HitTheTrails

Yeah, shipping those heavy skids from Manitoba out to BC wasn't cheap, but the skids are definately worth it. They have held up well for me thus far.

I was able to get ahold of him with this email: blackpantherorders@shaw.ca

Contact runnerman and see if he has any (or will make more) R50 skid plates. I love mine!

It is on the driver's side of the engine, on the side of the engine under the exhaust manifold. If there isn't a cord attached to it then there should be an orange (I think it was orange) plug to protect the connection. If you look from the front driver's side wheel well area up along the exhaust pipe you should be able to catch a glimps of this orange protective plug thing. I could see mine and that confirmed to me that all I needed was the cord. It is a HUGE PITA to be able to reach up in there and connect the plug though. I ended up going at it from the front side of the truck, while I was in the middle of an oil change. I had already removed the front splash guard and the oil filter, I reached my arm in through the area where the oil filter was and up to where I had to connect the plug. My arm was all twisted up trying to reach all the way and I could only muster a bit of force in the ends of my fingers to push the connector on to connect it. Then I zip tied the cord a few places and brought it out the front grill.

I'm not sure, I think maybe only R50's sold in certain markets (like Canada) had a block heater installed at the factory. The cable was installed at the stealership if it was installed. Mine had a block heater but no cable, I bought the cable and hooked it up myself. BIG PITA!!!!

I agree on using the second style of spring compressors mentioned here. That is the kind that I own and have used them many many times on various vehicles. Another tip, when using that style you want the two compressors 180 degrees from each other to compress the coil evenly, if you find the spring compressors sliding down the coil (because you are not compressing from the flat ends of the coils but from another spot within the coil) try using a small vise grip or clamp on the downward side of the compressor to keep it from sliding down the coil. Also, I like to hold the strut in a bench vise while I work on them to keep it stable. Good luck.

I agree with nissandoms47. I just used a socket and my bench vise, worked great!

Hi guys, I need some help with EVAP system. I got P0325 and P0446 as fault codes, with both of them also listed as pending. I read the knock sensor code is no big deal, my engine isn't knocking or pinging, but the other code, P0446 (EVAP Emmision Control System Vent Circuit Malfunction) bothered me so I started investigating. I read the how-to that QuismO wrote and I checked out the purge volume control valve, there was no charcoal in it or the hoses to/from it and I spilt it apart and made sure the motor is working and the grey plastic valve is operating (goes in/out with ignition on/off). I also checked the purge control valve and it's hose, all clean in there too. So next thing I checked was the vent control valve and the EVAP cannister behind the driver's side rear wheel. The cannister didn't seem to be loosing charcoal (none coming out when shaking) and I removed the valve and used a 12VDC power source to verify it was working properly (valve plunger goes up with power, drops back down when power is removed). Next thing I did was blow air from the engine bay to where the cannister was just as in QuismO's how-to and no charcoal came out or anything, seems clear. So I just put everything back together. I drove to work today and checked my codes again and now I'm also getting P0443 as a pending code (along with p0325/p0446 fault codes)! Please help me with any ideas/suggestions...

Thanks guys. I borrowed a buddies scan tool for now, it's a Geniscan GS300 CAN OBD2 reader. I think I will buy a scan-gauge sometime in the near future, they seem pretty cool. On a side note: I got P0325 and P0446 as fault codes, with both of them also listed as pending. I read the knock sensor code is no big deal, my engine isn't knocking or pinging, but the other code, P0446 (EVAP Emmision Control System Vent Circuit Malfunction) is bothering me. I read the how-to that QuismO wrote and yesterday I checked out the purge volume control valve, there was no charcoal in it or the hoses to/from it and I spilt it apart and made sure the motor is working and the grey plastic valve is operating (goes in/out with ignition on/off). I also checked the purge control valve and it's hose, all clean there too. So next thing I'm gonna check is the vent control valve and the EVAP cannister behind the driver's side rear wheel. Is this the only other thing to check? How is the vent control valve suppose to operate? Can I check it with iginition on/off just like I did for the purge volume control valve? Any other ideas? ps. I cleared the codes and drove and the same ones are coming back on again... My check engine light is back on right now.

thanks for the info. i like the scangauge, its pretty cool. i wonder if there are any current group buys going on right now, especially from canadian vendors...

Hey guys, I've decided to buy a code reader and am trying to figure out what to buy. I've been reading that Actron and Equus are good brands for handhelds, and are decently priced. The Actron CP9125 is $43 at amazon and will simply read/reset the codes. If I want to have live monitoring/recording I have to step up to something like Equus 3130 ($167) or get something like the Elmscan 5 USB interface and run software like ProScan on my laptop ($140 for the Elmscan and ProScan package). I'm not sure if I want to have to use the laptop everytime I scan for code or just use the handheld. If I do just get a handheld should I bother getting the extra features (like Equus 3130) or just get a simple tool to read/reset codes (Actron CP9125). Anyone have any opinions/experience?

Sounds like BS to me...

Here is a link: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...6&hl=rotors

Wow! I just finished reading through the main points in that thread. I really hope it's just the people at Cafepress being anal and not Ford!!!

I'm pretty sure the way he worded his post was that he was transfering the yakima rack, wheels/tires/hubs.. etc to the Xterra.

I may also be interested in the sliders. I live in Canada, but have a US mailing address, no worries there

You made the right choice. 15x8 w/ 3.75 bs and 31x10.5r15 tires is a very good setup. 4.5 bs is too much.

What size?

The additional power to the rear wheels that keelhaul was refering to is only if you have the warn hubs unlocked (2wd position) and shift your transfer case into 4Lo. You would probably never do this...

Lookin good ozzy!!!!

Using tire size calculator 265/70/16 is actually slightly smaller than 31x10.5x15 so it should fit. you might have a bit of rubbing but shouldn't be too bad, you could take care of it after. http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculato...p?action=submit

Yeah, get them outta there. Reminds me of people using cheap clamp things to lower their cars....

Hmmmmm......

Wow, I logged in today and I still had my old avatar, then I refreshed the page and my new one appeared, so weird... Thanks guys.

also, when trying to change my avatar today with an even smaller pixel size/file size pic of me flexing out my truck i get this message: IPB WARNING [2] filesize() [function.filesize]: Stat failed for ./uploads/av-4230.jpg (errno=2 - No such file or directory) (Line: 1402 of /sources/lib/func_usercp.php) and now in my avatar profile setting it just shows a red x where my avatar pic is suppose to be???