neilca

These are the same problems on my 1999. I rebuilt the transmission first. The front end, a new timing belt and brakes are next. It is amazing to me how people let their cars go so out of repair. There are no steering rack bushings in my truck and the previous owner said he didn't notice any play in the steering!? You don't drive this thing you herd it. BTW great transformation.

Yes you should always replace the drier with a new compressor. Also use a vacuum pump to evacuate the system. Oh and don't forget the oil in the lines. Happy cooling!

Finished rebuilding my automatic transmission. Just took it around the block and it worked! Shifted up to third and no slippage.

You must mean the differential case to wheel hub movement. That should do that. That doesn't mean the CV's aren't dry or worn which may be your noise. Pull back the boots and see if they joints are dry.

The CV's have to have side to side play because the axle needs to lengthen and contract as it goes through it's travel arc. Same reason your front drive shave has a slip joint and the rear shaft slips in and out of the transfer case. This is not a problem.

Nothing worse to clean than Georgia red clay.

The breather line is attached by one of the bellhousing bolts on the top of the bellhousing, really hard to see.

I pulled my transmission for a rebuild and was able to reach up and break off the sensor pretty easily. I was going to try and remove the mount bolt but it was too much of a pain to reach.

I have been contemplating the Jeep XJ bumper kits, so I will be following this thread too. I would like to add a tire mount to the rear bumper too.

Thanks, I do have the 1999.5 wheels so it is all about the backspacing. Would you know the backspacing of the earlier wheels? I will measure mine for comparison.

Are you sure the 265/75/16 will fit? I have read I would need wheels or wheel spacers to clear the strut.

Is this a single or dual turbo application and what kind of boost are you planning? Thanks for the info I may use this in the future.

What injectors are you using. I had read it was impossible to get big injectors for the stock fuel rail in a turbo application. Has that changed?

Disconnected everything to pull the automatic trans out of my 99. The only thing left is the rear cross member and the upper two bell housing bolts. This thing has never been apart before and my gosh the bolts are really tough to break loose. I am an old guy and sore as hell right now. I will spend the summer slowly rebuilding the trans.

Here are more options. https://www.jcroffroad.com/category/XJB.html Yes small bits are much easier, not to mention trying to break 3/16 plate. A buddy of mine made bumpers for his YJ from A to Z kits worked great.

This may answer a few more questions http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36674-xj-cherokee-bumper-mod/

This is the type of kit I was thinking of. All the parts are cut but not assembled. https://atozfabrication.com/jcr-offroad-diy-front-winch-bumper-for-jeep-cherokee-xj.html?category_id=74 Gives you a lot of flexibility and this for the rear https://atozfabrication.com/jcr-offroad-diy-rear-bumper-for-jeep-cherokee-xj.html?category_id=74

When I first posted this I was thinking rear bumpers. It is good the fronts are viable. I will search for the Utube video. The mounts on the rear should be able to be moved. My reason for using the kit is all that 3/16 plate can be a pain to cut. Though shipping all that weight could be expensive.

I have seen a lot of bumper kits for the Jeep Cherokee in my search for one to fit the Pathfinder. Has anyone compared sizes of the Cherokee to the Pathfinder bumpers? I was thinking of buying a Cherokee kit and modding it to fit the Pathfinder instead of starting from scratch.

Why not replace the transfer case gears? I have seen gear sets for the TX10 for about $1200. Expensive but reduces the gearing front and rear at the same time.

I have been thinking of the same thing, but I do not have a problem with the cheap ebay turbos. I have a friend that makes turbo kits for Polaris Razors and he told me twin very small turbos would be best for boost at lower RPM's. The smaller turbos spool faster. He also said leave the compression at stock levels since the higher exhaust pressure would spool the turbos quicker. Lower compression is for engines that will be twisted higher. Even with these two things he thinks the turbos will come up no sooner than 2000 rpm.

Have you seen this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4cElUCmLEKE Sensor relocation

Subscribed, I need to replace mine also....