Kittamaru

I thought fuel injection was supposedly better overall, plus you could do more to improve it? I'm looking at getting a K&N high-flow air filter, a better catalytic converter, and new headers if possible... any tips?

Well, that's the thing... it had only one owner before my grandfather (that I know of)... he owned it for about 12 years, then gave it to me... so yeah. The guy that owned it before only got rid of it because he got a newer model (this came from the dealer who was a good friend of my grandfathers... eg, my grandfather helped build his house) What threw me for a huge loop was when someone here told me it was throttle body... which I was telling my mechanic and the guys at Adv. Auto parts... they had me pop the hood and were like well that ain't normal now is it... I guess maybe by my description they thought I had a VG30I? I unno, like I said I need to run the VIN... even the decal work is strange. *shrugs* Eh, better to have a full fuel injection system than a TBI where gas mileage is concerned right?

Level 3 First Aid + Suture kit 2 gallons water randomized rations (dry food, candy bars, etc) Candles Matches Dual space blankets (the aluminum ones) Electronic flares Spare batteries (AA, AAA, D, and C) Mag Light .357 Mag + 3 quick loaders (if and only if the weather is REALLY bad or I'm going hunting with my grandfather... this gun came in handy once) Shovel Ice Melt Jack 18k pound tow rope come-along Brake fluid, tranny fluid, coolant, purified water, oil, etc (just in case) pocket knife and some various other bits and pieces what can I say... I'm a tad paranoid

Heh... I remember the first (and only time) my pathfinder got stuck in 4x4 hi... decided to use low... goddamn that sound scared the crap out of me. Freaked out so bad I shut the truck off and jumped out XD Got back in, tried again, slammed it into 4x4 lo and all was good... two seconds of tire spin as the hubs engaged and I was crawling my way thru almost 2 foot of snow with a nice inch and a half thick blanket of ice on top... crruuuuuunching the way to my university which, for whatever ungodly reason, decided not to call off. I was the ONLY student in any of my classes... my professors all said to just go home XD

Alrighty then, that explains the confusion... that's probably why they had such a hard time explaining it to me. Then again, it didn't help that I caught them just before closing and they were still nice enough to come out and give her a look over... I can't put my finger on it... somethings different. My MAF is on the wrong side... I don't have an ECCS cap... I don't have that giant copper coloured pipe in the middle, and the passenger side of my engine compartment has a lot more in it than yours does... *shrugs* I'm gonna head off to bed... gonna get bitched out by my parents because I was out past 10 with my friends who have just gotten back from uni for break... go figure *shrugs*

Anybody? That guide left me kinda in the dark Also, where is a good place to get HID bulbs?

See, it looks similar... just... there's more too it. There's more parts here and there that I really can't place. I thought the VG30E engine was supposed to be the TBI varient... I think it was 88 that told me that in one of my first posts here.... 1990 SEV6 Nissan with automatic transmission and the funky decal work. I'll post pics... asap... I may or may not be getting kicked out of my house (parental troubles... meh... I really don't give two @!*%s at this point cause I'll just move in with my fiance... long story if anyone cares to ask) so as soon as I can I'll get the pictures and post em.

I plan to this weekend... weather sucks at the moment so me mum's car is in the garage where I'd get half decent lighting (like, it's been foggy and raining for 2 days straight now)

Aight, my truck, as I said before, is a 1990 Nissan Pathfinder SEV6... as such you all have told me that it should be the Throttle Body Injection VG30E engine... it's not. Just had my mechanic's brother (who's also his partner and an engine specialist) give the engine a full once over... at a glance the first thing he told me was "It looks like a Mitsubishi engine..." He then proceded to show me the line for the fuel injection, as well as some key points where it varies from a stock VG30E... including the fact that, except for the Nissan labels on all the parts, it is nearly identical to many Mitsubishi engines... So, yeah... not a VG30E... or a very highly modified one... I wasn't really 100% sure... so I went to Advance Auto Parts, which is just down the street, and had a guy come out and pop the hood. I wound up having half a dozen people grinning and talking to each other about my truck while I stood there like an idiot wondering WTF was going on. Their advice - run the VIN and see what I can find out was done to my truck, cause it's definately not stock. So, yeah... I'm gonna run the VI Number and also take a half dozen pictures to post up here... see what sense we can make of this. Pictures... coming this weekend I guess. I'm starting to think the lil rumor my grandfather told me about the truck just might be true... That said, anything you guys might be able to offer up about it? This is all very very confusing for me so I'm trying to get as much information about it as I can... this kinda threw all my plans into a corkscrew as I was basing them off of the exact specifications of my truck. Now, I find out I don't have the engine I thought I had XD

what the hell is a dizzy... I'm assuming distributor?

You don't HAVE to do it below 25... I've done it once at 55mph... (hey... I was on the turnpike... in almost six inches of snow/sleet/ice some douche decided to cut me off and lost control of his car... in the attempt to NOT have him clip my front bumper (which was successful) I wound up sliding sideways and driving, at 55 mph, sideways, down the turnpike... doglegging I guess it's called. Threw her into 4wdhi and mashed the gas with light pressure on the brakes to lock my diff and pulled her straight as pretty as can be) Thing is, it risks damaging the system... transfer case and splines and things like that I guess... not really sure. So, while you CAN do it much higher... you shouldn't. On another note... manual hubs. I'm assuming you lock them and thus tie the wheels to the front driveshaft... then the drive selector simply engages / disengages the transfer case?

I'm trying to avoid google since there's a load of misinformation and I wouldn't know the difference hm... I think I'ma have to look into those. And they work on stock voltages and currents?

Okay What is an HID light? What does that refer to? I use the stock standard halogen lights that come with 1990 pathfinders with the stock light covers... what would an HID upgrade cost and do for me? Couple that with these new light covers... what kind of improvement are we talking about here?

I've never had a problem with my '90's auto hubs not engaging... they always click when I shift into 4WD... often within a few inches of tire movement. Are there any better Auto Hubs that I can use instead of the stock ones? Do the hubs need replacing every so often?

So then if even the Ranco's wont work, what ARE my options for in-cab shock control?

Get it fixed ASAP... or at least wrap the remaining bits in duct tape to sure them up

Aight, that's what I was thinking I'll take a look asap

You underestimate my newbness... airbox = air filter?

I actually odn't know where the MAF is Can you post a picture or give a description?

cat... catalytic converter?

Nah, it's dry now and it's still doing that... been dry the last three days *pouts* I need to replace my plug wires and all that... it's a plan for when I have $$$ I'll check the airflow sensor ASAP

*bump* My truck is running a bit smoother... not by much. It seems that in the rain it gets much much worse... this leads me to believe it's either: Bad fuel injectors Bad fuel/air ratio Bad air intake any ideas?

Hm... okay. I thought you mean the R9000 could have their damping controled via the stock switch.... Would I be good with the Pro Comp ES9000 series shocks... I really don't have 400 dollars to spend on shocks They're also gas adjust... I'm asuming they can be controlled from in cab too?

Is there any way to get a new set of "stock" shocks then? is it worth it? Simon...w hat do you mean by the dampening... how can I hook that stock cab button up to the RS9000's? Is it worth the extra cost?

Alright, got a big worry on my hands... my truck is running very, VERY rough. Very little power, and it sounds bad... think like rototiller when it can't find the right fuel / air mixture... I'm thinking either injectors, spark plugs, or bad lines? Fuel filter, PCV valve, air filter, are all good... know this for a fact (they're brand new ) I am due for an oil change soon... and I have a small oil leak from the headgasket which I want to replace ASAP but it isn't major... like... add a few ounces once a month and I'm good kind of minor leak. The strangest symptom is, as I approach about 3200 rpm, it starts to smooth out... and as I drop under 2000 rpm it gets SO rough I fear it will stall and I cannot maintain speed no matter what... I've seen before about pulling codes... no check engine light or anything and I don't know how to pull codes anyway. Any ideas? I'm starting to wonder if I should be running her at all if she's sputtering like that... my poor baby is sick