mjotrainbrain

At least you figured it out!

People have made them fit, usually involving a dremel tool I've even seen it done with the stock hubcaps used with the center carefully cut out, it looks really good if done properly.

So about that funny feeling in the front end...ball joint is bad. Really bad. Such a PITA to change...not to mention the one I got doesn't fit, because it has a zirk fitting on top, which doesn't fit with the CV. Probably destroyed the CV while getting the old ball joint out too. This was going so well, and then it started going much harder...any tips or tricks for getting a ball joint to line up while handling the heavy spindle without getting too p'd off?!?!?

That's what I'm thinking. Other than something that feels funny in the front end (which I'm thinking is alignment since I recently had to go back to regular bolts rather than camber due to snapping ANOTHER camber bolt, which I found out was due to them being installed in the top hole; apparently you're supposed to do bottom hole or risk breaking them), I feel very confident in the vehicle; the only mechanical trouble I've ever had was one O2 sensor. I've basically decided that I'm going to fix it. Let's get this rig to 250K (and not look like crap when it gets there )!

If what I saw on social media is correct, the truck has been found with only a few accessories and some gear missing.

Your story has me nervous, I had figured that after so many miles if the screws were going to come out, they would have already done it. I guess not, and now I'll have to do this job this summer now too.

Yeah, I hate that too. I've been wondering if there's necessarily anything wrong with running the bolts from the top so you don't have to take the strut apart to switch bolts?

I run a 1" spacer with my OME springs no issue. Of course mine are compressed more from the weight of the bumper, but it shouldn't be an issue anyways, since at full droop the CV's will still be at less angle than they are with people who run 2" spacers. Of course regular operating angle is what will wear them out, but you can rest easy knowing that they won't be able to bind at droop. I'd do at least an inch if I were you, it would still have good rake and sit real nice.

Well, talked to my fab guy about strut tower repair... He's talking (per side): 10-12 hours @$60/hr Nissan repair patches ($40/ea.) So, rounding up pretty heavily to make sure I don't wind up in trouble, we can say about $1000 per side, more realistically $850 if it stays on budget. That's a lot of money. But is it worth it? I'll have to decide. I'm thinking yes right now. I like the vehicle a lot, and there's nothing else really significant wrong with it. There's no way I'll find a R50 in better condition that I can afford, and any other vehicle I'll be out a ton to build it up to where my QX4 is now. &^*@ing rust.... He also mentioned maybe having to drop the subframe to do the job, so at that point maybe add a 3" SFD? It would't be very much more in fabrication or time, and the only parts I'd need is a steering shaft and u-joint as well as factory Nissan brake hoses from some other vehicle (right?), so maybe this would be a good opportunity for that? As long as it's all apart...

It's a yellow 4WD warning light. It's the same one that flashes when you're in 4-Lo. (Well, I think a light flashes, I don't use 4-Lo enough to remember, in any case, the light comes on.) I mean if it's really going to annoy you that's your own decision, but it has zero negative effects. How often are you on the highway for long periods of time? It does tend to vary from vehicle to vehicle, just like what the maximum safe lift height is...for some reason experiences tend to vary with these trucks, lol.

My light does come on during long trips (after an hour or so on the freeway), but there's no negative effect (just ignore it, lol). Make sure you put the c-clip back on right when you do the swap!

Finally took my Westin step rails off, Micah convinced me. Gotta say, it does look good. Also saw an Unimog today, which is always cool.

Well there's your answer, about as simple as it gets! Good luck with the job.

It looks so much better now, really looks great man! Wish my front end say a little higher like yours, I've got so much weight.

Thanks for that info, I'll definitely see if I can find anything about the strut tower materials! Maybe that's part of the reason why the official Nissan fix didn't involve welding... As far as the patches are concerned, I would have planned to use them like replacement panels, assuming they're thick enough. Tacking them over existing metal and rust would definitely just be a half-a+#ed bandaid at best.

Yup, avoid the KYB bearing and top plate. The ones Micah Felker had totally failed, and mine are a little clunky, although still tight (fingers crossed). OEM Nissan is the way to go. It's like the carb on a 3.3; pay for the right part, and never worry again.

I look forward to it! Infiniti wheels on this one too?

I'm definitely going to look into that! That part (installed properly, with welds and stuff) would be perfect for my passenger side, and at that price I may as well toss it on the driver's side even though the rust there is virtually nothing so far. Can't say no to new metal that isn't very expensive, as long as I'm having some stuff done.

Found the entire inner wheel well still for sale new from Nissan. $400USD per side. It's a possible option for the driver's side since it's worse, anybody know if there's any structure behind there that would need to be replaced too? In the rust damage I have I can see horizontal strips of metal, but I can't tell if they're part of the wheel well or some other inner structure.

Upon looking at the pictures in the bulletin, it looks like my truck is much better than the one pictured, at least in the area where the recall applies. My major damage is in a separate area. That being said, I still don't trust the dealer to do a good job, but I do like the look of those patches; higher quality parts than I had expected from what I'd heard. Anybody know of a way to order them? If so, I can see if my guy would like them as a starting point. The level two repair would make my passenger side like-new, and that with a bit of custom work would do the same for my driver's side.

Finally had a chance to look over that tech bulletin. It's laughable how little rust damage there has to be for them to need to retain the vehicle...flaking metal in area 2? Really? In Michigan if you're vehicle doesn't have flaky metal on the surface within 10 years we consider it like-new/zero rust, lol...Sounds like I definitely don't want to take it to the dealer, if they do what they're supposed to by what that bulletin says I'll find myself without my R50... Going to see my guy tomorrow, I'm nervous, but more excited than anything. I really want this to be behind me, at least for the front 1/3 of the vehicle...

I would get a second opinion, that's a lot of money based on one shops opinion. As far as that break, you can get tape for "fixing" exhaust and just get it patched back together good enough. If it's the secondary cats that are bad, you don't need them unless your state does inspections.

You got another?? Will this one be getting a full resto as well?

I've heard about that too! Almost makes me scared to being it in for seat belt or air bag replacement, in case they decide to peek in the wheel wells... I'll try to remember to take pics tomorrow for ya. They're actually not bad at all (although I'd like to get a 3" SFD to mimic hawairish's setup so it sits more level).

That's a really cool pic, rig looks tough! You should definitely throw it in for truck of the month some time.