MY1PATH

x2 on worn out battery but also consider; the pathfinder pulley may not be much bigger but is the maxima balancer bigger? this would turn the alty faster than a pathy i it has a smaller balancer. Going from a 3" pulley to a 2.75 or even 2.5" will make a huge differance. In the case of my ford aly I had to have pulley machined to 2" but I doubt you will need one that small. If you have the older 2 piece pulley you can try putting a thin washer between the halves to get the belt to sit lower in the pulley that would possibly be the equivalent of a 2.75"

thorleys 2.25 collector will bolt to your 2"(actually 1.875) Mid pipe. Mine still is. the carsound/magnaflow direct replacement cat is actually 2.25 but it also bolts up and seals fine. what this means is, you can do go 2" or 2.25" with no issues. and its ok if you go 2" witha 2.25" cat because then the core doesn't coke it too much.

typically cams wind up raising and sharpening the torque band. If you want a mild gain in bottom end maybe try getting a stock 3.0 cam. It is larger than the 3.3 cam but still produces flat power.

I always find my doors themselves fill up and drain allot quicker than the rest of the cab. ever open your door after crossing and see water pouring out of it but none never got inside?

If your alignment is dramatically off it will wander and pull on you reguardless of the condition of your steering box. Not to mention, I think these steering boxes are pretty tough and prolly the strongest part of the seering system. thats why some people replace thier idler arm with a gutted & sealed steering box.

pull up the carpet maybe therese a few more.

89 cali model. no pre-cat ever. Thorleys and magnaflow cat (installed in the last 3 years) are 50state carb but I have not had to test since I am military outside of Cali. If I had to guess I think it would pass. Its last test was pretty ok, Little close on the HC content but I'm guessing the new cat prolly reduced that...

if your dipsticks still have paint on them I belive the tranny one should be red and the oil yellow no? keep an eye you your seals. Many ppl will run a qt of ATF in the oil to clean the engine 100 miles before a change so I don't think 3 min will be devestating to the engine just drain it and put the right oil in there. but if you added much more than qt of ATF I would do another oil change in 100 miles just to be sure. Fill your tranny, mabe use some lucas atf additive and x your fingers.

can you record that? I have never heard a cat full of marbles let alone puring. if you poke it does it meow full of marbles? passenger or driver side? are all the emissions hook ups all the way on? down pipe gaskets?

yeh, a guy on N4W used the mild cam on his fronty. Search there and you will find. I think he had very slight lope @ idle and the power doesn't come on untill after 3k rpm IIRC which is how he liked it. yeh its a 3.3 but its the same cam for the 3.0. Imagine losing more bottom end w/ the 3.0 since there is less dispacement to overcome...

I had my pathy on a dyno.(with headders) 103 HP and 133 ftlbs to the wheels. if you factor in about 20% drivetrain loss for the 4wd tranny thats about 130 HP & 165 ftlbs to the crank and the original rated output for the CA model vg30i was less than 135 HP & 165 ftlbs crank So I'd say my pathy has held up fairly well with its 235+ miles on it but still leave a bit to be desired...

headers + a JWT S1 or mild schnider cam is prolly the best way to wake up your vg in a hurry. If you do it all yourself prolly under a grand.

my personal reccomendation for tires would be the original uniroyal laredo AWT. I dono if they make it anymore or if its even the same but with its 6ply tread it would never get a flat and lasted me over 80,000 miles. great on and off road tire. I'm currently running Nokian Vatiiva MT's, they are smooth on-road but a hair loud and AMAZING off road. Its only weaknesses I've found so far are slipery bare roots and ICE. but then most tires have trouble there... prolly won't last as long as the Laredos did. both where a 31x10.5r15

actually a 90 amp should last longer; running @ a lower percent of its capacity(compared to 70amp) so the VR doesn't wear out from being full open as much.

I said yes cause I wanna see what happens lo. get it on video and don't push it too hard. enjoi your fun button but don't blow your engine. for re-assureance a stock vg30i took an eaton supercharger with not internal mods. I think he bosted into the double digits b4 he spun a rod or something like that. think about it; cast iorn block, forged internals... the vg was already built to handle some abuse.

I actually have a factory tow chain. The shackle on the end of it was made for those tie down loops just below the rear bumper. The shacke pin itself is acutally shaped like the opening in that loop IF you open the hole up enought to actually make it round you may be able to run a regular shackle thru it.

when I put springs in my old shocks still had some life in them but after topping out over every tip in the road the valving inside was so trashes that when I tooke em out I could collapse them under my weight in about half a second. after I put some rancho 9112's in back everything was awesome.

no sensors?

try to find some 3.3 heads, the internals are the same but the casting itself is differant & after port matching the the heads you will have some heads with a more effiecient combustion chamber too. also having 10mm exhuast studs is a plus (instead of 8mm). the 3.3 head runs a smaller cam but any sohc vg30 cam will fit in its place. Here's a list of available cams http://nissan4wheele...741#67210225741 for offroad aplication I suggest the Schnider 256/256 .420"/.420" cam. for higway use the JWT S1 260/260 .440"cam. Either one will really wake up the engine esp with a matched 3.3 head. Don't forget: new lifters for new cams elongate the water passage holes in the head gasket to match the 3.3 heads to a 3.0 block ream Manifold/ header holes to about 12-14mm (1/2")to aleiviate fitment & heat stress issues

if the differance is only an inch I would consider what you do with it; If you load it allot or tow (enough to where the weight levels it) you may want to leave it how it is because typically a rig that squats to level condition handles better than a rig the squats to a nose up condition. However it is not necessary to level it if the above does not apply. but If you prefere the level look by all means go for it. Tell us how you have lifted it(what kit or parts) and somone on here should be able to tell you how to get that extra inch in front.

Yeah don't mess with MM go Warn or go home lol. JY charging 50bucks for hubs is redicouls too. I found some nissan Manual locks up here for 25 bucks @ the JY and nissan had quoted me 400bucks new lol. The OEM manuals are the strongest IMO but means the next weakest link is your CV. Warn on the other hand sells and aftermarket ring that is DESIGNED TO BREAK before your CV does. The ring changes out in about 5 min and runs about 10 bucks. Now like B said if you don't really go wheeling the Autos are fine. I have a pair that I will part with for 25 bucks (my local JY price) + shipping. OOPS, will my 89's fit? I can't remeber what year they changed the spline count.

voltage regulator?.... I don't mess with the newer stuff but I think there's a thread on it here somewhere.

and by great results he means the nightbors hate him because they are coughing and spitting in the smoke lol. Its all good fun tho!

fix your year on your profile. 95 clusters are purely elctronic. the spedogear does not turn a cable, it turns a sending unit and the culster has tiny motors in it.... now on the mechanical units it will be a white bushing with a square key sticking out of it. it snaps to the end of the cable. sometimes they crack and stop working right but this would only efect the odo trip and spedo...

Since your going all custom I would start with the pre-90 thorley headers. they are true long tubes and IMO much better. However you do it, cool project have fun and I agree with 2.25"