mjotrainbrain

Got it stuck.

Why would you use 4H with the hubs unlocked? And I assume the 4L is for extra torque to maneuver? I believe he was talking about shifting while driving, but that is a good thing to point out, it's fine to use at low speeds if you shift while relatively stationary. Just probably not a good idea while going 40mph or something.

I used to have a binder clip which I labeled "HUBS" that I clipped to the 4wd switch when the hubs weren't locked, it would keep people from turning it without at least wondering what that meant. It was a little difficult to get it to stay on due to the shape of the switch so I don't use it anymore, but it's an idea.

Yeah, that's the one real big concern. Luckily everybody who would drive my truck has been taught or is a truck person who knows how it works.

Yep, as Slartibartfast said, no more worries than a regular t-case truck. Simply don't use anything other than 2wd with hubs unlocked, and do as you please when the hubs are locked.

Looks good, the switches match well!

To add to my comment, the stock hubs can be thought of as manual hubs that are always locked. If you have manual hubs and leave them locked all the time, your vehicle will operate exactly like stock. The issue with R50's with AUTO-mode t-cases is that sometimes, when the hubs are unlocked and you're in 2wd, the 4wd warning light will come on. I don't think anybody has figured out what it means, but it's nothing bad. I figure it's just some sensor for the auto system getting a little freaked out that the front drivetrain parts aren't turning. It's not damaging to the vehicle at all.

I think there's a pretty huge overcomplication of manual hubs in the Pathfinder community for some reason. Hawairish and RainGoat's explanations totally hit the nail on the head, but to make it extremely simple: HUBS LOCKED: Exactly the same as stock. You can do everything you normally would - 2H, AUTO, 4H, and 4L. HUBS UNLOCKED: ONLY use 2wd. Pros of manual hubs: -reduced wear and tear on front drivetrain components (particularly CV's) -ability to unlock hubs and ignore damaged CV's until it is convenient for you to fix them -marginal fuel economy gains -lighter steering feel Cons of manual hubs: -slight inconvenience in having to lock hubs before using any mode other than 2wd -potential for somebody else who's using your vehicle to use a mode other than 2wd while hubs are unlocked -they don't quite fit with some wheels without modification -technically weaker than stock (although the only ones I've heard of breaking are David Donnely's, and he hit his against a rock) Hope that makes it simple.

I have an '02 with the auto-mode t-case. You can use the manual hubs just fine. If you have the hubs locked you can use all of the functions as normal, even auto mode. Just remember that if the hubs are unlocked you can ONLY have the transfer case in 2wd.

Not a bad price! Hopefully the Pathfinder doesn't stump him. Good luck!

Yeah, I tried those sizes but nothing seemed to fit quite right, probably because the head wasn't really hex shaped anymore! I've decided that for the bumpstops I'm just going to leave the bolt there (it's not going anywhere even if I want to to anyways), and I'll put generic ones on the lower spring seat, and make sure to add a few little drainage holes around it. Should work equally well, and it'll save me a lot of work.

This has caused a lot of confusion over the years. It turns out that isn't true, it all came from somebody making a mistake and reading a diagram wrong. On AUTO t-case models the light does come on sometimes, but there's no ill effect to putting manual hubs on an AUTO-mode R50, just make sure to lock them any time you're not in 2wd!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/44096-if-you-havent-downloaded-your-fsms-better-do-it-soon/?hl=service

If they're still available, check out the FSM, maybe it has some details about the procedure.

2 updates: 1. Found pretty bad rust right where the "frame rail" intersects the crossmember that the panhard is bolted to. Going to clean it up, paint, and have a t-shaped patch welded in. Should be fairly well fixed pretty easily. 2. Factory bump stop situation is not going to happen. Going to get generic auto parts store ones and mount them to the lower spring perches.

Looks like all the generic bump stops thst auto parts stores sell have the stud built in, and I highly doubt any of them are 8x1.25, so I guess we'll see if I can botch the stock ones back on!

Ah, so it is supposed to be 13! I guess my initial efforts with a 14 probably didn't help. This should have been an easy job, thanks rust and dry rubber. And yeah, sitting here covered in grease, dirt, and a lot of dust, as I'm taking breaks from the frustration by attacking rust with an angle grinder!

And of course the bolt's head rounded off...

Nevermind, the whole bumpstops just broke right off! Crap.

Anybody know what size the head is? Can't seem to figure it out by feeling around, and found nothing online.

I've noticed that, how strange! 😂

How strange. I really should start hosting my own pictures somehow.

That's always the worst! They mystery clunk! I gave up on mine. Threw parts at it and it got quieter, good enough.

This pic doesn't seem to show up on my phone. Can anybody else not see it? Really sick of trying to find a way to get pics on the forum. Imgur seemed like such a good option. Could have just been the Wendy's wifi I was using though, no idea.

You guys need to stop talking about how great these springs are, I don't need to redo my rear suspension again! Glad they're working out for y'all, when I need a little more rear height to compensate for a bumper this is the route I'll be going.