Kittamaru

I may be thinking of the wrong parts... I'm guessing that's what they are due to location... and, well, they look like a big pan

JC Whitney? Never heard of em... Remember, I are teh newbie.

No... I can see the depth of the rust. I'd feel more comfortable with a replacement. It's... mostly solid? The same has happened to my catalytic converter casing

My undercoat is all but gone... a lot of the exposed flat surfaces have rusted pretty badly. Once I get it up on a lift I'll take pictures and show you what I mean... hard to do with the camera phone I have now... no flash and all... plus no SD card so I can't get them on my PC XD

aw.. that sucks... Can you make any recommendations for parts I should go to a junkyard to get? I'm thinking perhaps I should get new oil and tranny oil coolers, oil and tranny oil pans, etc? Maybe a 90 amp alternator?

I'm also looking at a tranny cooler... bit expensive ain't they? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?...4294967016+5680

Okay, I'm having trouble again... where can I buy a finned or ribbed transmission fluid pan? Looking online keeps bringing up gaskets and crap... is there a good site that sells Nissan Parts that a relative noob would understand?

Question: When I shift into 4WD the first time, then shift out, that means the TRANSFER CASE is active and supplying power to the front tires, but the HUBS are not locked, correct? So this will NOT affect my turning (or put stress on the transfer case) but it WILL allow me to shift on the fly, right? Just making sure.

I'm looking for any year Nissan Skyline... Backstory - my Fiance's 2.2L 4 banger 1999 chevy cavalier z24 up n died. Apparently the oil leaked out at the oil filter, so the engine was running without any oil. Seized up tight... rebuild is gonna cost as much as having the engine replaced. We're looking at getting it replaced... but... I'm looking at getting her a gorgeous christmas or birthday present... I want to get her a Nissan Skyline. Prefereably, a GT-R, ENR33 GTS-4, 400R, 34 GT-FOUR... basicly, I want one of the better ones. I don't want top of the line as there's no way on earth I could afford it... To be blatently honest, it doesn't even have to work. If I have to sink a few thousand into it to make it run, so be it... this is a long term project after all. I want to give her a vehicle that you won't see on the road everyday... one that'll handle bad weather without question and will give her the umph she so wants in a car. If you can give any advice on models to look for, as well as where to look (I'm perusing a couple of junkyards next year to look for parts cars), please let me know. -Kitt PS - it is prefered if it has a DE or DET engine series. Fantastic if it could be a straight 6, but not necessary... I don't want her getting TOO many speeding tickets now

I am NOT doing an acid or detergent flush... I'm simply going to drain and run new fluid through, letting the fluid run out till it comes thru at least somewhat close to the color it went in. I just talked to my mechanic... it was the torshin bar AND the tie rods, but I had the timing wrong- The tie rods were a bit bent up and were weak and rusted - being 17 years old (the original parts) I guess that's not that terribly uncommon? What happened was, when he tried to heat up the tie rods to free them, the... ah... what did he call it... well, in any case, in the attempt to repair the damaged tie rods, they snapped in half, so he replaced them. He didn't charge me for parts since he thinks it may have been his own error, but yeah, they were broken... just they broke in the shop XD And yeah, my torshin bar was busted.

Yes, your description sinched it - my front right end was about a foot and a half lower than my rear left... it was damn near laying on the stopper of the shock absorber. to be certain, next time I go up to Harrisburg, I'll ask my mechanic (I'm attending college in philly) what exactly it was that broke.

Kind of... I dont' have the ECCS thingy there... beyond that it looks almost exact. Where can I get a factory service manual? Is that the one that comes with the truck... the owners manual? And er... yeah... Tie Rods... Torshin bar... okay, no, I don't know how I $#&%ed that up the torshin bar was busted... not the tie rods 0o' Damn... note to self... do NOT POST HELP REQUESTS after midnight. Yes, torshin bar, thank you So. the Haynes Repair Manual isn't any good? Is Nissan really going to give me a full technical manual at my request?

Thing is, it doesn't follow ANY of the tech specs I've looked up... I have here in my hand a book that has nearly every how too I could ever need, complete with diagrams, designed special for the 1990 nissan (it's from a series of books made for various brands, years, models, ect) Thing is, my engine looks COMPLETELY different from the engine it shows! The book is the Nissan/Datsun Pick-up & Pathfinder Haynes Repair Manual It was designed following a complete teardown and rebuild Damn good book recommended to me by my mechanic... covers pathy's from 1987b up to 1995... yet none of them fit my engine. Biggest difference is I do NOT have that big ass circular air intake... I have the standard box intake...

Hm... my e-brake works, but not very well... Tis a 1990 Pathy though... the manual says it has auto adjusting e-brakes, but after following it's instructions I feel almost no change. Any suggestions?

*nods* Once I actually have a Micro SD card for my camera so I can upload them to my PC, i will. it's weird because all the 89, 90, and 91 pathy's around here have a very different setup than mine... I don't know who did what to it, but it's the same setup it's had since my family owned it, thus I think it's stock... just stock what? And what enables me to do that? I'm not afraid to do it, that's what. The truck oversteers a little so I've learned to use that to my advantage when making tight corners. The truck has better acceleration between 2500-3500 rpm, so I play with break, gas, and the pre-shift to stay in my optimum power zone if I'm trying to "race" someone. Oh, and I'm not afraid to push someone around if they try to move into my lane or cut me off. I know my own limits and the limits of my truck's road potential. I know how hard I can push her around turns before I risk a skid and I know how much I can attempt to accelerate before I risk pushing myself around. My point was, at 19 years old, I'm a pretty decent driver in most road conditions, be it driving carefully on snowy / icy roads, racing a friend around a closed track, or having fun in a snow covered parking lot. I'm not saying my truck will beat your Diablo down a 1/4 mile track... I'm not saying it'll do better on the trail than your daddy's Laredo. What I AM saying is that, for a 17 year old truck that's been on a not so faithful maintenance schedule, she has held up damn nice and I want to LEARN to maintain her exceptionally well, not just be another one of your "every day dickheads* that doesn't know how to take care of his truck. Now, can we ALL put our E-Peens away and get back on the freaking subject? Man o live... I asked a question, gave all the info I thought was pertinant... and then you contest it. You wanted to know how I drive it, I told you. End o Story.

Rofl I dunno why mate, it was steering alright without them, though it pulled HEAVILY to the right when I let go of the wheel. New tie rods, new connectors, and a new set of tires + alignment (I was over an inch and a half out of alignment) and she rides pretty as can be! ... EDIT ... Thinking about it... i guess pulling to the side means it wasn't steering alright huh XD

hehe, I just had my alignments done... the tie rods were actually BROKEN (they were the original ones) because of the 17 years of @!*% that truck has seen... dunno how I was able to drive it tot he shop... it handled great though

Yeah, it was a rock climber pathy... strange looking beast it was! Only recognized it as a pathy because of the decal on the back that read PATHFINDER XD Tires looked something like these: Here's a picture from this site of all places, of the kind of twist that scares me How much modding do I need for my stock truck to do this? XD BTW - that second picture, that is NOT the truck I saw... just that I liked the twist and movement ont he suspension.

See, here's my question: Why would high-intensity roadway driving be any worse than high-stakes offroad driving? I've seen pathy's with 53 inch tires and 21 inches of suspension travel literally torshin their frame into a pretzle, only to have it rebound when they come off the boulder they're sitting on! It's bleeding fantastic!

I don't take them recklessly fast, but I keep my speed up for the very reason you mentioned. If I were to slow down, and let my wheels ride into the potholes, I'd probably wind up loosing said wheels. I'm talking potholes deep enough to bottom out an Altima. She actually seems to enjoy it... as far as trucks can enjoy things *shrugs*

See, I only shift into 4x4 on the fly if I start to skid out around a real bad turn in snow or rain after it hasn't rained for a while. It's at low speed, and I just do it to pull my front end around. Beyond that, I attempt to stop before shifting into or out of even 4WDH Also, I'm looking at getting a finned or ribbed transmission fluid pan. I hear they disperse heat a LOT better. Can someone recommend a good parts store? Good quality and decent prices?

My father is really good with vehicles (he's a master electrician, carpenter, metalworker, ect... he did building and equipment restoration for years) and he's helped me look over the truck. The frame is solid all around, no questions there. There is limited rust on the body, but all in all it's mostly cosmetic. The gas tank isn't leaking, but a few layers have been eaten thru. Same with my muffler. I am planning on replacing ALL the weather stripping. The 1990 Pathy manual (and a lot of people I've talked to) states that shift on the fly is okay at low speeds, and it should auto-disengage. It used to do that, but a few years of hard use in 4wd (Blizzard of 96 anyone?) probably did a little damage. Fluid levels are something I'm going to have to check, definately. I do NOT have a lift of any sort, though... all I have is the tire change jack and two 2 foot high ramps... The old undercoating is... well, mostly gone at this point. 17 years thru the grit, salt, chemicals, and cinders of northern PA have worn it away. I'm going to be using a chemical sealant and then the rubberized undercoat. I dont' have any tire well leaks thankfully - they've all remained nicely tight. My floorboards are nice and rust free except for one patch near the rear left passenger door, though that's from the rust spot on the body I need to fix (just the very edge of the rug.. the door jam area started to rust a bit) I really, REALLY, appreciate the help guys!

I'll take some pictures ASAP, but my rust is NOTHING like that... mostly just body work. The frame is QUITE solid

\ Heh, PA my friend... salts, chemicals, snow, and all sorts of fun @!*%. I'm working on repairing what rust there is, then I'm going to apply a new rubberized undercoating to help protect it all.

That's the thing, I know i'm behind on maintenance in some areas and I want to start fresh. If that means a full tranny and engine rebuild so be it.