MY1PATH

^better not get caught < likes to play with fire V prolly wants to stay away from <, ^ and 2^

^should use a torch, get carried away and go BOOM! JK Be careful < Never had to use a torch to free any bolt on his pathy V wishes they had a toch 'cause thier bolts are stuck bad

^wishes they could <about to play a movie/drinking game V wants to join in

^should be nice and cook me some breakfast <Is hungry V wonders whats 4 breakfast

should I replace it then?

Right after insalling and having it all back together I took it on the freeway to warm it up b4 checking the timing with the new coil. I got a check engine light (first time in almost 20 yrs) on the way back and it went out b4 I got back. with the bigger coil the timing had advanced to almost 20BTDC (WOW didn't think it would do that) I was really worried that I F*@#'d something up or that the new coil was just too much for it to handle. I ran ECU diagnostics and got code 11 and 45 11 is crank angle sensor and I'm guessing it freaked out becsue the timing was too far advanced. 45 is injector leak- hmm I cleared the codes and let it run... the light would come on every time I stepped on the gass now. ceck... code 45 ONLY. seached parts america & abc nissan, TBI injectors are expensive! searched here and read that other used injector cleaner and solved it... poured a little LUCAS INJECTOR CLEANER in the tank let it run, rev'd and no light drove it and no light hopefully it stays this way. Kinda glad the light wasn't somthing too serious. gave me a scare for a bit. edit: what do yall think about the code 11? should I be worried? It hasn't come back.

I replaced my ignition coil with at Summit high energy coil this weekend and I pulled some other stuff to get in there easier. one of the pieces is a round thing that is all rusted up on the inside and whatever goes thru it is leaving a rust colored stain on the inside of the fenderwell below it. I was able to wipe off the stain so no real rust exept inside the part (phew) Anybody know what this thing does? I assume its for emissions, can I live w/o it? edit: If these pix still haven't come up you can view them all here

I recently emailed 4x4parts.com asking them whats all included in their 2" bodylift with the intent of going and making my own 1" BL. I thought this was pretty neat and may go with that instead of making my own. I just thought I'd put that out there for any other oddball who might be looking for just 1"

^wrong, would have to fillm me when he's done < smashing the fog lights while hitting quad jumps in his pathy did not teach him his lessong. V whishes they saw all the jumps that day.

^Better Not get pulled over (cops can be annoying) <gets to shoot M-16 today V wishes they could shoot rifles instead of work (and still get paid)

^Is wrong <On the clock 24/7 but regularly works 9-10hr shifts 5 days a week V would be earning Overtime if they worked my hours

I could be wrong but I think they are the same. Mines like 70" wide Fenerflare to fenderflare (mirrors foled) and.....measuring..... 70" tall to the top of wind-deflector & roofrack (68" if you have neither) and about 175" ish bumper to bumper or 185"+ if you have the rear spare. It weighs a little over 3600LBs (back seats pulled out, spare and tire carier removed and a few other things pulled) so as shipped prolly about 3700 I have an old article here saying the 4dr had a curbweight of 3800.

^Wishes that was true <Did NEW cap, rotor, and wires. Did not do COIL & Has to go to work (swingshift) V Works a day sift

I'm sure he gets it. and I'm sure he'll be safe. BUT HONESTLY, AREN'T YOU CURIOUS? wouldn't it be neat to see? Make a good youtube video...

^can't Catch me! <Caught some time to work on my pathy (needs to catch $$$) V wishes they had time for thiers right now

me and allot of my friends have been going to Quality brake & muffler In Tacoma. Every time we go I have seen good work, good prices and honest workmanship. these guys are really kool the only thing the won't do is change out broken manifold studs. Take 74th st (west) exit off of I-5 to south Tacoma Way. Then head NORTH (right turn) on South Tacoma Way towards 66th St. Just after 66Th you should see a YELLOW building on the right with a car on the roof. That's IT!

yes! and I wanna see it shoot sideways!

Also my personal favorite! IMO; The shorter ones and the round ones are louder, the longer and oval ones are quiter. 2" will give plenty of flow and be quiet and 2.5" will be a bit louder but may may not offer enough back-preassure if you have headders IMO (based off of the many configurations tried with my '89 VG30i but the VG33e in the R50 might be just fine with 2.5") Magnaflow offers their popular glass pack and also a 3 chamber that flows great but is really quiet.

I kinda wanna see how far the rear end will scoot under heavy throttle before somthing breaks... lol

ok, thanks for setting me straight.

I would not reccoment using 4-HI on wet roads unless the roads have lots (as in basically flooded) of standing water on them and travel under 35mph when doing so. 4-HI is for low traction conditons like gravel, dirt, snow, ice, mud etc. Yes wet roads have decreased traction over dry roads but its still enough traction to put un-nessescary additonal wear on your tires. Your front diff is also not lsd so locking them into our driveline (both auto and manual locks) creates additonal wear arrond turns. from a mechanical standpoint I belive the reason 4wd creates additonal wear is because I think the t-case puts more power to the front wheels so that your vehcle can pull you outta tight spots with the front rather than have the back wheels push you in deeper. low traction surfaces give enough to not put too much wear on anything but on paved roads this would create the effect of your front weels pulling the back wheels faster than they want to spin.

TrailChaser, I've watched your videos a few times I was wondering if you taped any more progress.

I don't think there is too much harm. A lot of ppl add and extra QT of redline to thier manual trans(after its already full) to make cold shifting smoother. The fill pulg will only let you fill so much before it spills back out of the tranny so overfilling requires lifinging one side of the vehile higer than the other, an overfil spout (aftermaket part that you prolly don't have) or remove the shifter (manual) and pour in form the top. chances are your mechanic did none of these he just filled to the plug and that ammount was "~0.8" more than the minimum reccmended level. I'm sure other will agree that your fine.

Is there any harm in running an upgraded coil? I already have one and I wanna make sure that I dont have to dig up a OE coil somwere so that I get the most benifit.

A guy I work with is doing this to his jeep, we were talking about it and he said that I did it I should get stainless valves and stainless exhaust because there will constantly be a little bit-o-water dripping thru your system that wasn't fully converted. I told him I thought that the temp that the engine reaches was more than enough to get rid of with any small amount of watter coming across the valves and there'd be none left when it came out the exhaust. (if there really was any to begin with) I dono if thats the right answer or if what he said migt be a consideration for yall but I just thought I'd put that out there.