neilca

I plan on making a rear bumper with a carrier. In preparation, I bought a factory license plate holder off a truck that had a carrier. It mounts on the drivers side edge of the rear hatch. BUT it doesn't look like it will fit my truck. The mount is from a 1997 and mine is a 1999. It seems the mount wants a flat rear hatch. Was there a flat rear hatch?

From what I have read, the bellhousings for the 3.3 and 3.5 are different. So you need to swap trannies too.

I'm a 59 year old fat guy and I did mine by myself using jack stands I didn't think it was too bad

Thanks for the verification. I don't think I will need a second set of chamber bolts.

I replaced a bunch of parts in the front end and lifted it 2 inches. I have camber bolts in the top hole of the strut. Now how much chamber do I need. The only spec I have found says 0.17 positive degrees. I have never set up a car with positive camber. What is the factory spec for camber?

Exactly! But I left the chassis on jack stands and put the jack under the lower arm and lift until the chassis just comes off the stand. Then tighten the bolts.

The front bushing is fixed in the lower arm. If you tighten it up in the droop position when you ride down the road the bushing will be flexed the whole time. Likewise for the aft bushing but not as much. The rotation of the front bushing is not a true rotation but flexing of the rubber within the bushing.

Now a couple of things on the lower arms. First an old mechanic showed me how to remove ball joints and tie rod ends using only a large hammer. It has never failed me in the 44 years I have played with cars. 1. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut holding the joint. Bring the nut all the way to the end of the threads. 2. DO NOT HIT THE JOINT WITH THE HAMMER. Hit the housing (spindle) that the joint goes through with a solid hit. The nut is left on the joint in case you miss. These joints are tapered pins, what you are doing is creating a shock wave through the housing to break the taper. It will take several good hits and the joint will come loose. Second when you tighten the rubber bushings of the lower control arm I jacked up my arms to ride height so the position was neutral at ride height. Hope that helps.

I just did mine. First pull the sway bar off the truck and get it out of the way. I replaced the rack first and installed urethane mount bushings. You will need to loosen the V drive on the steering to gain enough movement to remove the steering link. The tricky part is the reinstall when you clock the steering wheel to the rack. Here is the procedure 1. Hook up all the mounts and fittings to the rack, do not attach the tie rod to the spindle yet. 2. Hook up the steering shaft to the rack. 3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. 4. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left counting the number of turns, I put a piece of tape on the top of my wheel for counting, I think mine was 3 turns 5. Turn the wheel back to the half way mark, 1 1/2 turns in my case. At this point the rack is centered but the steering wheel probably is not. 6. Disconnect the steering shaft from rack, center the steering wheel and reconnect the rack. It's a pretty easy job, good luck

I use the crank bolt and socket. I put together a graphic but cannot post it since I used to use Photobucket

The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning. Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center.

You are going to have to move the crank such that the pistons are not at top dead center. Then rotate the cams to the timing position, then bring the crank to TDC. DO NOT FORCE anything and you should be OK. BTW replace the timing belt anytime you are in this deep. My $0.02

The base units do have provisions in that there are knock out panels. Just cut between the lines. Hardest part is removing the glove box. Oh and finding a clip to hold the filters in place. Sorry I didn't get pictures when I did mine.

I did the mod today to my 99 Pathfinder. I used a box cutter to cut out the plastic, it is very thin. BTW cut out only the plastic between the lines. I did not have a clip so I made one. Not as good as the factory one I am sure, but holding right now. Has anyone sourced these clips yet?

Does anyone have pictures they can post on this mod? I am wanting to add these filters to my 99.

Uh is that rubber bushing on the ground out of place?

How many switch switch when you first start switching? Oh boy!

That makes more sense than wired backwards

I see what you did there, LOL. I am wondering if the previous owner replaced the switch with a Chinese unit that is internally switched. The switch uses plugs not individual wires so switching would be difficult.

I am new to the Pathfinder so this may be a rookie question. The switch to the drivers window has to be pulled up to get the window to go down. Pushing down on the switch raises the window. The other windows work in the conventional manner. Has the previous owner swapped wires to make the window work in reverse or this this the way the factory intended?

My calipers have two boots per side. I just bought one of these kits to replace them http://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Caliper-Bushing-Front-Rear-Better-Brake-16043-/222439068811?epid=76090573&hash=item33ca66d48b:g:XrwAAOSw9~5ZOj~R&vxp=mtr

I am doing some heavy maintenance on my 1999 SE. I am trying to replace all the rubber hoses and have successfully except the heater hoses. They are located along the firewall and very difficult to see. I was hoping someone had a diagram of all the hoses so I can be sure to replace them all. I know the one I miss will leave me stranded.

Started on the next phase of my work on the 99 Pathy, timing belt, power steering rack replacement, AC compressor, front axles and associated parts. That should get me on the road.

I watched the first video and I think I would have stopped after cleaning the steering wheel. I wouldn't bother covering that.

Curious, what tire size are you running?