HitTheTrails

hey, i'm having problems updating my avatar. I sized it down appropriately and changed it in my settings, but when i see it in posts it is still my old avatar! i updated it about a week ago and my posts are still showing my old avatar. does anyone know what's going on? do you guys see my new avatar? my old one had me driving through a creek my new one shows me flexing out my truck help?

I've got a copy of solidworks and I'd be very interested in getting the files from you when you have them done.

Wow, that looks so clean. Nice work!!!!!!!

My 96 (Canadian model) came stock with the block heater installed but not the block heater cord. When I asked I was told that the block heater came installed from the factor for certain markets (Canadian and ??) but the heater cord was done at the dealership. I was told $50 for the cord and $100 to install the cord at the local dealership. I just happed to find a factory nissan cord in the local craigslist adds for $10, some guy bought it and never got around to installing it before he sold his truck. I install it myself and it was a huge PITA!!! On the 3.3L engine the block heater is located on the driver's side of the engine at about the mid point, under the manifold. You can remove the wheel and try to get your arm up in from that angle or go from under the engine at the front. I went from the front. I had dropped the plastic skid plate to do an oil change and had my oil filter removed, I reach in from where the oil filter would have been and had my arm snaked in there up to my armpit and had to use the small amount of force I could muster in my fingers to try and push the cord into the block heater to connect it. In the end I got it done for $10 but my arm was in some serious pain...

That should be fine. The comfort shocks are just less "stiff" so they provide a softer ride than going with the mediums.

I got mine from amazon.com, I live close to the border, so I got them shipped to an outlet on the US side of the border and then went down and brought them back accross.

The "comfort" refers to the rear shocks not the rear coils, so it won't have any effect on the rear height. I went with HD front coils and MED rear coils and the medium rear shocks. I got the KYB GR2 front struts. Oh, and I got the "trim packers" for the front. These are 5/16" spacers. I just went with KYB instead of OME because of price. I'm happy with my setup, about 1-3/4" lift in the rear, 1-7/8" in the front. I hope this info helps you, good luck.

I agree with you on PB Blaster, it's works great, I love it. I was using Liquid Wrench for years till I discovered PB Blaster.

It's easy enough to do yourselves. The only thing you'll need is the spring compressors. You can usually borrow/rent these from auto parts stores if you don't have them already. To remove the strut assembly from the truck it's really only 3 nuts at the top and two bolts at the bottom, plus the sway bar end link. Just a note on the sway bar end link, you use an allen key on the end of the bolt and a wrench on the nut, otherwise the when trying to loosen/tighten the nut the bolt will just spin. It puzzled me for a few minutes till I noticed the end of the bolt. Also, be carefull when using the spring compressors, there is lots of built up energy in the compressed spring. As for those KYB shocks, I would assume those are the stock length and if you are putting in lift springs you will want to get longer ones so they don't limit your travel as much. I can't say what part number you need though, I went with OME springs and shocks...

I'm not sure if the WD21's are different then my R50, but I have a power antenna and it broke while wheeling and I just replaced it. I bought a replacement mast off ebay for like $12USD and I just had to loosen the nut thing at the bottom of the antenna (right at the fender) and then I had my friend turn the radio on (antenna go up) and I pulled and the old antenna and toothed plastic thing came out. Then I took the new antenna mast and pushed the plastic tooth thing in and turned the radio off (antenna go down) and it sucked it in. Then just tightened up the nut thing and Bob's your uncle! The antenna mast came with instructions and it was very easy to do. If it is not a power antenna then I don't know...

Wow, averaging 12.7L/100km is good, I'm around 15.2L/100km if I remember correctly (I don't have my spreadsheet infront of me). I do have a tendency to be heavy footed though This is after approx. 9000km of tracking. I run regular gas, have auto tranny, and have 30" MTR's. Now that I installed the manual hubs I'm hoping I'll notice a slight decrease in consumption.

I totally understand your confusion, I just went through this too. The parts that Rocky Road sells are the same parts that ARB advertises as being a 1/2" lift. Rocky road sells the front in medium and heavy duty which translates to ARB's parts OME921 and OME923 respectively. ARB refers to these as stock/light and medium loads, adding to the confusion. If you click on the parts at the rocky road website and add them to the shopping cart the OME part number will appear so you can use this to cross reference to the ARB document. It appears that the heavy load front coils (OME928) are not sold by Rocky Road. Most people on this forum will agree that with the OME923 fronts (refered to as heavy duty by rocky road and most on this board) you will get 1-1/4" to 1-3/4" lift and OME921 fronts (medium) you will get 1 to 1-1/2" and with OME922 rears (medium) you will get 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" lift. Also, most people on this board seem to agree that with this OME lift (either med or heavy duty fronts and medium rears) you do not need to change to manual hubs and you don't have to worry about busting cv joints. However, with that said, swapping to manual hubs is cheap and very easy to do (just did it last week) so it's not a big deal to be on the safe side. Hopefully that clears things up a bit, anyone else correct me if I'm wrong

I have 30x9.5 MTR's on my rig and I love them!! I don't think they are too loud at all, and they perform great in all conditions. They have almost 20k on them and have not shown much tread wear! I'm very impressed.

I run synthetic all around. Castrol Syntec 5w50 in the engine and Castrol Syntec 75w90 in the diffs. I have used Syntec for many years in many vehicles and am very happy with it. I have just switched over to Shell Rotella T 5w40 fully synthetic oil because I can get a much better price for it and I have read that it is a very good synthetic. Hopefully I will be just as happy (or happier since its cheaper!)

I actually had two nissan fuel pumps fail on me, 90 240sx and 95 240sx. In the 95 the relay went as well. Luckily you can get cheap replacements at your local auto parts store and it's an easy swap. There are in the 240sx's and my 96 Pathy (under the rear seat), not sure about the older Pathys. Like uncc says, if you're worried about it you can always just carry a spare, it won't take up much room, it's just a small cylindrical thingy...

yeah, i have a bad front strut and my steering wheel does the same thing. just have a look and see if its leaking fluid...

I usually run bosch platinum or platinum +4's in my vehicles. They seem to work well and last a long time.

That is an interesting idea. That should stop the strut from topping out as the strut should not be the limiting factor when your front end is fully extended. However, you have to be careful if you are going to remove or disconnect your front sway bar because if the strut extender allows too much extra travel you might run the risk of your spring becoming unseated when your front wheel(s) are off the ground... As for leveling out the ride, you have to remember that when your truck is sitting still on level ground the strut is not "pulling" the spring down, nor is it "pushing" the spring up, the truck is just sitting on the spring with the strut near the middle of its travel (the strut has room to extend or contract) and so having more room to extend (by adding your strut extender) will not "lift" the truck at all, the only way to lift the truck is with longer/stiffer springs or adding a spacer on top of your strut. I think I explained that okay, feel free to ask any questions

Let's see some pics of what you are talking about! If you are making the struts longer by adding some extension, then this might stop the strut from maxing out but will not give you any lift... If you are talking about a spacer on top then this will give you lift but not stop the strut from maxing out... The two issues of 1) strut topping out and 2) leveling out the front end cannot both be solved by one solution. Unless I am missing something :worthless:

I might be wrong, but I believe that you can use any gear oil that meets lsd requirements in both the front and rear. You don't have to buy specific lsd gear oil for the rear and non-lsd gear oil for the front.

Hey guys, I contacted Marcel by email blackpantherorders@shaw.ca and ordered up front and middle skid plates. Even though his website is not up and running he is still selling BP skids, although he did mention that he doesn't have many left and he is currently re-designing the rear skid. The skids are in the mail, I'm so excited!!!

So, how did it go at RR??? You get your sliders made? Lets see some pics!

Rock-Road.com sells them cheaper than AC, I just ordered mine up today. I've read of some customer service issues with RR but hopefully everything goes smooth with my order. I ordered my KYB GR-2 struts from AJUSA.com for $120 shipped and ordered the OME HD front coils, RR trim packers, OME MED rear coils, OME medium Shocks from RR for approx $490 shipped (shipping cost not confirmed yet) from RR. All I need now is some cheap strut boots and some OEM strut bearings. Then it's manual hubs and sliders and skid plates.

Hi guys, this is my first post! Lots of great info here, thanks! I've been reading a lot about the lift options and think I have made up my mind on what I want (going with OME HD front and trim pack and OME Med rear) but I am confused about ordering up my struts/shocks. Are the front struts I order going to be the same length as the stock ones? I mean, do I just go into the local parts store and say "I want KYB GR2 struts for my 96 Pathfinder"? or do I need longer ones/can I get longer ones. How do I know what length/part # I need for the rear shocks? I've read that I'll want longer rear shocks but what length do I order? Also, if I want more than the 9/16" (or 1/4" as you guys say) spacer from Rocky Road can I get them from somewhere else? Where? Thanks for the replies