Sjackson2

passenger side done. Holy hell this was a pain in the ass!! It took me over an hour to figure out how to get this thing out and I destroyed this flex extension trying to do It

drivers side o2 sensor replaced. Came out super easy. Took almost no force to remove it

I drew a crappy pic of the plenum on some cardboard and pushed all the bolts into it in their corresponding places o I could put them back where hey go later as they are different lengths

Lower plenum off

upper plenum removed

Ok so I decided to tackle both front o2 sensors today as well as doing the loctite on the powervalves and replacing the etc sensor.

Spray it down with on blaster and clamp a vice grip on it and spin it out

I believe those are basically just resistors that like you said, make the ecu believe it is receiving colder air

I’d be pretty skeptical about putting something like that on when there’s no shop you can go back to if it causes you issues. You have no idea who performed the tune or what they tuned it to

Exactly...and John jackson from jackson motors ports who built the original prototype said that the conduit was just as good as his. The only reason he built his is so it could be a mounting point for a skid plate

Go with this one. Cheap on amazon, free shipping with prime. And links up great. Use the torque pro or car gauge pro app with it. If you go with the car gauge app you can do the self learn and idle volume learn with it as well as adjusting base timing by plus or minus two degrees https://www.amazon.com/EDIAG-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Android/dp/B06Y5YFQ63/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?crid=U1PZKWTGF6Z2&keywords=elm327+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1550515792&s=gateway&sprefix=elm32&sr=8-16

If I was gonna pull the pump off a truck this old, is probably replace the fan clutch too.

I used permatex rtv per the fsm

The bar should be 23 3/4 long. Holes are about 22.5 inches apart

I just think the capacitor is a band aid for a larger overall problem. There’s no reason that the factory alternator shouldn’t be able to handle the draw from an electric fan. Something else is going on and a capacitor will just mask it

I know it’s unlikely to cause problems. Unless you live somewhere very cold maybe. Tons of owners have done it, myself included. The only time the coolant does you any good is on startup anyways. And yes....I don’t like the idea of splicing into the wiring

and I’d look into testing and getting a new alternator before I put caps iine to the fan

I would not use the fuse. Just bypass the coolant line to the throttle body and you’ll never have to worry about coolant leaking into your iacv. And definitely clean it out.

Failing to start the car, and still having sufficient voltage are two different things. Get it checked. No it does not require a consult scanner. Depending on the year of your vehicle there are two different methods

I’m by no means a master fabricator....but I love tinkering and I’m super pumped to see some cool things come out for our pathys. If you guys ever need help with anything at all, I literally live a block from hawairish and would be happy to assist. Do you guys plan to do mostly frame and suspension related parts...or are any other items in the works? It’d be great to see some things like cold air boxes, snorkels and snorkel mounts, pre dabbed trans cooler brackets. I’m hoping to get some cardboard and some plastic or aluminum sheeting pretty soon here to mock up a cold air box and I’d like to do a trans cooler soon too.

Is your battery up to snuff? Have you done the idle volume relearn? Cleaned out the iacv? I would do all these before I started trying to mess with the idle

What tranny cooler is everyone running? I’ve seen a lot of wools like the b&m. What about Hayden? Anybody using this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0714MSVWH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3B850ZGIPDG3A&psc=1

Will al LR springs need milled to install, or was it just the 9448 for some reason? *edit* nevermind. Saw that they fit without milling

9447 is the lowest amount of lift

Perfect!! Thanks a ton.