mjotrainbrain

I had an accident which damaged the same area last winter (which led to my bumper) (although this was my fault and it was a tree, not a BMW), and I found that unless your either very lucky or have a lot of patience, things won't line up quite the way they used to. I didn't feel like paying enough to make it perfect so you can tell my fender wasn't always the right color (was tan from a junkyard QX4 then had professionally painted; didn't have old paint stripped) and the trim under the headlight is a little off, but saving money on the repair means a cooler bumper.

As others have said, take advantage of whatever you can for insurance, and take the opportunity to turn that winch mount into a full bumper! If I got into a fender bender like that I know it would just be some spray paint and nobody would every know. At least his plan didn't work out, it would really suck if you got shafted with the blame.

Maybe if the bolts were black? I like how the flares look, but I agree, all the silver bolts are a bit much.

I used some kind of black Rust-Oleum paint. I chipped/sanded the rust off with a chisel and a wire brush.

Inner and outer are different. If the wheel moves when you wiggle it the wheel bearings are probably worn out.

For those of you who have extended your diff/tranny/transfer case breathers, what did you use for a valve? From my understanding stock diff breathers have a one-way valve, is this something that can be reused with new tube? How close to the end should it be? Also, if you have pics of how you routed your hoses that would be helpful. There's not a ton of information out there specific to our vehicles, so hopefully y'all have some knowledge. I'm planning on running the rear diff to the gas cap and the front diff/tranny/transfer case into the engine bay somewhere. '

Worked on some rust repair today, started with the wheel well that was in the best shape to test the method. Turned out pretty good, hoping to have the time to do the rest of the underside. Before and after shots of course:

Looks great! The Infiniti lettering under the headlights is a nice touch.

https://www.facebook.com/johann.peralta.9

I'm a huge fan of Fleury's kit (it's what I have), but I was just putting this out here since I know I've tried to convince people to go with his kit before but they've been determined to buy the metal kit from Supreme Suspensions.

Rust is the saddest thing that can happen to a vehicle. Must be devastating to watch it deteriorate.

Thanks! The video's nothing special, I did it in one take first try so it's not the smoothest, but it goes over everything I've done to the truck pretty well (with the exception of one or two things I left for separate videos).

If you watch this video by GuitarmageddonZL1: You will see at the end that he gives out a discount code for Supreme Suspensions, who make a lift kit for the R50 Pathfinder. Not sure how much the code is good for, but hopefully it's useful to somebody!

I think Johann may have one left. You can contact him easiest on Facebook. His kit should level your truck.

Made an overview video of the truck in a scenic location. Not sure which picture I like best. Fall is coming.

Sounds like the same part to me. Hopefully that solves it for ya!

Good luck! Be careful not to let the CV come apart in the boot when installing. If either one is in decent shape, I'd suggest keeping it as a trail spare.

And now that I think about it, aren't there some hop-up parts for the VG33? If so, then you could throw a couple of those on and that 40HP difference between your options will disappear pretty quick I would think.

You mention possible power loss as the only drawback with option 1. How much does power really matter to you? I'm not sure how everything works in this situation, but if you use the VG30i intake and management, would the VG33 then put out similar (or more) power to the engine you had before? If so and you didn't mind the amount of power you had, I would absolutely suggest that route, as it sounds MUCH easier, and you get to keep that sweet manual tranny. I like the KISS method unless there's a strong reason to go with the alternative.

I don't have a WD21 so I can't help with the specifics too much, but as far as unlocking the hubs while the transfer case is in 4wd I can try to help you understand (I am assuming that is what you are supposed to do since I have no experience with that generation Pathfinder, I'm just addressing your question about the method). Now that that's cleared up, on to the explanation. Basically you've always been told (and thus have done so) that the hubs must be locked to engage 4wd. While this is true when driving, these two mechanisms are independent and as such can be operated independently (in certain non-driving situations like the one here) to achieve a desired result or perform a desired task, in this case changing a CV axle. Doing so should not cause any damage or undesireable performance, as long as you make sure to take it out of 4wd or lock the hubs before driving. If the WD21 is anything like the R50 when it come to changing CV axles (which I suspect it is) then unlocking the hub (putting it into 2wd mode) will allow you to remove the CV axle (and also insert the new one) from the hub, and locking the transfer case into 4wd will keep the end of the CV shaft that is bolted to the differential from spinning, allowing the bolts to be removed (if the front part of the drivetrain was 'limp', or in 2wd, it would likely just spin when you try to remove the bolts). When changing the CV axle on my R50 I find it easiest to lock the transfer case into 4wd and lock the hubs into 4wd, and then break the bolts attaching the CV axle to the differential free while somebody else sits in the truck and presses on the brakes (with the vehicle not running for safety reasons; the brakes will apply plenty well for this application with the truck off) to absolutely keep the CV axle from spinning, and then unlock the hubs and continue as you described. Hopefully that all makes sense!

What would be the purpose of that? I noticed them on my truck, but have no clue what they're for.

As much as I want to put more mods on my QX4, I want to keep it for a long time (maybe even forever) even more. As such, I need to address any rust issues, and preferably now than later. My truck is actually really clean except for two small holes (one each) in the strut towers (I'll probably just have them patched; don't want to take apart the engine bay until I have to) and a bigger spot in the rear driver's quarter panel. I can add a picture, but it's a hole under the fender flare which has spread into the door sill (but still outside of where it seals). This area has other issues too; there's some metal flaking on the top spring cup and the rear area of the wheel well can be squished from inside the trunk. The other side isn't like this at all, and the rest of the vehicle will be good to go with just a bit of cleanup and an undercoat. I think if I just suck it up and pay the money I'll have a solid 10+ years left in the vehicle with how 'few' miles it has and how reliable these things are. I'm having a hard time finding replacement panels though. I'm hoping to find a quarter panel and an entire inner wheel well. So far this is all I've found, and I'm not sure if it goes far enough into the door jamb to completely solve my issue. https://www.carid.com/replace/driver-side-wheel-arch-patch-rear-section-mpn-rrp3139.html?singleid=253958459&url=1030493 Does anybody know of where to get stuff? If possible I'd like to have the same fabricator who made my bumper put a new wheel well in (if he's willing) and let the expensive body shop do the quarter panel. Any related suggestions, tips, or information will be greatly appreciated, I'd love to have my truck looking new underneath before winter!

Do you think it's the same one for QX4 models too? If so that could certainly be very helpful for adding factory accessories!

You'll want to use a picture hosting site other than Photobucket. I suggest postimage.org but that aside it sounds like you've made good progress, just wish I could see the pics!