HitTheTrails

I'm interested in the steering linkage that goes from the Rack to the gear box (located at end of steering column). This is where I've extended mine for the SFD. I'm also interested in the clock spring located under the steering wheel (it gives electricity to the airbag and cruise control and horn). If you msg me your email I can send pics. Thanks.

Yeah, it'll work the same. I had to do some cutting on my fender flares for the tires not to rub, and also had to cut some of the front bumper and fender up front. You might fit a bit better with the extra height, but you'll probably still need to trim the flares a bit. With 3.75" back spacing the 33"x12.5" tires tuck nicely into the rear wheel well.

I must have done the same thing. I have flashing air-bag light and no horn since the SFD.. Now it makes so much sense why people recommended tying the steering wheel to prevent rotation during the SFD lift.. So do I have to remove the airbag to get at the spiral cable / clock-spring ? There doesn't seem to be many for sale on Ebay, I hope I can get one for cheap at a local wrecker..

I have 3.5" SFD and OME coils and run 33x12.5 on 15x8 with 3.75" backspacing. Works perfect.

Looks great!!! Glad to see another SFD completed.

I just popped off the inside door trim on the side I was replacing and then reached my hand in to change the bulb. I didn't remove that bolt and didn't fully remove the door trim. Be careful with those little plastic trim holder clips though, they break easy.

All done, looks sweet. Completely stock: 3.5" SFD/OME, 5.5" custom lift coils: I used Pro Comp rear shocks, EXP-929500, Extended/Compressed length: 29.83/17.32in. I have the KYB GR2 front struts and OME 923 coils. Those are 31's on it right now, I'll be putting on 33's soon.

Before I installed my rear coils I measured the uncompressed length, 18.75". This is 5" longer than the OME Medium rear coils I removed (13.75"). I ordered 5.5"+ lift springs with 160lb/in spring rate. I think these rear coils are more than 5.5" over stock though, cause at 5" longer and stiffer than OME (OME 922 are 140lb/in), they will give more than 5" over the OME, and those are 1.5" over stock.. I'm not done with the front though so I can't say for certain, but with 3.5" SFD and OME coils up front, I think the rear is going to be 1" higher than the front. Having 18" uncompressed length probably would have been better. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

When I did mine I already had the struts out so I used an an impact and a long extension(no u-joint needed). If you remove the axle before removing the struts then an impact probably won't work and you'll have use a breaker bar to crack them loose and use the air rachet to spin them out.

I used the OME rear shocks (N61) with my OME lift and they are great. Extended length = 607mm, compressed = 367mm (23.9in/14.4in). The OME shocks were the limiting factor when flexed out and never had any issues with this...

I used the 923 (medium) fronts and the 922 (medium) rears. I also used the OME rear shocks and have been very happy with the setup. I've heard the springs are the same length, just different springs rates and you only want to use the HD (928) fronts if you have a heavy bumper or something otherwise they are too stiff... Here is my email to ARB tech support and their response, on specs for the OME front and rear coils: Hi, Can you please tell me some technical info about the products you sell for R50 pathfinders (my truck is a 1997): 1) Pathfinder Rear Shock - Item # N61. What is the compressed/extended length? 2) Pathfinder Front Coil Springs - Item # 923 - What is the spring rate? 3) Pathfinder Rear Coil Springs - Item # 922 - What is the spring rate? Thanks. Hi, 1) N61- Open:607; Closed:367 2) OME923: 200 lbs/in 3) OME922: 140 lbs/in Hope that info helps! Matt Glass ARB USA Tech and Marketing Assistant

Taking out the axle was actually one of the easy parts. Generally dealing with rusted bolts was the tough part. I had to cut off both sway bar links, from the sway bar ends and the strut ends cause they were so bad. Many other bolts had to use lots of leverage, even after soaking with penetrant. I'm replacing all 4 of the knuckle to strut bolts as they are in such bad shape, rusted out and wrecked threads..

I have the 923's up front and got about 1.25" - 1.5" after settling. Even with 1.75" lift (if you get that from the 928's) you should be fine, I wouldn't bother getting custom front springs made just to fine tune because of 1/4", you might end up getting 2" lift from the custom springs, you never know...

I ordered my 5.5" lift coils for the rear on Mar 17 and they called me yesterday (May 18) to say they are ready to ship them. Basically took 9 weeks to finish the springs and I'm guessing another week for shipping, 10 weeks total. I was told 4-6 weeks. Not sure what the issue was but I'm excited they're on their way! My order # is 2523 if you want to reference that for the rear coils. As for the front, I thought they had a database full of stock spring specs and they would use that to go off, but maybe they don't.. FYI, the front springs you have (OME right?) are 200# and provide you with ~ 1.5" of lift, so why do you want new ones??? For everyone's info, here is my email to ARB tech support and their response, on specs for the OME front and rear coils: Hi, Can you please tell me some technical info about the products you sell for R50 pathfinders (my truck is a 1997): 1) Pathfinder Rear Shock - Item # N61. What is the compressed/extended length? 2) Pathfinder Front Coil Springs - Item # 923 - What is the spring rate? 3) Pathfinder Rear Coil Springs - Item # 922 - What is the spring rate? Thanks. Hi, 1) N61- Open:607; Closed:367 2) OME923: 200 lbs/in 3) OME922: 140 lbs/in Hope that info helps! Matt Glass ARB USA Tech and Marketing Assistant

tekazgtr1984, I thought you want to run 33x12.5R15's on 15x8 wheels with 3.75" backspacing? Those should clear your strut fine. I have 31x10.5R15 on my truck right now with the same spec wheels and it looks like I have plenty of room to fit 33x12.5's and I've read the same statement around NPORA a few times... If I were you I'd just get the tires/wheels you want and see how they fit, if you need to you can run your existing tires/wheels while you order up spacers. You gotta remember that if you space your tires/wheels out too much than they're gonna hit the outer parts of the fender when you try to stuff them... ps. those viper wheels you're interested in look sweet.

WOW! The truck looks HUGE. Good work.

The measurements listed on page 5 are not wrong, shift220 used 2.5" x 3.5" tube, cut to be 6" long. The measurement missing in his drawings is the 3.5" tall measurement, which he listed in text. new4x4r used 2"x4" tube (and also 3"x4" tube), cut to be 6" long, so that's why the confusion...

Looks great! Nice work Fleurys.

Yes, its a 27mm or you can use 1-1/16" socket, that's what I use.

If you live in Vancouver then you are basically in the middle of the 2 wheeling areas of the lower mainland. You can either head up to Squamish or you can head out to Mission and Chilliwack. If you go up to Squamish you can run some trails around Squamish Valley Road/Paradise Valley Road. From Highway 99, north of Brackendale, exit left at the Squamish Valley Road (opposite Alice Lake). Follow it 2.5km and over the train tracks to the main fork for Squamish Valley (left) and Paradise Valley (right). If you head east out into the valley you can try up around Stave lake but it is a very busy place. Head East on Dewdney Trunk Road until you come to Stave Lake Powerhouse, turn left up the gravel road (Burma road I think-on the west side of the lake). Follow this road for 5km or so and you will come to a fork, you can go left up the mountains or right onto the Stave Lake mud flats. You can also try out in Chilliwack at Vedder mountain or around Chipmunk Creek. Head east on Hwy 1 and follow the signs to Cultas Lake. After passing through the town of Yarrow you can turn onto the Cultas Lake road and go a few km and you will see a turnoff to the right just before you get into town, this goes up Vedder mountain. Careful cause there's lots of mountain bikers and dirt bikers around there. If you want to go to Chipmunk Creek/Mt. Thurston area you would pass the Cultas exit and cross the little bridge and then turn right onto Chilliwack Lake Road. You can follow this road for a while (like 20km) and you will see signs to turn left to go onto Chipmunk Creek FSR and others. I spend a lot of time around Chehalis Lake and Cultas Lake. Head east on Lougheed past Mission and Deroche and you will come to "Sasquatch Pub" - turn left. You'll see signs for Hemlock Mountain ski resort at this turn too. Almost immediately you come to a 4 way stop. Turn left and you will be taken towards Chehalis Lake. Go straight and you pas the Hemlock road turn-off and will eventually come to the beginning of Harrison West FSR. Lots to explore around there. There was a big landslide near the north end of Chehalis lake so you can't pass by this now but you use to be able to go all the way up the west side of Chehalis and then turn right and head east down to the Harrison West Road. If you're not already familiar with BC4x4.com check out their board and click on "trail talk" to see what people are talking about for trail conditions etc. Also, they have organized trail runs that you could go on with them to learn a bit about the area. It's usually listed under upcoming events: http://bb.bc4x4.com/ You will read about Eagle Ridge, which is close by in Coquitlam, but if your truck is stock there isn't much for you to do there.. These are just some suggestions off the top of my head. Good luck. Have fun. Oh, and get a back road map book for this area so you can have a look just to get familiar with the names of locations that people refer to, it'll help. You can get a book at Canadian Tire and elsewhere.

Don't forget the coolant "bypass hose"!!! I just did my timing belt and water pump last weekend. I had a coolant leak. Turns out it was the "bypass hose" that was leaking. It's the hose that goes from the back side of your thermostat housing to up around the top of the thermostat, it is short hose with a 90deg turn. The previous owner had the timing belt done at the dealership and they changed the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and cam shaft seals but neglected to change out the bypass hose or the other short coolant hose on the other side of the thermostat. Tough luck for me. Since I was in there I did the timing belt and water pump (only had 90,000km on them), but I didn't bother with the cam seals or the tensioner or the thermostat. They all seemed to be in good shape so I left them alone... Just my 2 cents...

Bad upstream (at header) O2 sensors will definately affect your gas mileage. $95 is about right. Replace the other one and you should be better.

I think I put 19-20 gal in one time when i ran out, but I stopped as soon as the filler clicked and didn't try to "top up" the rest so I think u might be able to get the full 21 gal in there...

don't forget about the air filter. it might look pretty good but still be effecting your gas mileage. as for gas remaining in your tank, the tank is 21 gal so compare that to what you are putting in (assuming it was full to begin with) my mileage is much worse in the winter too..