MY1PATH

I don't think it matters where it goes. I guess me and jj big shoe like the x-member cause its easy for oil changes, it leaves the engine bay a little cleaner and unless you get hung up on a really odd shaped rock its pretty wel protected. I also noticed that having the oil pass thru filter that is away from a central heat source allows the oil temps to be a little bit cooler. Not as effective as an actual oil cooler but still has some benifit vs having it under the hood (which I have done also).

If you notice in my first post one of the names I gave it was "compression/tension rod"... on the 2wd (its front of the LCA) so the LCAs pull back on it while driving forward. hence the name "tension rod" on the 4wd (its behind the LCA) so in 2wd the LCAs push against it and in 4wd pull awayfrom it, all while driving foward hence the name "compression/tension rod" or "compression rod" if you wanna only consider its 2wd aplicaton on the 4wd vehicle. they are not interchangable and everywhere you look prolly has the 2wd and 4wd under the same name. so just make sure it specifies the correct drive train(2wd only or 4wd only) and you will be fine. Still lost? ok your profile says '93 4wd XE... GOTO ABCnissanwholesale.com >nissan replacement parts (on the left side) >year model... >front suspensoin >lower control arm >strut > Strut, pathfinder - 4wd - 4WD that'll be the one you want its the same left to right, and tho their drawing only shows the 2wd version you will get the right part and you prolly can't beat ~$30 shipped for a new OEM part like that!

ABCnissanwholesale.com It also goes by many names and that makes it harder to find. I think nissan calles it comperssion/tension rod, but it may also ba sold as strut rod, control arm rod, caster rod, strut arm and.... well I think I got em all. you may want to have a drif pin ready too when you install it as those 2 bolts for it on the contol arm may need some persuasoin.

yeh, um... I never had a problem with the oil filter. I figured it may become a PITA once my Doug Thorleys go in so I used a relocator kit b4 I did my headers. now my filter is mounted above my trany x-member and REALLY EASY TO GET TO! If your headders are right against the oil filter (I'm guessing there's next to no room) You may have to get creative... as in 1) remove the headder and then install a relocator kit so you don't have to worry about it again. or 2) take a jab-saw cut off half the filter and remove the rest with a band-type filter wrench and then install a relocator kit so you don't have to worry about it again. if there is enough room to get a new filter in let us know, I might just switch back

There seems to be 2 Differant styles of Idler Arms out there. The OE style which appers to have a stamped uper section, but it can be braced for double shear strength. And the style made by TRW and MOOG which cannot be braced because the bolt cannot come out the other side because a grease port does. On the other hand the MOOG/TRW fully cast Idler arms seem a bit beefier and appears to turn on a larger diamer bearing surface. IN TRUTH THE MOOG / TRW UNITS ARE INFERIOR. THE DIAMETER OF THE BEARING SURFACE IS OF LITTLE USE BECAUSE IT IS NOT TALL ENOUGH TO PREVENT FLEXING. WHEN THE BEARING STARTS TO WEAR IT ALLOWS YOUR CENTER LINK TO FLEX UP AND HIT YOUR FRAME.

I think ppl are misreading the question. I also want to know why on 4x4parts.com the 2" lift cost more $$$ than the 3" lift? the 3" comes with more but cost less. WHY!? I thought the stock w/d21's T-case made the wheels spin a little faster in the front. maybe not as dramatic as running 2 differant gear ratios but maybe more like 9front revolutions=8rear revolutions. Am I wrong?

just go to a parts store and pick up some "sensor safe" RTV silicone with a temp rating of about 300 (higer for head gaskets and headers) any brand should do and that will fill all your needs.

If your going to lift more than 1.25" then I reccomend UCA's or @ the very least 1/2" BallJoint spacers. Don't go with the 1" I've seen things go seriously wrong (too much leverage against the stock UCA every time you hit a bump) The reason you want this is because the more you lift IFS the more you throw off the camber(makes the wheels look like this /-\ instead of this |-|) the alignment shop has to put shims behind your UCA's to correct this untill the run out of bolt. Longer bolts and more shims can lead to more problems. my pathy likes to puke its shims after a hard hit (next alignment I think I'll replace the shims whith washers) now imagine driving your vehicle with 0.6" of play beind one of the UCA bolts beacuse it dumped its shims. And yes D21 and WD21 UCA's are the same.

all that dramma cause he had to walk an extra 10ft. Talk about being pasive agressive! Those kinda behaviors make my blood boil, its a good thing self-control was on your side that night.

I can vouch that the switcing of locks is pretty easy, theres a stamped shim that slides arround the lock on the inside and clips it in place. it shoud slide out with a littte jiggle and your lock will be loose. but before you do that undo the plastic clip coming off the lock from the rod it attaches to. after those steps are done the lock will silde right out. yeh I know, doesn't look too durable right? maybe thats way a guy broke into it by turning the lock w/ a screwdriver... anyway yeh good luck with the rest of it.

my '89 uesd NGK part no. NGK-24602. keep in mind the part no. will be differant depending on the brand and even the supplier. The sensor itself had 2 pugs attached to it (one rectange and one round) and they both plug into the vehicle. I'm pretty sure the 90+ models are differant, an don't they use 2? One before and after the cat?

Here Is the soulution to all your problems!!! AK9849CY 's rig on N4W will never come near a driveshaft

just get on line and look for rock sliders for mid 80's-90's toyota pickup and have them welded on

Talk to steevo or go to ruggedrocks.com he has your bushings there!

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to me a cracked manifold is a good excues to get headers. even a low cost set of pace setters will not crack on you and give improvement on mpg(as long as you drive it the same) my thorleys cost me less than a new set of manifolds but the same might not apply for newer vehicles like yours.

Here's a hard one, I picked up about 2 mpg after I had my Doug Thorleys installed... well actually the first week It went down cause I kept gettin heavy on the gass trying to test 'em out but after learing restraint my higway mpg went up to about 20 (17ish before headders) check your o2 sensof and your Mass AirFlow sensor too. I think theres a MAF cleaning writeup in the how too section here if its dirty that could hurt your mpg too

Were talking about a hydraluic qd system now! and yes it is an expensive theroy to buy 2 hydro rams and a pair of hydro line lockers. Yes the original concept is to assist burnouts and prevent roll-back@ the drag line but many Line lockers have been designed with a built in secondary long term use as an e-brake. yes they are a normally open positon but mfgrs claim the draw so little power to stay locked (about as much as your dash clock)that they could keep your breaks locked (as e-brakes) for up to 6 months on one car battery.

Honestly, I think a bolt is what It is no matter who makes it! I went to a specialty harware store with my old bolt and bought 4 new ones that were longer to allow for more ajustment. I got them in full hardened conditon (grade 10+ equivelant) and I only paid 23 bucks for them.

That cant be right, I'm sure my stock one is as thick or thicker than that. Did you typo?

I think its like 3ish If you buy 4 you'll be fine

I'm starting to fimly belive that the w/d21 croud is best off buying 80's toyota 4runner/pickup parts and adapting them rather than waste time energy and money trying to find nissan specific parts!

If you buy and cut all the parts you could prolly pay somone to weld it up and pay less than you would for a new hitch... the first gen pathys have 4 convieniently located and threaded holes that make this possible for so cheap. 2 of them hold on the front tow loop and there is a matching pair on the other side. The simplest blueprint would be a piece of 3/8 steelplate with a piece of reciver stock welded to it. Pickup the 4 holes, buy some bolts and your done! This should be plenty strong for your accesroies and you can sitll bolt your recovery hook to it. Eventually I'll be doning the same thing but I'll be welding a few gussets so that it'll be strong enough for the hitch itself to use a winch rack.

Interesting, how much is that swaybar gonna flex before you actually feel the the differnce in the right wheel? On second thought, would't that push the body farther away from the right wheel which is the opposite of what a sway bar is trying to do? I see the benifit in an off road situation where the sway bar might be disconnected but in a sharp on-road turn I think you would feel allot more body roll.*visualizes* OH! So if you had that config but with a line locker (like for bakes) between each sides upper port and just an open line between each sides lower port that you have engaged for street and disengaged for offroad. the line locker will prevent the upper ports form exchanging fludis which means the lowers won't either. I wanna try this one day...

I'M gonna take a guess and say 1990 because thats when they went to the vg30e, 4 doors etc.... the spedo in my 89 is driven of a gear in the t-case, you can see a fat cable housing on the end of about a 1" plug screwed into the side of the T-case. Guessing again; yours may be the same place but with wires instead of cable if its electrical Edidt: Calmini t-case gear manual step 3 and 65 show the speedo gear