MY1PATH

I'm pretty sure calmi uses the MOOG OEM style replacement and can be found @ any parts store. The T-bars are not a must unless you want stiffer suspension or you want to prevent bottoming out too easy with the weight of an extra heavy bumper and/or winch. IMO go I would go with the calmini just cause I like having a done deal like that + I think the calmini UCA's look stronger. I like blue so that by itself makes it worth every penny.... JK but blue is still nice.

3/4 to 1" uca bumpstop gap is good, that way you still have some downtravel. the reason you didn't hit after craninkg 3" out of the t-bar is bcause they have sagged from age so your first 1" was prolly back up to stock and the other 2" is just more . as for the alignement issue take one of your uca blolts out and bring it to a bolt shop or specialty hardware store ( using a diferant vehicle of course) and get 4 longer bolts so that the alignment shop has enough bolt to give you a proper alignement. about a 1/4" longer should be enough (thats what I got) I don't know how long you can go b4 bottoming out on something. anyway 4 of these should run you about 30 bucks, put them in yourself and the alignment shop should be able to get you aligned just fine.

It neat to see you look back on your experience. Hopefully I don't look back and have too many regrets with my WD21. In 19 yrs I only have a few; Dad getting hit hit the day he bought it in 89 (a life of alignment challenges) Hitting a quad jump from the landing side instead of the launch shide ( I hit the launch the first time and it was awesome!) altho I think it did help the alignement issue even tho it messed up allot more lol. ...But I guess so far my list only includes errors not mods mainly because for 18 yrs its been a mostly stock toy. now that its mine the mod list has been getting put together and I'll try to choose carefully.

You can also goto his site grassroots4x4.com

Some Of it is going towards new wheels (soon) and the rest is being saved for a 3.5L stroker (a bit later)

All the minerals (incl salt) in a hot spring cant be too friendly on a vehicle can it? I soppose if you wash it well when yer done wheelin it don't matter tho. just my $.02

I think the socket may be bad, solder in a new pair of 9004 sockets and see what happens.

go to the store and buy whats called a back tap. use it, b4 you get it out far enough to see the treads take a scibe, a tool steel poker or thin screwdriver and jab @ the gasket. hammering the poker and using PB blaster Penitrating oil will help. once the gasket is free finsh removing the backtap with the gasket on it. you now have it off w/ no extra dirt in the engine.

OE w/ brace it is then!

IME the best on-road tire for me has been the Uniroyal Laredo. It has lasted a long time and is still decent if you get in to a hairy travel situation off road. I don't know if they make it the same (or even at all) anymore but the thick too muti-ply casing (can't remember how many but more than 3) made for a firm ride even when PSI was running a little low and I never had a flat with them.

Bearing races DOH! I bet I coulda found those cheaper than $40 @ nissan. anyway do you know if these other ppl just slide them on the rod beteen the busshing and the frame and call it a day or do the weld them in place to prevent shifting of the rod?

I have a hoohaa CL do you think reaming out my tapers and convering to heim joints is a good idea?

What does the factory sevice manual say for the 4wd compression/tension rod bushings? I went and got energy suspension bushings for them but now I find the factory bushing cups are shot. I heard somwhere that they are originally tacked in place. does it say anyting about that or do I just new cups from nissan and slide them in?

how does the one-off steering setup work? advantages? Better yet whats the advantage of replacing TREs with Heim Joints?

In the beginning I had a the 18" long 2.5"magnaflow spiced into stock exhaust. It sounded better but thats about it. Now I have headders, Magnaflow 2.25" cat and 14" long 2.25 magnaflow mufler with a 90 deg dump above the rear control arm right b4 my sway bar (had to trim the bar a little) To cutback on backfiring/ popping noise I kept the stock midpipe b4 the cat and I used 2" pipe after the mufler. I think it sounds the best it ever will, I really like it.

look closely, I see it.

If your looking to rebuid your cluster or add new guages go to summitracing.com If you just want the white overlays for your existing guages check ebay, they pop up there from time to time.

why does the 3" cost less than the 2" doesn't the 3" come with more stuff like brackets and extentions?

A 3.3L out of a later model pathy will bolt right on, use your old intake manifolde TB sensors etc so you don't need to update your computer. swap the crank and cam gears over so you can use your original accesories. vg33 motors can be found on the JDM market for less than 2g

wow I almost thought I was looking @ my own pathy only I used a single filter. I never said anyting about overheating, IMO letting oil cool a little b4 going back to the engine is good for the engine but maybe it doesn't make any differance since its gone 18yrs w/o it. I don't know. we Can all agree that no matter where you put it; it will make it easier than trying to squeze filter between the headers each time?yeh?

ABS = Antilock Brake System Locked brake / wheel = a wheel/break that is no longer spinning. If the vehicle is still moving this means the wheel is skidding or sliding locking up = a wheel / brake approacing the locked brake condition ABS control module uses a wheel speed sensor on each wheel so it knows that all wheels are traveling @ the same speed. when you hit the brakes (mostly on slippery condidtions or when you hit them hard in good conditions) it makes sure that none of the wheels lock up. so if you need to stop and one wheel rolls over and oil patch the wheel speed sensor will see that wheel slowing down and the ABS will reduce brake preassure to that wheel while increasing brake preassure to the other wheels. because that wheel did not become locked the vehilce was able to slow down without swerving or pulling. rubber stops you best when its just below flirting with that fine line between slipping (locked) and gripping pavemtent. the ABS controls your bakes to keep you close to that line while trying not to let you cross it. You may have noticed the light comes on (when it was working properly) while brakeing really hard, then again maybe you didn't notice the light because of the reason you were braking really hard. (damn j-walkers) anyway I helped a friend whith is pontiac, the wheel speed sensor was integrated into the wheel bearing, we were actually chaning the bearing but it comes as one unit can do one without the other. For your sake I hope it is simpler than this since I'm gessing changing a wheel bearing on a pathy is a little harder thatn a pontiac G6

I don't think it matters where it goes. I guess me and jj big shoe like the x-member cause its easy for oil changes, it leaves the engine bay a little cleaner and unless you get hung up on a really odd shaped rock its pretty wel protected. I also noticed that having the oil pass thru filter that is away from a central heat source allows the oil temps to be a little bit cooler. Not as effective as an actual oil cooler but still has some benifit vs having it under the hood (which I have done also).

If you notice in my first post one of the names I gave it was "compression/tension rod"... on the 2wd (its front of the LCA) so the LCAs pull back on it while driving forward. hence the name "tension rod" on the 4wd (its behind the LCA) so in 2wd the LCAs push against it and in 4wd pull awayfrom it, all while driving foward hence the name "compression/tension rod" or "compression rod" if you wanna only consider its 2wd aplicaton on the 4wd vehicle. they are not interchangable and everywhere you look prolly has the 2wd and 4wd under the same name. so just make sure it specifies the correct drive train(2wd only or 4wd only) and you will be fine. Still lost? ok your profile says '93 4wd XE... GOTO ABCnissanwholesale.com >nissan replacement parts (on the left side) >year model... >front suspensoin >lower control arm >strut > Strut, pathfinder - 4wd - 4WD that'll be the one you want its the same left to right, and tho their drawing only shows the 2wd version you will get the right part and you prolly can't beat ~$30 shipped for a new OEM part like that!

ABCnissanwholesale.com It also goes by many names and that makes it harder to find. I think nissan calles it comperssion/tension rod, but it may also ba sold as strut rod, control arm rod, caster rod, strut arm and.... well I think I got em all. you may want to have a drif pin ready too when you install it as those 2 bolts for it on the contol arm may need some persuasoin.

yeh, um... I never had a problem with the oil filter. I figured it may become a PITA once my Doug Thorleys go in so I used a relocator kit b4 I did my headers. now my filter is mounted above my trany x-member and REALLY EASY TO GET TO! If your headders are right against the oil filter (I'm guessing there's next to no room) You may have to get creative... as in 1) remove the headder and then install a relocator kit so you don't have to worry about it again. or 2) take a jab-saw cut off half the filter and remove the rest with a band-type filter wrench and then install a relocator kit so you don't have to worry about it again. if there is enough room to get a new filter in let us know, I might just switch back