MY1PATH

go to a JY and take all the headlight brackets of a nissan hardbody pickup (d21). the brackets bolt right up to the pathy because the radiator support is the same between the 2. you'll have to trim your grille, run the hard body grille or no grille for them to fit I think.

ok so I actually have several leaks and most of them only happen @ high RPMs or after everything gets hot. I been parking on white sheets to locate them. the biggest one, I think, was my OIL PS sensor... It was tight but the oil was comming thru the sensor itself and filling my starter, pouring into the bottom of the bell and driping out where the cluch slave cyl is. Hopefully this starter lasts untill I do an engine swap. there is a drop up front every other day that collects on a pointy part infront of the oil pan, fwd main seal? Oil pump? Cam seals? lastly my t-case in 2 places; thru the side of the case where the halves are joined and a drop every so often from the output shaft. for now I'm just gonna keep an eye on all my levels, contemplating if i should get 3.7 t-case gears if I'm gonna open it to re-seal it. I'm not gonna SAS or do crazy rock crawls so it may not be worth it? I had thought about doing 4.10's and 3.7 t-case gears to have a lower low (trial) and a higer HI (MPG)... I guess I should start a new thread when I wanna know everyones opion on that one...

Did you replace the bushing cups too? You may wear out that sleeve again if you don't have anything to keep the rod centered. remeber the parts I showed you....

may I reccomend the pre-built extra leg kit sold on ruggedrocks? when I do sliders I'm gonna use those legs instead of whatever legs come w/ the slider I choose.

the TBI engine specs call for 12 degrees and the MPFI calls for 15 degrees.

you may need to ream the holes on the headders to allow for expansion because the 3.3 heads used bigger studs.

with 15 deg spark timing (instead of 12) and headders I notice a benifit in mpg from running 91 octane. On my tirp to cali last week I got 18.5 mpg carrying 2 passengers, a dog, luggage, lots of holliay gifts for the family, 100lbs of snow & recovery chains, and full size spare on the back. I only used 91 the whole time. Normally I use 91 every other fill (I normally fill @ 1/4 tank) and get pretty decent mileage. the problem with using too hig octane is that it does not ignite as fast. Ideally when the spark hits it, it does not combust undill the downstroke has just started. too high octane and the "flame front" has to catch up to the piston before it can push it and in worst case not finish expanding before the piston starts going up again...

I found some while browsing nissan parts on ebay. Looks like a good deal, good luck. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Acces...A1%7C240%3A1318

If it does can I have it? lol I'll chop it and use it as the bottom mounts for my new bumper.

There are NO HOSES on the ENGINE BLOCK PLUGS only on the radiator plug. but shoving a piece of vaccum line in there quick might give it some direction.

a wider bucket?

that looks like the Pulsed Air Recirculation valve (PAIR) its basically an air pump to put exhaust gasses back in the engine for re-burning. I'd replace it if you want to keep decent gas mileage.

you should have gotten more than 12oz from the radiator... There are also 2 block plugs, one should be behind the alternator and the other should be behind the PS Pump. Don't forget to move your heater to hot so the heater core gets drained too.(do this with ignition "on" for electronic models) hope that helpled.

um... why not keep your 3.3 block when you get the vg30dett and make a vg33dett? find a really thick head gasket (I think somone out there makes em for 3.3 swapped 300zx's) and you should be fine. EDIT; I don't like turbos, IMO you should go for the VG33ER conversion(xterrra/frontier supercharger) better tq band, better throttle respose, More liekly to fit under the hood compared to DOHC heads and I hear those are reall mean with an overdrive pulley.

the bending is not necessary, but only takes 30 sec on the tube bender @ work. lol the core I have to offer is also bent if anyone wants thatone they can. I cut the base per-sample and just whole-sawed a big hole in the center I didn't take measurements but I was careful to notch some space for the casing shapes on the sifter plate as well as make sure the base was able to keep a return spring in place. I'll have to pull it out this weekend and take some measurments, appearantly I gotta put sealant on it anyway right B? lol

for best adheasoin sand everyting down with 120-240 grit sandpaper and then whipe thurougly with rubbing alchol (do not use acetone as it's not good for the plasitc or the rattle can paint.) then use a light coat of plasic primer for the centers and regular sealer primer for both pieces after that. look at your pimer for blemishes and nicks in the wheel itslef If need be let primer fully harden and blend out imperfections with 240 grit whipe with alchol and re-prime. when you are satisfied with the surface texture apply your topcoat, let dry and enjoi.

That Makes 3, I think(Edicer?, JJ & Johannes) I guess I gotta start figuring how to make them more affordable. I have 1 spare shifter that can be used in exchange for a core if we get this started up. I'm sure whoever winds up making it will ship to canada just fine.

ok, I thought you meant lowered all the way to the ground. the guy I work with drives a "slammed pickup" thats just high enough to clear speed bumps.

yes, each base takes up about 6"x6".

get more ppl in on it and more affordable material, (nylon looks good on ebay) and I might be able to drive the cost down. but I'll need commitment before I buy materials. so far It seems like 2 ppl are interrested. I may wind up using anything from .75-1" instead of the original .75" depending on what I can get ahold of cost wise. I think 1" shim will appoximate a 1.25-1.5" reduction in throw whereas the .75" makes for about a 1" reduction in throw.(based on a stock length shifter.)

If your looking to put the VG33 (3.3L QX4)in to your pathfinder it is doable and not too compilcated http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tp...131#62610276131 But if its the VQ35 (3.5L QX4) eh... I dono. As far as having a slammed PF, thats not exactly everybodys passion here hence the "offroad" in NPORA but then again allot of members are daily divers too so I won't knock it. I've considered getting a lowered(not slammed) pathy myself but I gotta finish my favorite rig first lol.

nice oil pan! ever think about making those for others?

There are upgraded pugs out there. I can't remeber where I got mine but they have 14awg wires coming out the back with some sort of hi-temp sealant waterproofing and had a 480 degree temp rating on the label. 14 awg is about 4 or 5x thicker than stock wires.

just a thought, if the idle increases when you push the cluch your tranny oil may be too thick. If this is the case I'll bet it also creeps foward in neutral when your on flatpavement with the brake off.

Calmini makes em seperate for like 50 bucks, YOU could call trail master and see if you can buy one seperate. Or you could have one made simple enough.