HitTheTrails

Go with KYB struts. You said they are "off the list" but many people here, including me, use KYB stuts are are very happy with them. They don't come with strut boots though, so you'll also have to buy those, just get generic ones. KYB strut mounts have been know to be poor though, so go with OEM strut mounts.

You don't want to rely on the underbody rear tire anyways, it'll just get punctured on a rock at some point and then you'll have no spare. Best thing is to throw it up on the roof or try to fit it in the back...

I've got Procomp MT's on my truck, 31x10.5R15, and I'm not unhappy with them, but I think there are better tires out there. I've put a lot of KM's on mine now and have good tread wear, they are great off-road, but the on-road characteristics could be better. They are horrible is the rain (and I get a lot of rain here in Vancouver) and pretty loud (compared to other MTs). If you don't drive much in the rain or slippery snow then I'd say they would be good for you. I give mine a good beating off-road and they take the abuse. My only comparison is with Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's and BFG MT's, both I would say are better than the ProComps. But, like I said, these tires do great off-road, the price is good, and treadwear is pretty good. My big problem with them is how they behave in the rain/slush/snow on pavement.

Those rates seem reasonable. If you wanna save a bit you could get them to install the KYB GR2 struts instead... That's why I chose them instead of OME, and I'm happy with mine (seems like everyone else is too). I have the OME shocks and they seem good too. Hubs you can definately do yourself, and I think I paid around $130 shipped, save yourself $200 doing it yourself.

I've got KYB-GR2's up front and am very happy with them. I do have the OME rear shocks though, happy with them too.. I think I've got ~40,000kms on my lift now.

I have the OME923 springs up front. www.rocky-road.com refers to them as HD, but ARB (OME) refers to them as Medium. I bought mine from rocky-road along with the trim packers (one set). I got ~1.5" up front and 1.75" in the rear after settling out. I use KYB GR2 struts and OME rear shocks and am very happy with everything. I also removed my rear sway bar, more flex and not much different on-road. I decided to go with OME because I didn't want any topping out issues and I've heard nothing but great things about Old Man Emu suspensions.

I have the OME lift and it works fine with the stock wheels. You can find it at http://www.rocky-road.com/pathfindersus.html That's where I ordered mine from. I ordered what they call the HD front coils (which turn out are actually the mediums - OME923 is the part #) and the medium rear coils (OME922), the medium rear shocks (OMEN61) and a pair of "trim packers" (NI7100). I think I may have actually ordered the package that came with the front/rear coils and the rear shocks (OMEPATH96) and added the trim packers to the order. I then ordered up KYBGR2 struts from another website. I am very happy with this lift.

Wow, I've never heard of this. My brakes suck, maybe the rears aren't breaking much?? I guess I need to check this out. thanks.

Now this has got me wondering. I ordered the "HD" front springs from Rocky Road and I think I got the 923's (I'll have to check my pics), so if I did get the 923's then I guess I have the "Medium" springs and not the "HD"'s.... Zibi, the springs I installed gave me about 1.75" lift initially, now it's settled out to around 1.5" or maybe 1.25"...

I know the OP is interested in A/T tires, but I have the Pro Comp MT tires and I wouldn't buy them again. They are great off-road but on-road they suck. My previous tires were Goodyear Wrangler MTR's and they are WAY better! The MTR's worked great on-road and off. The Pro Comps just seem "cheap" overall....

that's what happened to mine. i was hearing squeeling sounds so i went and bought all 3 new belts to change them (tightening didn't fix problem). i changed the belts but during reassembly i noticed that the crank pulley( also refered to as harmonic balancer) didn't line up quite right. i ignored it and started up my engine. WOW! loud banging and squeeling sounds. shut off engine right away. looked at the pulleys and belts and realized that the crank pulley had separated from the inner hub (the outer part and inner part are connected by rubber, thats what makes the pulley a 'harmonic balancer') and was moving towards the radiator. so i had to order up a new crank pulley, and it was pricey!!!! i think the dealer wanted $350 and i ordered it online for like $180 but when it arrived the bore of the pulley was slightly smaller than my existing pulley and i had to enlarge it to make it fit onto the shaft. what a PITA!!! so bottom line, don't just assume its bad belts, it might be the harmonic balancer, or it could also be a bad idle pulley....

my valve cover screws were all loose so i tightened them up (except for a few i couldn't reach without removing other stuff) and now my oil leak is very minimal. hopefully tightening them up will fix your problem. keep an eye on your oil level and see how it goes.

The thieves know how to steal cars, they don't need to come to NPORA to learn. Many cars work this way, it's not that uncommon. Yeah, that works well, my old truck had one, it was hidden in the rear ash tray. I didn't install it but I assume you just need to find the fuel pump wire and splice in a switch. You can bring the wires/switch to a nice hidden location so it's not obvious. In my 240sx I was worried about it gettin stolen and I never got around to installing a kill switch so I just removed the 20amp (or whatever) fuel pump fuse when it was parked overnight or in a risky location.

The problem with our alarms is that turning the key in the doors/rear hatch will disable the alarm. Try it yourself, instead of pressing the remote to unlock the truck, just insert the key and unlock the door. This does the same thing as pressing the unlock button on the alarm, it unlocks the door and disables the alarm. So if the thief uses a screwdriver and jams in into the keyhole and turns the screwdriver the alarm will disable and the door will unlock. Then he can go right ahead and hot-wire the truck. As far as I know, as long as the door lock mechanism turns (whether by key/screwdriver/slimjiim) the alarm will disable. However, if the guy smashes the window and reaches in and opens the door I believe the alarm does go off. Try it with your window down to check... So basically the alarm is not very useful cause most thief know how it works (note, my gf's 04 jetta works the same way and a thief just did this with a screwdriver...) If the alarm goes off (siren sounds etc.) then you are not able to start the engine (even with the key) until the alarm is disabled, so this is the only positive thing about the alarm.

Hey, just thought I'd throw in my 2cents. I had a little problem removing those lower bolts too. I think I ended up using a lot of Liquid Wrench penetrating oil and let it soak in good and then used an 18" breaker bar with a pipe over it so that it was like 3-4 ft long and I stepped/jumped on the end of the bar to get them to break loose. (note: using a breaker bar with a pipe on it to get extra length almost always works, usually I'll do this if the impact doesn't work) I have a 1/2" impact and that wouldn't break them loose but worked good to remove them once they started to turn. I never use a torque wrench to remove bolts, only to tighten them. I didn't notice the little hex key thing on the end of the sway bar link either, so I screwed up the drivers side one removing it and then did it properly on the passenger side. Now my drivers side one clunks over every bump, I'll have to replace it at some point... Nice to see you attempted to do it yourself and were able to get it mostly done. Too bad you couldn't complete the job.. Post pics once its all done!

The FOB on my 240sx had a really weak signal, changed the battery and still weak. I had to use the FOB when I was standing right next to the car. So yeah, I think they can wear out...

they work fine with the stock wheels on my 97...

ooops, sorry, my bad...

yup, rear ones are easy, i had to do one of mine a few months back. fronts, I don't know...

I don't understand. How could u put in spacers for a lift and still have stock ride height?

I like the idea of welding the rock washers, or welding a plate with a large hole (like MY1PATH said). That should work well. Maybe I'll do that next time I remove my skids. I also want to strengthen the mounting points for the front skid as the little M6 (or whatever) bolts that hold the front of the front skid get stipped out really easy. There are some other larger threaded holes in that area that could be used...

Oh, OK. Kinda hard to tell from the picture. So that's weird, Marcel has some special hook-up for these things??? They look like something you could just buy... PS. I've already lost one of mine on the trail...

Maybe he's talking about the skid plate that Dean has installed. I have the same one on mine. Not very strong but better than nothing, and it would be a good template to build a stronger one from. Pics are at http://www.xplorx4.com/

Good find GG. Those look right. "Cup Washers with Flange" under the Finishing washer category. I guess Pezzy was on the right track...

I had 30"x9.5" MTR's on my last truck (Chevy S10 Blazer) and put them on my Pathfinder when I first got it. They are GREAT tires! The handle well on-road and are not TOO loud and are incredible off-road. I liked them better than my current Pro-comp muds.