Alkorahil

If you did not replace the fuel filter when you did the tune up I would replace that along with the engine coolant temp sensor. I would also check the vehicle timing with a timing light. Check to see if the vacuum hose near the firewall that goes from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel pressure regulator is there/not loose/or has cracked and frayed ends. Double check after the vehicle is hot and been run around for a bit if the transmission fluid is at the proper level. But most importantly, a bad or marginally working O2 sensor will definately suck power from the truck as the ECU cannot make the proper adjustments to air/fuel mix.

So did you get the new vehicle repaired and back to new looking?

So from what I am gathering here, the AC switch comes on fine (light up green) the bloaser is not working properly. This sounds like a blower motor resistor or fan speed switch issue as they both control voltage to the blower. The most common symptom of a bad resistor is the fan will only blow on high speed no matter which of the four settings the fan switch is on which doesnt fit your issue exactly. The fan switch is a simple switch. Moving the indicator from one position to another moves the switch accross copper contact points. The higher the setting the larges the copper point the switch makes contact with. The larger the contact, the more currect can flow accross the connection. These conacts in the switch can corrode over time, reducing or even eliminating the quality of the connection and thus the amount of current that can flow across the connector leads in the switch. If you remove the instrument bezel you can pull (carefully) the face plate of the AC controller. Move the swtch to 'off'. With a flashlight you can see your switch connectors and see if they are corroded/green.

Oh that is real nice, I like that. Cross thred that thing! People should be nicer when working on somone elses property.

5W30 is the recommended weight. your owners manual has charts for extreme temp regions and their recommendations

Pull the switch. Carefully remove the connector pins from the male end blades on the switch. That will keep the alarm from arming.

You need to remove and clean your lock cylinder, that should clear that issue up. Or continued to live with it like I do because I am lazy.

If you replace the VSS make sure to get a new pinion gear for the VSS as well. This issue does make me wonder if it is just the pinion gear wearing out. Have you noticed anything strange with the speedometer readings like quick momentary jumps by the needle on the speedometer or it not reading till you get above 10MPH?

Agreed, try this. If you removed all the heat shields It may be a loose exhaust hanger somewhere underneath or as mentioned earlier a loose baffle inside the muffler.

What he said.

I would suspect the rattling in the engine is from the vehicle trying to combust water that it cannot. Have you checked the ECU for any codes?

I would to to the local auto parts store and get a bottle of fuel stabilizer like slatibartfast sugested. If it is water inteh fuel tank, one this problem is corrected and the truck is back to running properly, change the fuel filter.

PArt of the 14 page TSB they did on your truck required messing with the front ABS sensors. They may not be reconnected to the harness 100% or they could have been removed/installed incorrectly possbily damaging them. OR it is just coincidence and one of them is going out.

Plasti-dip is a good idea.

It has been my experience that the aftermaket pick up sensors that are out there for the 3.0L and 3.3L distributors last less than 3 months.

This. Check and adjust with the vehicle engine running at idle in park with parking brake on and vehicle transmission in neutral.

Yes it would but marginally, like a loss of 1 MPG or so.

Yes. Though it would be a small decline, about 1 MPG or so.

For $40,you have a spare one if that is not what is causing the issue and have ruled it out as a problem.

The most impressive one I have ever seen was a bout two years ago. The guy bought a brand new Juke, he got to the end of the main front driveway of the store after buying it, turned onto the four lane freeway service road into the far right lane and and got rear ended by a vehicle that decided at the last minute to go from the far left to far right lane into the lane he had just entered. He owned the vehicle for about 50 feet. It was totaled and IIRC had 8 miles on the odometer.

Remember to disconnect the battery or you are in for a shock! Literally. Not that I would have any personal experience or know anything about that at all.....

Goood thing checking that vacuum hose first thing! My line of thinking on this is that it may be distributor related. The camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor of the VG30e engine. When there is a big change in engine RPMs under load the ECU is not recieveing signal correctly and the engine will cut off if the ECU doenst recieve an expected signal because the ECU freaks out. Check to make sure it is correct if it is off it could cause your issue. Even if it isnt the issue it would not hurt to check and adjust if needed! You can adjust timing on the trucks. Loosen the retaining bolt that holds the distributor to the block slightly and rotate it right or left to advance or retard the engine timing. The harmonic balancer has 4 slash marks on it. They are usually hard to see on the vehicles as the paint marks have usually worn off a long tim ago. I like to take white out or white paint and fill in the four slash marks and the indicator on the block so I can see them clearly. The timing should be at 15 degrees BTDC +/- 2 degrees. For AT vehicles make sure the vehicle in in Neutral with the parking brake on. Facing the vehicle and engine bay looking down at the harmonic balancer, the four timing slash marks on the balancer are right from left: TDC (0 degrees) 10 degrees 20 degrees 30 degrees So ideally you want to be in the middle of the four timing marks.

That is awful to hear. I know the feeling. Is she ok? How bad of a collision was it and were they insured?

What he said. I have seen many repaired with a generic flat blade female connector crimped on the end of the wire. It works. I think people must pull them out chaning the oil filters.

Get a timing light and check your timing. Also, check and make sure the small hose that goes from the back of the intake plenum to the fuel pressure regulator is not loose/missing/has cracked ends. this hose is at the back of the engine near #6 cylinder.