MY1PATH

did it mess anything up? Valves slap or bend, anything broken?

any first gen pathy (1986-1995) will be a 2wd or a 4wd(4x4 yada....) the way I look at it 4wd, 4 wheel drive & 4x4 put you in control of when your using 4 wheels. awd(all wheel drive) on the other hand means all wheels all the time (like a subaru) I agree with redfinder(he would cheer you for getting a red pathfinder) it looks pretty good. IMO the 1st gen pathys were are the best trail vhecles nissan ever made.

maybe if you firmly pull the lever about 1/4" in the wrong direction in (when in the up pos) and then pull lever in the fold direction and push back on the seat no?

yes, I'm sure that's well over 220 tq to the wheels (in low)but I think you know what I meant.

Last time I got my engine bay all dirty I just sprayed it w/ a hose (after it had cooled for a coulple hrs) then I ran ran it for a while to dry it out. I don't know if this is the best method but I haven't noticed any I'll effects from it.

Ok lemie rephrase; I would have been nice if the wd21s and d21s put down 220ft lbs of torque to the wheels.

yeh the bright green... makes me queasy... BRB-

The 170 HP maxima was a vg30de and the pathfinder ran the vg30e. d was the letter given for dual overhead cams and I belive it featured a chain-driven timing. Anyway the blocks are essentially the same but the de heads are much wider (I'm guessing a chaindriven DOHC makes the whole thing longer too) and I think getting it to fit would have been a challenge. This is an aditional theroy; what if the de was also running a lighter flywheel for more hp (@ the cost of less tq) and to put a flywheel fit for a 4wd truck whould bring the hp back down to lets say 160. then they would have been trying to put in a different engine for barely 10 more ponies... On the other hand I do see where your coming from, 150bhp which comes out to 120whp (@ best) leaves a bit to be desired woulda been great if they were designed to put 200 to the wheels.

You may not get many hits becuse of what your getting into here.... Often when you change a exhaust manifold on these vehicles you encounter broken studs which themseves are a source of noise if your manifold isn't already damaged. this requires drilling and extracting whats left of the stud so you can replace it with another stud (or switch to a bolt). If you drill crooked you drill into your head and have to re-thread the hole to a larger size or use a heli-coil. there is a write up in the how-to for replacing broken studs but belive me, its usually a bitch. swapping the manifold itself is pretty easy tho as there is allot of room to work esp if you pull out the wheels and mud shields out and work thru the wheel well. I'm assuming your manifold(s) are cracked since you say its so loud. I have my old ones (I now run thorley headders) if you wanna pay to ship em. but if your gonna change manifolds I'd say its perfect time for you to get headders anyway lol

31x10.50 Is what I run. some rub on front side of plastic fender flares on sharp turns. If 1" off of this point and you will never rub ever!

Last week I had the privilage of riding in the back seat of my Pathy ('89 wd21 xe) for the first time in a long while. It seemed very upright and not so comfy because of that. Yesterday it crossed my mind to try and modify the folding mecanism to allow a reclined position(s). I folded the seat and pulled up the carpet... $#*t It already has a reclinging mechanism! Almost 20 yrs arround this vehice and I never new. All those 7-8hr roadtrips w/ my parrents that could've been more comfrtable. Or the 14hrs my 2 friends spent back there on a certain trip back home. Jeez!

we both noticed it was Idling pretty rough, if its a mechanical fan that could be the cause.

I got hit by a chevy blazer the other day knocked my Pathy sideways at least a foot... He had to have it towed out and the engine wasn't shonding right after the hit... But the Pathy on the other hand was still able to drive me to work with no aprearant driving issues... I think the tire carier helped to spread out allot of the impact. the only not-so obvious damage is a small dent in my back door and the back door frame got pushed over about 1/2". I gotta get that straigtened or the door shaved for it to close w/o hitting the tail light b4 I get a new light. I was thinking about getting some Black Altezza TailLights but they only list them for hardbodies they look the same shape as pathy lights and I know allot of parts are inter-changable between the d21 & wd21 Does anybody know if lights will fit?

goto 4x4parts.com and order a brace for your exising idler arm or purenissan.com for the beefy one made by calmini. If your old one is worn out get a new one from the HW store to go with your brace. Note MOOG & TRW (and similar style) idler arms are in-compatible with the brace. If you want guarenteed fit with a bace get an OEM idler arm of a Spicer Idler arm. and yes many here would say the brace is a must for bigger tires edit; I have the hoohaa CL and it works great!

have you tried taking your wheel off and reaching from there?

i guaruntee tHAT doing a sas will permenantly eliminate your t-bar poblems

I also agree getting awinch hitch is the way to go, u can use it front and back that way and they already make winch mounts for a 2" reciever.

a yes that too! looks like a flower-shaped wrech goes on it, dono why they did that, but a chanel-lok should be able to snug it.

Isnt the oil flilter above the starter? No, maybe its a little foward and up but it still wouldnt hurt to look.

JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE or JGC coils work too. try the search function with someting like "jgc coil"

Any aftermarket torsion bar will provide a stiffer ride than stock. This is often reccomended to counteract the weight of heavy bumpers and winches. If your looking to save $$ just get UCA's(crank on stock bars), Rancho 2" lifted shocks and Jeep Grand Cherokee coils from a junker. (use the search to find out which year/model coil specs etc) If you want the complete package and your not as consiervetive on $$$ I'd look into the Calmini setup. I comes with everyting above, t-bars, panhard relocator, brake line extensions and more.

In standard not metric; what are the HP/Torque specs of the TD27?

@ start up when its cold I get that sound but a little higer pitched only lasts 45 sec max usally not more thatn 10 sec. I Mine anit a header leak, I got thorley headers and it still does it. when it does it on a warm day its usually about 2500 since the last oil change and I add 1/2 qt and try to remember to change the oil in another thousand miles or so. My guess is its a lifter or valve slap from a not closing fast enough but w/ no ill effects over the years I'm not too worried. I am concerned about yours tho, going constant like that....

I didn't do it all myself but some notes one my thorley install are on this page. I picked up @ least 2mpg from them too. (about 20mpg higway now) dealing with broken studs will be the worst part everything else is not so bad in compare.

IMO IFS swaybars only reduce body roll and have no impact on articulation