GhostPath

If you seek a WRX, but in an automatic - look at the Saab 9-2X. It's a WRX Wagon with a better interior and usually was found in automatic.

Replace the O2 sensors. IIRC, that's a three or four wire type, so it's heated. That means that the computer starts looking at it after 30-90 seconds. If the heater isn't working because of age killing it, you will get that code.

They're not all that necessary for the Pathfinder. The only reason the 4Runners have them is because the entire removable back is made out of plastic or fiberglas and has no major impact resistance.

I hope you have $50K plus, because a real R33 or R34 Skyline in ANY condition that's legally in the US is going to cost you at least that much, even not running. R33's are, however, legal to import and are relatively easy to get. The R34 is almost impossible to get in here.

I have a 90 SE and it doesn't appear to have *ever* had them. On the other hand, it is a "base" SE and it didn't come with the external carrier or the 31x10.5 tires, either.

They're the same transmission - IF the drive systems are the same. I.E., both trucks have to be 4x4, or both trucks have to be 4x2 - no mixing/matching.

I plan on installing Hella Jumbo 220s, but you might want to see this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15995

The word you're looking for there is "fluting". The DOT used to require that all glass lenses be fluted in that manner. I just bought a set of those headlights off eBay for $106 (incl. shipping), since I just discovered that my passenger side light has gotten a bullseye. I'll be installing them as soon as they get here - the original DOT lights that we got here in the US on these trucks suck. I intend to use them with some of the Osram Silverstars (not the US market semi-rice stuff, but the Euro ones which are completely different) that I'll be getting in next spring when my cousin gets back from England. Eventually, I'll be getting some HIDs to put in there - the prices have come down a lot, and I figure by next summer they'll be cheap enough that I can afford to get a set "just to see" how they do.

In terms of flow, yes. I know nothing of the R50's exhaust routing, so I won't comment otherwise...

Magnaflows don't care which way they are oriented.

Just check country of origin - Nissan will change suppliers, update designs, and such. Every time that happens, the part number will change. The guys with the L28 powered Z cars have gone through *18* part number changes, IIRC. The VG30 has had about nine. This isn't new.

Did you install new compression rods and/or bushings as well?

NO. DO NOT EVER DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This WILL damage any alternator that has a solid-state regulator!

Checked your brake fluid level?

I'm not a big fan of Flowmasters. They drone at highway speeds and just don't sound good, IMHO. Also, they're not a true straight-through design, so you're denying yourself some of the potential max horsepower available. I prefer Magnaflows - they're a straight-through no restriction design.

Well, let's see - all environmental issues aside: You will see some horsepower gains as the original old-tech catalytic converter is a restriction in the exhaust. Gains will be minor, on the order of 5-10hp at best. However, the difference in power between a straight pipe (i.e., a piece of pipe welded in place of the cat - the best possible scenario for power) and a *modern* freeflow aftermarket catalytic converter is.... ONE HORSEPOWER at most. The ticket, depending on who issues it to you, could net you up to 10 years in jail and a $100,000 fine from the Feds. Yup, it's a Federal felony now. Surprise! A freeflow cat specifically designed for our trucks costs under $75 on the open market. So, you tell me : 1. No cat and the risk of 10 years in jail and a $100,000 fine, plus your truck wouldn't pass smog plus it'd be polluting and illegal, or 2. One (or maybe less than that) horsepower less than the illegal configuration, plus your truck still passes smog, plus you aren't actually polluting, plus you're still legal but your wallet is $75 lighter. You choose. Ten years ago, catalytic converters were hard to come by and hideously expensive in addition to killing power. That's not the case any more. There is NO GOOD REASON to hollow out or remove all the cat(s) from your truck any more - and every reason not to.

Leave it naked. All header tape will do is make it rust out faster.

WD21's never carried their spare tires under the body - they can't, that's where the gas tank is. Their spare tires were either on external carriers or mounted inside next to the left rear wheelwell.

Timing belt definition: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timing_belt The timing belt is on the front of the engine under a cover. Depending on your year model, you either have to replace it every 60K or 105K. If you don't *KNOW* or have records that show your truck's belt has been done in the last interval period, you need to do it now. If you don't, the timing belt snaps and you will have to either buy a new engine or have the old one rebuilt because the pistons will slam into the valves and bend them. Nissan is NOT kidding about those intervals, the belt WILL go not long after that period. It sounds like you are a novice. I would NOT recommend that you do this until you gain more experience because doing it wrong means you have to buy another engine.

Where'd you get that pic from? I'm wondering where he got his blower....

I have a suspicion that the dealer may have changed the fluid as a matter of course before I bought it. I don't necessarily think that they were trying to cover up anything per se, I think they just changed all the fluids so as to be able to sell it with "oil changed" as a feature.

I suspect the one in my 90 is going to look very much like that when I swap it out. (Mine lost 3rd and OD on the trip home from the dealer - having been just fine on test drives and the fluid looking fine as well.)

Well, given the long run-on sentences that you use, who can be blamed for just skimming it instead of trying to read the whole thing and falling asleep in the process? Did you properly bench bleed the master cylinder before installation?

Um, have you replaced the master cylinder yet?

Um, no, carb cleaner won't get it off. The deposits are baked on. And if you're really unlucky, you just poisoned your sensors. Check your coil, cap and rotor. If that's not it, you'll need to check the position sensor in the distributor.