neilca

Fantastic! My springs got here today. I will follow your other thread to see what lift you end up with. I will also post what I got.

Let us know if they fit. I am still waiting on mine to arrive

WOW $80 with shipping from the UK is a deal. Who is the vendor? I bought mine from Rovers North here in the US $103 for the pair shipped. I went with NRC 9447 springs which are the same but 175 lbs/in. I am expecting 2" lift over stock with these. One spring was delayed, but now both are in the mail. Probably get them this week. If anyone else wants to play you can see the selection here: http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html

Do you have a part number or source for the LED lights you used?

Thank you PibeGuerra That is exactly what I needed. So you pull the bulbs from the socket for replacement. It really helped to know where to find them. I think I will go with the LED's as well. And you don't have to remove the cables! Awesome.

I have searched here and on the web without success. So has anyone successfully replaced the lights in a manual climate control panel? The AC button light works but the fan, temperature and distribution panels are dark in my truck. I had it apart the best I could without removing the cables and I could not see any light sockets.

Gorgeous! Looks like it is being restored

I am going to return the springs. Speedway is really good on returns

I received the springs and they will not work. 4" ID, 5" OD. So that is the racing standard. I spoke with some buddies of mine who are into Land Rovers. They tell me the Defender springs are 5" ID and they come in many flavors. I am looking at PN NRC9446 and NRC9447 springs. Basically, one is 1/2 inch longer for the driver side but nominally 15" long and 175 spring rate. Collecting more information on these but it is looking good.

The ID/OD of the springs is in question because the way they are listed on Speedways web site. It is my experience that racing springs are based on the ID because they are usually going over a shock, coil overs. My shocks are KYB's and are in good shape. The rear springs are just wimpy We shall see, I ordered a set of 175 lb springs since my calculations shows it should give me a 2" lift on the rear. I also bought some new bump stops since mine are toast. More to come......

I was talking to some racing buddies last night and they thought a 5 inch spring was common with circle track racers. So I did a search and found these springs. You can get them in just about any rate you want. I was thinking of going with the 150 lbs rate. Stock I have read are 120 lbs. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Eibach-15-Inch-Rear-Racing-Springs,270.html?sku=330150-150 What do you guys think?

I am looking for rear springs.

Where can you buy the AC springs?

Is the correct PN for the OME rear springs 2922? Are these the heaviest springs?

I used the air bags on my wife's Sienna and they do not weather well and have a tendency to leak over time.

I lifted the front of my truck using 2" spacers on top of the strut. The rear I used 2.5" spacer. The stance looks good. I went to the gun club yesterday with two friends. The truck was loaded down with guns, ammo and other accessories. When we went over big bumps it felt like the rear springs where bottoming out. CLUNK!. At the end of the day and the truck was unloaded of friends and hardware the problem was decreased. I also want to use the truck for towing my race car and loading it with tools, jacks and spare parts. So I think I need heavier rear springs and I would like to have less spacer and more travel. The only springs I have found are OME heavies with a 1.75 lift. Are there any other choices?

Yes that is it. National Seal number 710398. I was able to get one from Advance Auto, by using the part number.

I am searching for a seal for the inner spindle needle bearing for a 4x4 front axle. Does anyone know the part number and/or where I can get one? Thanks,

I believe it is one US quart

That is looking really good!

Right! I replaced the bearings on this truck, the old ones looked OK but grease was black. I suspected they had never been changed in 150,000 miles. So all was good once I replaced and regreased the bearings, took it to be aligned and they said I had too much play in the bearing to align. So I take it apart, tighten the wheel bearing reassemble and find I still have play. I had tightened the bearing past where I thought it should be, lots of drag while turning, yet I still had play. I take the assembly apart to find the spindle had burn marks where the bearings ride. I slipped the inner bearing onto the spindle and sure enough there was my play. Not much but when you put a tire on it amplifies the movement. I have bought a used spindle from eBay. I an going to replace the inner bearing again. That should fix the problem. I have not seen this type failure in 30 years of working on cars. In the 1960's you would see it occasionally, but nothing recent.

Come to find out my left front spindle on my 99 4x4 has had a spun bearing. Any idea where I could find one?

Yep, every time you replace the oil filter the rack bushing gets drenched in oil. Eventually, the bushing breaks down. I am trying urethane bushings this time.

Good to have, thanks. I asked the DOT for a temporary pass but they said they do not have one to give out since my truck was not tagged last year. I don't even have a plate since I just bought it with the bad transmission.

My truck has not been on the road in the last 4 years. I now have it ready to go, but it failed the OBD pollution test. It says my computer is not ready to read. The tester said I had to drive the truck for 150 miles for the computer to read all the systems and verify they work. So I am in a catch 22 situation. I have to drive the truck 150 miles yet I cannot get a tag for the truck. Does anyone know how far a 1999 SE Pathfinder needs to be driven before a retest?