03TroutFinder

Thanks! I got the ball joint changed out this morning and #1 did do the trick. Had to order the right hammer for the job though! Note that I was able to remove it without fully removing the CV though. There were a couple of YT videos showing how to do it-Although they were a bit shotty! Removed my manual hub assembly and washer so the CV could travel. Pushed the knuckle forward to get just enough space to remove the Ball Joint. Not sure if this is a time saver, but figured I would share. My negative camber issue still remains though. When I got it all back together, the camber was sitting true, but once I took it o for a spin. The negative camber came back. My initial thought was a bent strut, but someone in one of my other post said it may be the LCA, so I went ahead and changed it out. Still the same issue with the negative camber. Would the Strut be the next place to start to identify the issue? They are Rancho struts with OME shocks for about a 2-2.5” lift. No spacers any longer when I went to the OME shocks.

Finally got around to changing the LCA to correct some negative camber caused from some semi aggressive wheeling. It seemed to have corrected the camber, but I also ordered a lower ball joint to change out since I had it all torn apart. I can’t for the life of me remove it though. I reviewed a few YT videos and they simply just remove it once the axle is slid out enough to get the room. Mine is apparently ceased or pressed very tight. I’ve used a ball bearing separator & press with no luck. it does appear that someone had either replaced it before or lost the castle nut at some point since it had a huge nut on this side(passenger). The drivers side has the correct castle nut. Any ideas on how I can get this joker removed? I’ve definitely compromised the existing one obviously by trying to remove it as a significant amount of grease has leaked out.

Not sure if this is the same issue, but mine did that at times going down the highway. Only happed a few times over the course of a year, but ended up being the crankshaft position sensor. No issues since I changed it out. Cheap and easy to change out. I believe mine went bad due to getting exposed to wet conditions like creek crossings, etc.

Can’t answer your specific question, but I continued to receive messages, mail flyers, etc regularly for over a year or two. Nissan ended up sending someone directly to my house-They gave a courtesy call first-to change them out. The guy showed up within a few minutes of making the call so I’m sure he was staged up the street to make the call. Point is, based on my experience if your vehicle was impacted, you’d be fully aware.

Should be no issue. I’ve carried a truck on a 15ft trailer nearly 800 miles. Just keep it around 60-65mph. Don’t drive like you normally would with no load. When I did that it was fine. When I started to get north of 70mph constant for a significant period of time, it wasn’t too happy with me and let me know it. Got just a tad warmer than normal and went into safe mode. Let it rest for about 30 minutes at a gas station and we were back in business.

Mines been this way since I bought it about 6-7years ago! it had just under 1/4 tank when I bought it. I test drove it for quite a bit so it was warmed up and went through the gears rigorously including 4wd. All checked out so I bought it and headed down the way. About 5 minutes later it started sputtering really bad and I got P’OD something bad and the seller wasn’t answering his phone which made me even more upset. He did call me back and ended up following me to the gas station to fill it up. Never a problem since now that I know that when I’m hits the 1/4 line, I better start looking for fuel. I now use the mileage meter as my gauge and have a Jerry can on board just incase! My guess is the fuel warning light it tied to the arm placement and nothing else. Mine never comes on except for the few times it’s done as the previous post mentions where it will drop to the bottom while driving for a period of time and come back up. While it’s down at the bottom, the light comes on. Otherwise, I never see it because my truck is slap empty at right about 1/8 of a tank on the meter. still get between 325-350 miles per tank regardless as long as I’m not hauling anything. my gauge arm also never goes above 3/4 of a tank either. Just something over had to adjust to when driving it-which unfortunately is extremely rare!

Lol, naw but I guess it may be helpful to add in my setup for additional insight. Rancho 5000 strut w/ OME HD lift springs. Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Ok NPORA family, dusting this thread off to show that I DID try to research my issue before posting a new thread, but I still would like more current input from the pro's on here. The pic is kind of hard to tell, but my passenger side has developed a slight negative camber. It occurred after an off road adventure awhile back. Another issue worth noting is that when I took the front spacers off and drove it, the steering became increasingly erratic. Very much like the lower ball joint not being intact causing random pull. With the spacers on, this specific issue is not a concern. Not sure why the spacers matter with this issue. The steering has become more loose overall and has a slight "wiggle" in the steering wheel, hence why I'm doing a complete steering/suspension overhaul of original parts. To the question at hand, based on your experience do you think I bent my strut when wheeling? Are there any other things that I should consider before forking out for a new strut assembly. And since I will already be doing a complete overhaul of the entire front suspension already. Are there any brands that would be better than others for replacement parts? Thanks in advance for any insight provided! Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Got the brakes bled, made a more permanent mount for the pop charger filter, and strapped up the recovery tracks I ordered awhile back. Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Strapped on the recovery tracks! Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Brakes all the way around today. First time doing drum brames. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Tomorrow, going.to have to bleed the brake lines i think. Still a lot of play in the pedal. Also will figure out these camber bolts for the passenger side to level the camber and hope to finally fabrocate the small spacers up front to level out the front end a little bit more. Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

I subbed! Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Nice! Thanks for sharing. Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Thanks Bro! I may need to go check that place out. Need to change my back window out. It has some metal that partially melted in it from cutting metal and the sparks were flying into it! No telling what else I may need though. Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Completely agree. Truly a hidden(well, not so much anymore!) gem. I really enjoy venturing up into NC as well, being its just over a hour away. But they are pretty strict right now with Covid, so I don't want to risk it right now. There's still plenty in N. GA I have yet to explore anyhow.... Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Joy riding through North GA...... Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

Got the crankshaft position sensor changed out. Cranks right up again now! @onespiritbrain, thanks for offering to help. When I went under to check it out, it was right there wide open for me. Took literally less than a minute. I did check to see how I could try to do a transfer case drop however. Going to start on the 1/2" spacers for the front to level it out a little more. I would feel much better if I could drop the transfer case by the same amount to mitigate the cv axle binding concerns. Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

I’m gonna take that offer! Lol I’ll probably order one soon. Trying to decide if I want to get an aftermarket one of OEM. Leaning towards OEM even though is nearly 10x the cost. That creek crossing incident got me a little skittish now when solo. I was pretty deep in the woods. Feel pretty fortunate I was able to drive out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

May be a slight leak or low on coolant. Not my Pathy, but had this similar issue on another car and it just needed some coolant added. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m leaning towards the starter too. Nice find. Hope it all works out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Bud! Appreciate the reply. Looks like I’ll be replacing it here soon then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, so I got a code scanner and here are the codes that were showing: PO550-Power steering pressure sensor/switch circuit-opener shorted to ground. PO725- 1: Select Actuator circuit 2: Engine speed input circuit PO335- 1: Crankshaft position sensor/circuit 2: Engine speed sensor circuit failure. I cleared the codes and drove the truck around to town and back for about 30 minutes or so. The engine light didn’t come back on and the intermittent missing over 2500 rpms didn’t occur(this happened to me last week going down the interstate). From reading about the intermittent miss firing, it was apparently in limp or safe mode? I also ran the engine with the code scanner in live mode there were no issues identified. PO550 was the most recent, and also had the most detail about the importance to address when scrolling through the reader. The truck still doesn’t crank immediately like it was prior to my creek crossing incident. Does anyone have an idea of what I may need to check to see why this is happening? Assuming it’s a spark issue potentially? Also, are any of the above codes a big deal that need to be addressed immediately if they come back up in the near future? Again, Thanks in advance for any support. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reaching out for some insight into the problem if anyone has had a similar situation before. I’ll start with about a month ago, I was pulling a trailer across the state and about and hour and a half in, under slightly higher RPM’s than the engine typically revs constantly the engine cut out on me on the interstate. It did a similar thing as another member mentioned where the engine stalled and the gauges went ok crazy and stuff. I put the tranny in neutral as the vehicle was coasting and got it cranked back up. After it cranked back up, no other issues occurred except the engine light came on and is still in now. Any idea on what code this may be? Fast forward to this past week, I went joy riding last Thursday and the truck stalled on me as I was backing back through a creek. I got it cranked back up, but now when I start the truck, it takes several seconds to crank, sometimes takes multiple attempts. Before this, it cranked immediately every time without fail, like clockwork. Between these times and maybe 1-2 times before the trailer pulling incident, the truck has stalled on me as I was driving down the road. Weird, but I’ve been lucky so far as it always has cranked up. I’ll also add that I changed out the normal filter compartment to a pop charger type setup awhile back which I feel may be part of the intermittent stalling problem. I’ll be switching back to OEM once I figure out a way to make a dry setup without a snorkel. Any assistance to point me in the right direction for troubleshooting would be helpful. Thanks in advance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is great.....my question is which one of the three is the donor?!?!? They all look fairly nice & complete to me! There’s a QX-4 that’s been sitting on the side of the interstate up here for seemingly 2-3 weeks at least. Maybe@onespiritbrain and I need to do something similar, lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

.