PathyGig12

Yeah the Wildpeaks are just shy of 32”, but I haven’t had any issues with rubbing so far. Before I changed the front bumper, I was getting a bit of rubbing at full lock, so I had to trim the plastic corner directly in front of the tire maybe an inch, but nothing crazy. It also helps that these are super narrow tires

I suggest leaving the spacers out entirely, but if you do feel the need to use them then definitely wait until later after the coils have settled. With manual hubs you can get around the CV binding issue for the most part, but they won’t save you off-road when the hubs are locked. Me personally, I want to know that my CVs won’t break when off-road under non-extreme conditions, so I went with the AC coils up front One thing to mention about rear coil installation, forget about spring compressors. I have done it twice, both in a tiny garage and on a two post lift, and never *NEEDED* to use the compressors. It’s an extremely easy job. The first spring I did, I used them to help, but once I figured out how to drop the axle far enough I never needed them again. You just need to do 5 things in order: 1. jack up the frame where the front of the rear lower control arm is bolted 2. disconnect the shock at the lower mount 3. disconnect the sway bar end link (the bottom end of it) 4. The whole time you should have a second jack or the OEM scissor jack under the axle supporting it, and then lower it as far as necessary 5. Once its low enough, push UP on the coil (hard, it might be a bit rusted into place), then pull it out sideways, and reverse the process for installation. For the right side the process is identical, but you also have to undo the right side bolt for the panhard rod as the last step to get enough droop. Only thing to watch out for is the brake lines. They will be slightly tensioned at the necessary droop for 9449s but not to the point of damage. Still worth it to be careful though, as I have no way of knowing the condition/length of your specific brake lines For the front, just make sure that all notches and marks are oriented correctly in the struts, and that you use OEM parts for the bearings and mounts Edit: Almost forgot to mention! You have the AUTO Tcase like I do, so be aware that it will hate the addition of manual hubs. Mine has been giving me some trouble since I installed the hubs, the computer is confused about the lack of “correct” sensor data coming from the front and you’ll probably see a 4WD warning light after a long stretch of highway, and maybe other weird stuff. You will also have to consider the fact that with the hubs unlocked, your TCase won’t be pumping fluid around because the pump operates by way of the spinning front shaft under normal locked conditions, so it’s best to lock them a few minutes before switching to 4wd so that it has time to circulate the fluid.

Nope, I was planning to eventually list them on eBay or something. If you want them, shoot me a private message and we can figure something out

Wow just came across this old pic. Came a long way from 2015!

Just installed the 9449s, very happy. With the 9447s my rear end was about an inch and a half lower than the front, but now it sits perfectly level at 21” from hub to fender both in the front and rear

Umm no. AC coils are definitely not the same as OME HD, it’s a different brand entirely. People using the ACs have gotten noticeably higher lifts in the front vs the OME and they have been producing them for a long time. Someone correct me if I’m wrong but I believe they were the original way of lifting the R50, before any other options existed They are expensive, I’ll give you that. I paid $180 for the front two coils. But that’s what happens when you sell the only guaranteed 2” spring lift for the front. If others made similar options, you’d see the prices come down. Unfortunately the dozens of us who lift these rigs don’t make for a very large market

Now that’s a fantastic pic!

Oh definitely. The top-outs happen a few times a week for me, but you can usually tell when it’s going to happen so you can go slow. It’s pretty widely accepted that topping out doesn’t damage anything anyway, and if it really bothered me I would just put some limiting straps on to stop the issue entirely. But I’m not super concerned with it, just an annoying clunk every once in a while.

Hey man sorry for the delay, I measured the heights for you. Right now my front is: 21” from the hub to the fender 36” from the fender to the ground And my rear is: 19.5” from hub to fender 34.5” from fender to ground Just like I thought, I’ve got a negative rake of about 1.5” because of all the weight in the rear. Once the 9449s go in, I should be back to about even, maybe a bit of positive rake

Took off the running boards, I’m loving the “visual lift” that it gives the truck. I never used them anyway, when I go for the roof rack I stand on the tire. I’ll take my chances with rocker damage, I don’t think I’ll be doing any intense rock crawling anyway It also shaved off 40 lbs or so, which helps take some load off the rear springs

Very interesting suggestion about unplugging the transfer case, never thought of that. But you’re right, it’s super complex and I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t like it The thing is, I know for a fact that the computer is doing stupid things because it’s confused about the lack of front shaft motion when the hubs are unlocked. But the way I see it, the vibration is significant enough to not be coming from the transfer case, so my theory is that it’s intermittently trying to engage the front and that’s why you get vibration as a pulse as opposed to the steady one which happens when the hubs are locked. The idea is if I can stop the vibration, the computers confusion will not be noticeable because it will still try to connect the front in error but that state won’t have any discernible difference. I’ve just accepted at this point that the hubs do not jive well with the transfer case Once I mount the camera I should know for sure whether my theory is true because you’ll see the front start moving even with the hubs unlocked

Thanks for the tip man, I haven’t checked the mounts yet, but I have a camera that I’ll try mounting close to the front diff to see if I can spot any movement while driving. But I’m wondering, if it’s coming from the front diff mounts, why would the vibration be pulsing when the hubs are unlocked? The front diff should be completely idle right? I changed both the transfer case and front diff fluids a couple weeks ago to rule out a lube issue

So I got tired of the “unfinished” look on the rear and ended up cutting the stock bumper cover to fit over the new bumper and tire carrier. Then I went and painted it charcoal metallic along with the fender flares. I think it came out pretty nice overall. The bumper could use a little more refinement to the cut outs, but it’s getting there. I haven’t managed to swap in the 9449s yet, which is a bummer. I gave it a go in my garage but wasn’t able to get the frame high enough to give myself clearance for dropping the axle, so I decided to wait until I have access to a two post lift again. In the mean time I’ll just lighten up the back to reduce sag lol. Next I’ll be trying to figure out this vibration issue. I’ve narrowed it down to the front drive shaft, so I plan to take off the shaft entirely to see what happens, and if the vibration disappears then I’ll bring it to a drivetrain specialist to balance it and check run out and Ujoints

The ones that fit the R50 are the model 29091, I believe Only thing to watch out for is the center bore on your wheels, some models i think the warns wouldn’t fit through the centers even though they fit properly on the axle shafts. Your wheels are different than mine so it’s definition something to check first. Don’t know much about those wheels so I’ll let someone else chime in if they do

I’ll measure it for you whenever I have a free second The wait time was about a week I think?

I would recommend swapping out the front coils for ACs. I have little to no rake with mine. I guarantee you can resell the ARB coils on eBay but it probably won’t be the fastest sell. Might be better off looking for someone on here who wants them, or maybe some of the other Nissan r50 communities?

This is the roof basket I went with, just a basic cheap eBay one. One thing worth mentioning is that I don’t know if this rack will fit on top of the OEM crossbars. I removed the rear crossbar so that the rack could be mounted flush to the roof. The front crossbar I was able to keep on there by pushing it all the way forward https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-Roof-Rack-Cargo-Top-Luggage-Holder-Carrier-Basket-with-Extension-Travel/192058630233?pageci=2f26b205-d21d-4c26-8daa-3e5ac4eb4189&epid=2113517269

Excellent advise above I would also add the front Lokka to your list of mods since you mention you have access to cheap mechanics to do the swap for you. I’ve heard great things from those that have them installed, and I’m looking to add one to mine soon.

Wow! Rig looks incredible. I love the meaty rubber, did you need wheel spacers to keep from rubbing?

Yeah I’d honestly prefer to switch in the opposite direction. Like swapping in a manual transfer case from the AUTO one that my LE came with. It’s an absolute nightmare when it comes to manual hubs and there’s sensors and electronics everywhere that could go wrong and leave you screwed

Ah gotcha. Makes sense. My office got shut down for the virus so I’ve had lots of free time fortunately.

Fantastic work man. I’m glad I’m not the only one pimping the pathfinder during the quarantine. I’ve been surprised by the lack on activity on the forum lately, considering the circumstances. Great work on the tire carrier, love the clean look but I was always too nervous to do any drilling. The wrap job also looks very clean, I’m looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Looks great. I’m upgrading to the 9449s this week as well because the 9447s are sagging a bit too much under the weight I have in the rear. Can’t wait to see how they look

Thanks man. Yes sir that’s red rock. Stopped there while visiting the folks in Vegas