beastpath

would this truly be superior to the Calmini HD kit? they modify and lengthen the tie-rods also which helps retain acceptable dimensions for suspension lifts?

if its the little yellow thing I did a writeup on how to replace it with the part numbers etc. i think it cost me about $5 to replace them with new ones.

you should add that info to your cam thread.

lol. or you could burn them out like I did. it sucks though. even with a mask on i breathed in tons of black stuff.

you mean they couldnt be bothered to do a proper job of it edit: these are also the guys who wanted to put 6cm of shims on the UCA's

The bushings are new energy suspension ones, but the metal was worn some and probably needs to be re-welded with a bearing race or something. I dont know how to weld though. I think the tie rods could be adjusted to where they both have room to play with on both sides - i mean, the garage that did the adjustment right before my last one didnt overextend either (and it was cranked up a lot more then).

not yet lol. if i truly cant get any more lift without compromising the shim amount too much then I'll probably put them back on. They are super sturdy. I measured the shims today on each side when I was doing the oil today: on the passenger side both UCA bolts have about 1/4" of shims - so there is a little room to play there. On the drivers side the rear UCA bolt has less than 1/4" of shims and the front UCA has 3/8". The last alignment shop also extended the drivrs side tie rod a whole lot, whereas the passengers side has a lot left to give.

lol. you'd think so, but flagstaff got 5' of snow last week!! plus we have lots of swimming pools

welcome back!

cool, thanks. i'm still uncertain about these though as I have read a bunch of reviews that say they are not quite as good as the Wet Ok's (material thickness, fitment, not quite as waterproof).

did you bleed it? that will get air bubbles out and make it nice and springy again.

doesnt matter anyway. costco no longer sells them.

ill have to look at costco then. do they have display models?

apparently the ones you can get at costco for a decent price are Neosupreme - a fake Neoprene. The real Neoprene ones are the same price as Wet Okole.

not sure of the differences. but if you get one out of a yard, check the glove compartment for a sticker which will have the key code for that vehicle. you can just give the locksmith this code and in most cases they can pull up what they need to do to set the cylinders.

Yeah, I think I'm going to save up for the Nissan replacements ($1350 + tax + shipping), or maybe replace the pieces bit by bit. Of course, if I find a good reasonably priced set of used ones I'll get those instead. Plz, if anyone finds any let me know. In the mean time I'm thinking of springing for the Wet Okole covers. Will make the interior look a lot better with the tight fit and with them hiding the rips in the leather.

4x4parts

I just replaced the two front locks and had them re-coded to my ignition for $30. Worth it for just two locks IMO. If you are going to do all the locks and need a new ignition cylinder too It might be worth it to buy the whole kit from Nissan. At courtesey parts its $190 or so, and I bet Alkorahil can get it cheaper.

some of that stuff looks pretty cool. you think that plenum spacer and the fuel rails would do what they say?

makes sense. arent we supposed to use locktight on the bolts though? so, hardened washers is the way to go it seems - could I possibly get away with 1/2" if I used the washers and a longer bolt?

Well at least I'm not the only one with shim problems then. yeah, im not interested in the BJ spacers. I'll have to go out and actually measure the shims. Is it dangerous to have 1/2" of shims in there?

ok. What would change over time to increase the amount of alignment shims? I mean most of you guys can get 2.5 - 3" of lift within the shim limit.

I switched out the Rancho UCA's to RC UCA's to see if I could get anymore lift from them. Turns out with the RC's on there I have about 1.5" of space in between the bupstop and arm (2" if you dont count the low profile bushing I have on). I want to crank the t-bars up a bit more but I already have a bunch of shims on there and the last place I took it for an alignment told me I cant get any more in there - however, when I had the AC UCA's on there I had the truck cranked up to .5" above the bumpstop and a different garage was able to align it just fine (I'm pretty certain they put a couple more shims in there than I have now too). I'm also having a problem adjusting my toe in, which is confusing because I didn't think this would be affected by a lift. Likewise when I had the AC lift arms on the toe-in was set just fine. Could there be any problems that are affecting the alignment? For example, if the hole from the strut arm bushings is worn would this affect toe in? Would a sloppy steering system affect alignment also?

nvm, I meant rocker shafts.

factory? if so lets see some pics