks a different language, probably for MPFI clusters. I also added the VSS which was pre-wired from the factory just plug it in, find the other end taped off and burred in the harness and use it. Its been running good and code free for a few days now. I am still undecided on weather or not I should hook up the Neutral position switch to the ECU. It idles smoothly but goes into High Idle (like warm up) every time I stop after a few min of cruising. I think this largely has to do with my intake spacer and the removal of the coolant lines. I am guessing there is about a 100F spread between upper and lower manifold temps and I can comfortably rest my hand on the upper when the lower is too hot to touch. The stock coolant line in the manifold passes right by the Idle Air Regulator and keeps it hot. This and a heating element inside the Air Regulator keep the air valve shut when the engine is warm but I'm thinking I may need to make a phenolic gasket to isolate the regulator from the Upper Manifold so it does not rob heating element inside the regulator of its heat when driving. I'm going to break out the laser thermometer so I will have actual temperature data to report soon. Still left on my list to wire is the New A/C layout that cuts the A/C under acceleration.

It feels pretty good, I don't have a good feel on how much stronger I think it is but it is stronger. Maybe 10-15 hp but the door is now open to so many other things like NisTune, larger injectors, specific tuing for larger engines, boost etc... BTW I know you meant well earlier, just keep in mind that redundacny gets on peoples nerves.