MY1PATH

why not just take the abs bulb out of the cluster?

don't be disappointed, nissan had 3 engine/body configurations in 1990 tbi 2dr (phase out) mpfi 2dr (left over bodies) mpfi 4dr (new line)

I'd rather cary a spare alty then have to replace my compressor every time it got too muddy. Oh and for the record my ford alty(rebuildble with basic hand tools) did not short out when I played in the water @ reiter. And if I cook it, its much easier to fix and more cost effective than buying a new one.

typically with seals I drill 4 small holes equally spaced arround the seal, then I put self taping screws in each hole and alternate tuging firlmy on each screw(don't pull so hard the screw pops out) spray the lip of the seal with a thin penetrant while doing so. the seal should slowly work its way out as you tug. before installing the new seal make sure to clean the penitrant off of the crank and seal journal. Grease in and out side of the new seal or dip it in clean engine oil so it does not bind when installing it. find a piece of pipe(whith a smooth straight edge) same diameter as the seal for a cheap installation tool to use with a hammer. I dono how common it is but many ppl think is good practice to change a seal whenever you have it exposed FOM. fwd main w/ timing belt, axle seals with bearings, rear main with clutch/tranny etc...

I'm guilty of likeing it too but I think its in the gray area. Is there a line drawn between Bikini and paint on?

I think it takes more than one trip to pack it with mud @ least for me that is. every time my engine gets muddy I let it cool down and then I start it and hose it down while running. everything gets splashed down while its still cool and then I direct spray the radiator and alty.

The heating blanket helps too, but they also make engine blankets. there is acutally a much lager flat surface of the oil pan above the front diff. the small portion you see is just extra volume. If you can get it to stick to the pan above the front diff that would be your best bet for oil. Are you running 5w30? I have heard that block heaters on the VG somtimes confuse colant temp sensors since the cyl is still cold and needs more fuel so I am going to reccomend if you use a coolant heater you use the kind that spices into your radiator hose so that the heating source is farther away from the temp sensor.

So you run your engine purely off battery while crossing water... interesting, you suffer any power loss from going to a battery only system? I have been thru water many times (almost to the mirrors on a few ocasions)and never had an alty fail from it on my pathy. its usually being mud packed that causines an alty to over heat rather than short out that makes a problem for most people.

Thats actually what I thought it was in the first pic, a harley logo and not I don't like them harley edition trucks. I'm ok with regular side marker lights as long as they are not obnoxous looking and they are quite usefull when parking in dark areas. Evenutally I am goint to embed some real sublte side markers (flush mount leds) in the buge of the fender and hide them in the bodyline.

In 1990 when nissan went to a 4door with a vg30e there were still a few 2door bodies left for america that also recieved a vg30e. Its a rare find in the US but there were about 500 2doors with the vg30e.

when I hear side marker I think of a light mounted on the side of the vehcle to give a visual reference point of clearance. I'm not too crazy about your side emblem but hey, do what makes you happy.

good 2 know you are ok, I like rescueing ppl who can't drive in the snow too. I wish you a rapid healing.

I would assume someting must be stuck or something else is making it behave that way. also, going back to your original post, you should use 5w30 for a climate that cold. Idono if it will help your idle but it should be done anyway.

the catalyst is less likely to travel as it is bonded to the walls of the cat-converter. Its the core that usually goes somewhere.

I try to be sometimes

here I are! Ok, lemmie find it... I'd rather cut & paste than type it again lol enjoi

AND>>> I don't think the OBX have any kind of C.A.R.B., DOT or SAE approval thats not to saying you can't do it and its not saying you can't pass emissions. It just means If you are questioned on exhuast you have no way proving they are street legal.

xeleventy billion. I LOVE my Thorleys. I've seen thorleys and pacesetters side by side. the pace setters were nice but lacked the refining that comes from pride in workmanship... slag & splatter left on the tubes from welds, not all welds flowed as evenly as desired and I hear some have a quarter sized hole for the y-pipe union(the ones I saw didn't) like somone keeps forgetting to ream it out after welding. the thorleys had a thicker plate going to the head for reduced warping with age and heat. The primary pipes were also thicker wall and all the welds flow and coutour giving evidence of proper heat penitration when being manufatured. the tri-Nickel heat relief coating (looks like chrome when new) was chiped & flaked easily out of the box but after a few drives it can take quite a bit of abuse after fully "baking in" to the metal.

Did you check the ecu for codes? 10mpg may be more than just outa tune. any draging brakes or diff fluids that have never been changed. (the oil shears down and becomes thick with wear particles) Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. (go ngk for the first 2 and Neighoff, bosh or Nissan for the other 2) o2 sensor (bosh or NGK/ntk) clean your MAF (gently) check your timing belt; tentsion & position Fuel filter Air filter check cat for cloging, crumbling or melting. seafoam Timing; 15 btdc @ 600-750 rpm with no accesories running. more...

REAR driveshaft- remove the 4 bolts on the rear, lift the saft over the pumkin and slide straight back. The slip yoke will come out of the t-case with a slow stream of fulid so have pan in place. Front front driveshaft- remove 4 bolts on each end of the shaft. wiggle and tilt the saft untill you can slide it out. If you don't think it will go (my exhaust is differant so it was ez 4 me) support the tranny and remove the tranny x-member and it should come right out. Notes- -Be prepared, your t-bars will need to come out in order to get the t-case down -since the t-bars are out you might as well make sure the 4 bolts holding the front axle(x-member under the front diff) are facing in a way so that you won't have to pull the t-bars and LCA's in the future just to get the front axle off. -if its a 5spd tranny the t-case MUST BE FULLY SEALED AND SEALANT CURED BEFORE FILLING. the t-case seals the back of the tranny and if this step is neglected you will evetually have a leak if not right away. _I rebuilt a t-case and installed it last spring on my pathy so if you have questions feel free to ask.

either way, you can swap the side gears from a same type diff and be fine. If you mark all the settings you won't need to reset the backlash once the correct side gears are in.

I got some FIAM (if thats how its spelled?) horns out of a JY they look like mini black and red french horns. I wired them in addition to my stock horn. my buddy says its pretty loud and I'm kinda happy with the result myself.

I thought the frontier was 33 spline. if so you will need the side gears out of your 31 spline Providing both are LSD or Both are open.

offset beind a center output? I don't like the sound of that....

the 300zx 5spd trany housing is a closed-black housing and will not bolt to the t-case. the Pathy 5spd trany housing is an OPEN-black housing which requres a t-case behind it to close it/ hold the oil in. the any 2wd VG will also have a bigger oil pan and differant pickup tube. this will not clear the front diff unless you swap the 4wd pan and pickup tube. (pull the dipstick first and install it last or I hear it will get wedged beteween the block and baffle in the pan.) the DE motor is WIDE the biggest challenge wil be getting it to fit in the narrow pathy engine bay. I have not seen it done yet.