MY1PATH

just to free up some confusion; the TBI(not MPFI) z24 & vg30 had round airboxes/filters that sat right ontop of the TBI unit giving the impression of a carb. the z24i and vg30i used the same throttle body & injectors but the airbox on the z24i was smaller.

More than that. you wanna idle up or run off battery only when whinching. all good points... if you have a cruise thottle cam you can hook it up to an old bicycle shifter and stick it on your t-case lever and there's your Idle up control.

www.xpel.com ok, so xpel's don't look badass but my plastic aftermarket headlights have survived a year of moderate abuse w/o a single sratch. Now for the look... I wonder if those rover guards can be adapted for the pathfinder... they look close enough.

maybe make a coilover that runs diagonally inward & upward with the bottom having a plate that is mounted thru the BJ holes. then all your lift force is going straight to the knuckel(thru the bJ) so there's less stress on the LCA.

300zx guys take the patfinder vg30 manifold and do a P&P on it. Don't know the gain becuase theres also againfrom using the pathy manifold in the first place. IMO P&P usually assists marginally to High rpm aplications. Its benifit to torque and low range is non-existant if not negitive.

or you could tie a string to your door linkage and have it come out a hole in the trim. Pull the string and pop, its open.

warn actually sells a spine ring thats desgned to break b4 anyghitng else does. Its cheap and can be installed/replaced in 5 min or less.

that's what I was wondering as well but if you follow the graph on the ones being offered Idle amerage is only about 60-80. and most the time when you are using all your accesories your moving right?... I agree "idle amperage" would seem more realiistic...

A higher cut-in will reqire higer rpm or a smaller pulley to produce sufficent power. Mean green boasts their 180a puts out 180 @ 2k RPM so I would assume a lower cut-in since most altys get their rating from a 3k-4k speed

I must say, when traveling @ 55mph (w/ the hubs already locked) that lever goes quite smoothyly from 2wd to 4wd(no grinding, no slowing down just pull on the fly) which is very re-assureing when your on the freway and you run across some snow Ice and you don't want the asshole who's following you too close to wind up in your tailgate (cause his brakes locked up)if you try to slow down. Just had to say the I really like how "shifting on the fly" really is on the fly (and very smooth) at ANY SPEED when my hubs are locked in. I just lock em during inclement weather and dirt roads or any other time I think I might need them before hand.

I would get on the 300zx forms about that. thats the kinda thing they do not just from 3.3's but other makes and models too.

thats my only regret about my 180 ford alty. I've got the smallest pulley I can find and the cut in is still just a tad high.

that sounds like a good idea.

each belt, allong the longest strech of belt, should not be easily depressed more than 1" when pushing on the back-side-center between 2 pulleys. This is also called " 1" maximum belt deflection." and that is the tightness standard given by the FSM. 2) many parts places test alty's for free. I would def be weary if the alty cannot provide more than 12.5 under full load.

you mean smaller, shorter spring= stiffer rate; a 2ft t-bar with same diameter as stock would be a back breaker. what if you used just TM knuckle drop and had some high angle CV made to keep from binding. ps don't say these things on N4W you'll just get "SAS" as your answer from everyone. LOL

since I was 5 all three rear belts were constantly getting too tight after more than 20 min of use. Our solution was to pull the belt out a litte farther than needed and slide a doubled up rubber band down it. the band would stop the belt on the plastic flange and hold tight enough to keep little me comfortable for a SF to LA road trip. my passengers for my tacoma to SF road trips don't use the rubber-bands I give them so I guess it broke in after 20 years.

Pathfinder auto hub test; in 2wd grab your front driveshaft and rotate it. It should stop in less than 6 full rotations. rotate it the opposite way it should free and then less than 6 rotations after that it should stop. If so it is working correctly. there is a floating plate on a spring inside the AUTO hub that glides past the engagement point which is a splined clip on the CV. when the wheel is beeing "rolled" in either direction the floating plate dips in and out of this point without turing the CV. when in put from the CV is applied in either direction the clip grabs this plate as it dips in and holds on to it as longas the wheel is being "driven" in the same direction as it was engaged. As soon and the CV is nolonger moving and the wheel is rolled in the opposiet direction the plate can dip back out of the clip and turn freely. I'm sure Beastpath can also attest that both the floating plate and the clip are very thin on the auto hubs and if you plan to install a Locker or LSD up font is is highly reccomended to get something stronger. VALUE of OEM locking hubs; $400 Dealer. I would pay up to $75 for them in a JY (found on nissan pickups not pathinders, double check the spline count too) They are strong enough to break a CV If you are that hardcore but IF you just want something relyable I'd say they are the best choice. I got my @ the JY for 25 bucks and I think the pair I snagged for beastpath were about 2x that so you can see that they are the most affordable option if you can find them used.

power steeting will be the pump on the (US) passenger side of the engine. you can tigten it by a tensioner bolt on the bottom side facing the fender well. Its ok, the pathy is a Gr8 rig to learn on, simpe and lots of hand room.

It would be amazing if you could do it. thats one of the biggest reasond I stayed away from TM. But if you can figure out a way... no clue where to start and I'm guessing there may not be room because I think the yota uca may sit lower in compare to the body. ...that would be awesome. or maybe a way to run the ajuster @ stock location while the front anchors stay dropped to @ least gain 1/2 the clearance.

your 97 maxima is a VQ30DE, Very diffeant; 10:1 compression ratio, 190 HP 217ftlbs. It is an "open deck" block whereas the VG was a closed deck. the list of differances prolly goes on...

same thing; the z31 300zx is the same vg30e but with a box mainifold the z32 300zx is a vg30de which had wider(DOHC) heads put out quite a bit more but has been rumored to bee too wide to fit in a pathy. a z31 turbo would work if you moved it to a down-stream turbo rather than a manifold turbo but then it might get whacked on the trail. If your looking for and easy bolt to your tranny engine swap go with the r50 and r51 (pathinfinder & fronter/xterra) vg33 block. keep all your manifolds and electrical so you can run the stock ecu but with 10% more displacement you'll get 10% more power. or.... VG33ER; supercharged found in the 02 special edtions put out like 250 ftlbs add a cam, pulley and headders and you'll prolly have the fastest vg pathfinder arround.

typically, it take about 80-100lbs deadweight to notice any change in mpg. +20 lbs rotating weight (tires, and 2x on the driveline etc) is like carrying arround another passenger. so if your new tires are 5lbs heavier(ea) than the old then you may see a drop. curb weight of the base model 1990 4dr was 3800lbs, I beive my 89 was on a scale @ somewhere near 36 IIRC. headders, high flow cat, less restrictive and 2" exhaust will improve mpg if you keep your foot off the fun button keep a good tune and install an electric fan will also help mpg If your not going to offroad it a 300zx stillen or fidanza flywheel and aluminum diveshaft will also net improved mpg(big differance on the rotating weight equation) but a flywheel will also take away any torque you had from rotating mass before the tranny.

the Intake manifold on the pathfinders (both 3.0 & 3.3) is something that has been uniqe to the d21, r50 & r51 platforms. The long runner design as been swaped on to z31's 2's and maximas (w/ a litte hood modifacation) to get away from the boxy and short runner square tube mainifolds. this may be what you had mistaken for injection. the lower manifold is pretty much the same and the injection stayed the same but possible w/ differant fuel rails to dance arround differant upper manifolds. the maxima got more power out of a lighter drivetrain, gear ratios (less weight so it can run 3.70 gears instead of 4.36) and differant ecu tuning.

the first mark is 0 and each mark clockwise is 5 deg. If you spend allot of time on the higway you can get better mpg out of 14-15. I PERSONNALY DO NOT RECCOMEND pushing it beyond 15.

thats just what they call it, I guess it means budget part.