Kittamaru

I never get injected... it doesn't work for me at all. Quite literally, I am immune to novacain. I've had two teeth pulled, both times without it - it's a bitch to learn, but detaching yourself from your physical body works a treat. Scared the piss out of the nurse when I told her not to shoot me up before they pulled the tooth. Kind of freaked her out a bit too when my eyes rolled into the back of my head as I tranced myself XD I could still feel it (they yanked hard as hell) but it worked 999% better than novacain (which does nothing at all)

It's peppier of course - you removed a fair bit of resistance (both the A/C compressor pully and the resistance of having the belt wrapped around the shaft) but you will want to replace that when you get the chance. As for the ticking/clicking noise... could be a rocker? I have the same kind of sound on my truck and that's what my father and I figure it to be.

Question - are you Steel or Aluminum pistons? If aluminum, the ethelyn glycol (sp?) in the coolant could possibly damage the top of the piston... though I doubt it's the case here. Anyone able to confirm this? Trying to think back to my old chem classes

How difficult would it be to replace that single rod? I thought you could do it thru the top of the head if you were careful...?

They used a donated Shelby Mustang GT500 (least if I remember right it was donated) which, I must say, fits quite nicely - old KITT had the sleek style and good curves, new KITT has high-tech goodies and the muscle to actually do 200+

Hey, it wasn't bad for a low-budget TV movie though. And I loved the new nano-tech in the car... plus they couldn't really have done much better than a Shelby... maybe a SkyLine (a Pathy uber-tank version of KITT would be awesome too )

Strength: 37,737 [Ranked: 982] Agility: 24,384 [Ranked: 991] Guard: 23,273 [Ranked: 964] Labour: 17,849 [Ranked: 994] IQ: 8,800 [Ranked: 1126] Rig Strength: 27,069 [Ranked: 734] Rig Ability: 28,874 [Ranked: 690] Total stats: 167,986 [Ranked: 985] Health: 2950/2950 Whee, I don't fail at life XD

Yeah, but anything that'd help with the cold starts is a good thing That and where I am we have dropped to around 10 below before adding in wind chill. That and my old gal does stutter and knock a bit when really cold

Stupid question - what is a block heater, and how do I install one on my truck? I assume it helps to warm up the oil and liquid lines to ease cold-starts?

Woot... goddamn this movie was awesome! I remember watching Knight Rider when I was 5 and 6 years old and wishing I could own that old black Trans Am and then the T-Top they swapped to... mmmdoggie! The new KITT... hawt. Not a ford fan at all, but the Shelby series mustang was a thang done right. KITT is no exception... nano-armor, adaptive computer analysis programming, thermal imaging, and offensive weapons we don't even know about yet... plus the whole "627 miles in under 2 hours" thing while in Pursuit Mode! Good god! Anyone else watch this movie? I'm seriously hoping they make it into a new series!

Yes, but our on ramps onto the highway here give you a meager 20 feet or so before you have to merge into traffic... no joke some of them give like, 2, maybe 3 car lengths. I need to be able to hit 65mph before I get rear ended in that space, so I have to really haul ass at times.

It's the valve cover gaskets I guess... I'm not 100% sure to be honest... all I know is the SLIGHTEST bit of oil leaks out of the engine when under heavy heavy pressure (high RPM) but it's stopped for now due to it being dirty enough to prevent more loss

*grins* Well, my head gaskets are redneck fixed atm (eg, gunk is stopping the leak) What's the difficulty and procedure in replacing both head gaskets / valve cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket?

I have heard that using Synthetic oil in vehicles not made to use it can cause problems... like the oil simply draining past the seals. Is this a real, true problem, or crap put up to try and keep people using natural oil instead of synthetic? I don't want to do my oil change and walk out the next day to a puddle of oil on my driveway and an empty oil pan

Nissanman, honest question: Did you remember to back up when you disengaged 4x4? If not, your front drivetrain is still engaged but your hubs are free running - auto hubs sometimes don't unlock right away which would possibly explain the noise. Mine's an automatic though so I don't know if it'sany different for you.

-5 F here with a -20 F wind chill... my trucks in the shop having an alignment done, but the cold weather is takin a toll on my fiance's '99 Cavalier XD Poor lil box 4 is having issues starting and I think her battery is going to pot... my truck started up fine the other day when it was a -2 F wind chill though

Couple things could be causing it... and the winter fuel + e20 could have an effect Check your spark plugs, wires, distributor. Make sure your connections are good and clean and make sure the spark is hot. Run an injector cleaner thru two or three times in a row (make sure it's a high enough grade for the tank size) when you gas her up. Check your alignment and camber - having your alignment out could lower your gas mileage a bit. I can't really tell you how to do those things as they're on my to do list. The injector cleaner could make a huge difference for you - once you get em clean, run the cleaner through once every 4th or 5th tank.

I'd say test and replace in this order: Relays / Fuses Door Panel Switches Regulators Motors Door Not the most comprehensive list but... it's all I can think of to be honest (I'm no wrencher though )

I believe the '87 isn't TBI... isn't that model year Carbourated still? 88 or Redfinder would be the ones to talk to... maybe slick would know as well?

Try molding it and casting an alluminum billet gear instead? *shrugS* seems like it'd wear better than Plastic

*grins* that should be a new add for Nissan... all those crushed Chevy's and Fjords laying around... and then a Pathy XE-V6 with simply a spot of mud and a broken rear window XD

*nods* Sounds like you have it right... was gonna say, check the relays first, they'd be the cheapest and easiest to replace. Check for any broken or crimped wires you can see coming into or out of the relays. Also check the window motors themselves. Regulator assembly I couldn't help you with mate, sorry:( And be careful about what lube you use... I've heard some people say certain ones will deteriorate the rubber seals? Can someone else confirm this?

Rest of the radio works, just no sound *shrugs* Thanks for the help mate... and yes, it is a Heap... Heaping Pile of Sh*t in my opinion... clutch squeals like a pig and the thing sucks in torque... 'corrding to our mechanic, it's all good and normal for it *laugh*

So that thing IS the amp... goddamn... I take it the next step would be bring it in to have the amp replaced... fudge. Why is it when I looked that thing up online it said the OBD1 system was under the back seat? And I thought most amps were located in the trunk anyway *shrugs* Aighty, thanks for the info GhostPath

Mate, like I said, I'm kind of desperate for an answer so he'll get off my back. I know there's a few guys here great with electrical stuff, so I figured I'd take my chances