HitTheTrails

I think all the front struts you find for our trucks will have the same travel so this will be a problem with any struts you get. For the OME rear springs they will give you about 1.5"-1.75" lift. I know they say they are 0.5" lift but it is actually more lift than that. I think they will work well with the front springs you have.

I added mine on top of the whole strut assembly, between the strut mount and the truck itself. This way it pushes down the whole assembly and does cause the strut to top out.

Sometimes it's easier to break things free by just using a large breaker bar, and possibly a pipe on the end to give you even more torque. I have had trouble removing things with big impact guns and then finally gotten them off with breaker bar... Oh, and like others said, don't forget to use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or whatever your favourite penetrating oil is.

welcome to npora !!!

How is it surplus energy? The alternator might have "excess capacity" but it will be producing the energy that is needed based on the load. Any extra load being put on the alternator puts extra load on the engine and thus burns more fuel.

That was just out of previous knowledge. I pulled the energy density of fuel off the net somewhere, same with approximate efficiencies. B, thanks for that explanation, it makes sense. I have read that the addition of hydrogen will help the thermal efficiency, but I believe the amount you need to add in order to get results is pretty significant? I thought they were adding pressurized hydrogen and large amounts. well, by large I mean much more than you can produce with an on-board electrolysis running off the alternator... I wonder how much u need and if that will offset the energy needed to produce it in the first place... I agree that the amount of energy that TC is taking via the alternator is small so if it doesn't help it won't hurt that much. TC, sorry for the abrupt wording of some of my previous posts, I could of stated my opinions more politely. Good luck

Wow! Good to hear the only damage is a dent in the hood.

uncc, the coversion of energy from one form to another for this example (as I understand it) is as follows: Gasoline has an energy density of about 45 megajoules per kilogram (MJ/kg). Meaning if your engine was 100% efficient you would produce 45MJ of mechanical energy (kinetic energy of the flywheel, pulleys etc.) from one kg of gas. As we know, you will infact produce more like 5MJ of mechanical energy. This mechanical energy then has to be coverted to electrical energy via the alternator. Assuming the alternator is 50% efficient you are now left with 2.5MJ = 0.7 kilowatt-hours of electrical energy. This electrical energy is now converted to HHO at some efficiency, lets assume it's 80% (this is probably high). Now you have made 1.75MJ of HHO. So, you started off with 1 kg of gasoline, that was 45MJ of chemical energy and you are now left with 1.75MJ of chemical energy in the form of HHO. Even if this HHO was burned at 100% efficiency by the engine you would only get 1.75MJ of mechanical energy out of it, versus 5MJ if you were to just burn the gas in the first place. This is my simplified way of explaining how this cannot work If, on the other hand, the HHO was produced using electricity that came from solar panels on your car, or some other form of external energy you could get for free, then the gains would be worthwhile.

I'm not trying to "seem smart" I'm simply stating that you cannot get more energy out of something then you put in, so there is no way to improve your fuel mileage. Why would I bother wasting time and money on something that is obviously a scam. Why don't I try the fuel line magnets while I'm at it... If you KNOW people who are running these and are showing good results they must have changed their driving habits since installing...

Oh, I'm all for hydrogen as a fuel source. Up here in BC we are doing a lot of research into alternative fuels, including hydrogen powered vehicles, both internal combustion and fuel cell. Some links, local Vancouver companies: http://powertechlabs.com/cfm/index.cfm?It=901&Se=13 http://www.westport.com/about/index.php http://www.ballard.com/ I work in the hydro-electric industry myself.

+1

as far as i'm aware, you still cannot get more energy out of something than you put in... this reminds me of perpetual motion machines, nobody has made one yet... that would be cool to see though

Now that I've had a bit of time to read up on this subject I have to say that you will not be gaining fuel mileage by doing this. As with the current dilemma on using fuel cell technology, the amount of energy put into converting the water to Hydrogen and Oxygen is too great. In you situation you will be taking electrical energy from you alternator (which in turn is taking mechanical energy from your engine) and using it to produce gases from water by electrolysis. You will then take these gases and extract energy from them to power your engine. Because of the losses involved (mainly heat losses) you will not be able to get back as much energy as you put in (conservation of energy) and thus you will be decreasing fuel mileage. Basically you will be using more energy to produce the gases then you will be receiving back by burning the gases. It looks like you are having fun doing your experiments and I am glad to see that because you won't be gaining any fuel mileage....

Mine does the same thing sometimes. I haven't done anything about it yet. Haven't even looked to see if it might be the pivot at the pedal. It probably is sticking at the throttle body as others mentioned...

What I did was: -Jack truck up under the rear diff, put jacks stands under the frame, lower jack until brake lines were almost tight, get second jack and jack up one side thus lowering the other side, pulled springs out. I had already removed my shocks, and I'm pretty sure my rear swaybar was already removed. I didn't have to mess with the panhard. If you do this and still can't quite get the springs out try compressing them a bit with spring compressor and then pull them out...

Runnerman took a couple months to get me my skid plates after I paid him, and I was getting nervous that I wouldn't get anything, but the skid plates arrived and everything was all good. Hopefully you'll get your stuff soon

You don't want to amplify the output from your aftermarket head unit! I bypassed the amps by taking the input wires and output wires of the amps and connecting them. Just had to figure out which wires were which and go for it. It's not the best way to do it, best would be running new wires from head unit to speakers, but it was quick and easy, and it sounds pretty good.

Rear springs are easy. I lowered the axle down until the brake line was almost tight, and had the axle supported in the middle with a jack. Then I used another jack on the drivers side to push the drivers side of the axle up, thus lowering hte passenger side. Then I just reached in and yanked the spring out and put in the new spring. Same thing other side. as for removing the studs. I think i used a socket on the "head" side of the stud and then hit the threaded side with a hammer and they popped right out. Just use a socket that is slightly bigger then the head of the stud. good luck edit: oh yeah, the truck was supported on jack stands (under the frame) when using the hyraulic jacks on the rear axle...

$880, wow, good deal for a fun bush toy...

nice work, it looks really good!!!

I would change the transfer case oil out to A/T fluid asap. A/T fluid is much different than gear oil and Nissan says A/t fluid so... I changed my front/rear diffs to Castrol Synthetic 75W90 and it's been fine. I don't know why he would use half synthetic and half traditional oil for the front diff, should be okay but I wouldn't do it...

The OME springs will definately make the ride firmer. How much? Hard to say...

I have HD front and Med rear, with KYB GR-2's in the front and OME shocks in the rear. Ride is good and firm. I think you'll be happy with your ride quality on the street. The KYB's are good quality and cheap too.

I'm pretty sure I bought mine from summit racing, here is a link for 2004 KYB shocks/struts: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...9396+115+400286

Just an update: After this previous post I removed the vent control valve and the EVAP cannister behind the driver's side rear wheel again and cleaned the valve by spraying WD40 on it and used and rag to clean up a bit, then I put it back together. It's been almost 2 months now and I'm not getting any EVAP codes anymore. I guess all it needed was a bit of cleaning. This info might be useful to others having the same code (P0446). Cheers!